Anyone did this when the car was already lowered?
What did you end up doing, raising your car or undoing the top bolts on the suspension?
Fender roller (Eastwood) I have doesn't fit under the fender, car is too low.

 

Mine were done at the same time. The car was up on jackstands while rolling. It shouldn't matter if you're lowered or not, because the car doesn't have to be on the ground to have the fenders rolled. In fact, the wheel is off when you do it, so the car shouldn't be on the ground anyway.

Unless you mean something else by the car being "too low," then I'm confused. Actually, I'm confused either way. The roller should be adjustable to fit the distance from your hub to your fender.

 

I see yours "was done", obviously by somebody else. So please, no experience yourself, move on. You have too many posts already, no need to increase them anymore

 

the roller should be adjustable by the angle. i lowered mine with coils on. it is a pita to get it started but once you do it will just all come together nicely

 

Huh? I was there and watched the whole thing from beginning to end - it was a 16hr day, 4-5 of which were just the fender rolling. The coilovers were already on the car, and that had no effect on the fender roller, so I am trying to help you figure out how to get the job done.

Just trying to help. Your reaction was not warranted. Why would I need to have physically done it myself to help you? That's senseless as is your reference to my # of posts.

 

I played with the angle and there's also an extra hole on the tool allowing me to move the arm slightly forward/back and I couldn't get it to fit under the lip. It was under too much of an angle to do the job properly. I had both rear wheels in the air so that I don't get the sway bar compression effect but I guess it's either Eastwood tool is too large or the springs/shocks hold the hubs too close.
I'll probably end up just loosening the top bolts since I don't feel like redoing the alignment at this time.

 

you should be able to adjust the angle of the whole roller and the angle of just the roller. i have this same tool and lowered about 2.5 or 3 inch and had no prob.well a little getting started then i was good.

 

The Eastwood roller worked fine on my car?

 

I'll try and make a picture next time I do this, unfortunately my wife took the camera when she went to Europe

Unlike the picture above (seems like stock shocks), my problem was that the hub is so far up that I had to change the angle of the roller wheel just to get it under the fender and that's with the extendable arm completely down. Above it seems like sponge bob had to even extend it a bit.
Then as I change the angle of the whole tool, the roller wheel goes further away from the lip so that didn't buy me anything. I needed the hub about 2" further down to make it work perfectly.
If it matters, I'm on Megans and I really have no space under the rear fender when the car sits on tires. I can barely push my finger under the fender and even that's under an angle.

 

what you do is angle the whole tool back and extend the arm up to touch the fender. just like in above pic, once you get the fender to start rolling then it will be a lot easier to get a nice conection with the fender

 

Did you guys use a heat gun in the process?

 

yes, i bought one from a local parts store

 

Sometimes the coilovers will reduce suspension travel so that even with the car off the ground and the suspension at "full droop," you won't have very much lowering of the wheel. That might be the problem you are having that no one else is. You might want to try jacking up the car, supporting the lower control arm with a jack, and then removing the top nuts under the hood so that when you lower the jack (slowly!) you can get a little more travel out of the front suspension. So long as you don't lower it so much that the top studs actually pass down through the holes under the hood, the assembly should stay put. There is a tiny amount of adjustability in the slack for those studs, so you might very slightly throw off your camber/toe, but I don't think it's enough to worry about. Does that make sense?

 

SoR: I think I understand your issue now; your shocks must have a very short rebound stroke and therefore holding the suspension high in its travel. I think the easy solution would be to do as you have already suggested and unbolt the upper shock mount. Obviously you’ll have to support the hub assembly somehow.

Blackonblackevo: I used a heat gun to warm the paint, it worked well until I pushed the fender lip to a very extreme angle and eventually I shipped the paint in a few areas. None of the paint chips are visible and therefore easy to touch up as appearances on the inside of the fender are a none issue, (at least for me).

 

Thanks guys