^ a bunch of Aussie guys are using this method... works well
I'm very close to setting this up myself actually, using GSR parts on my MR.
and now that the ICS code is all sorted out it's a fully automatic system controlled by the ECU

 

Glad to hear others are using the intercooler sprayer down under .

Anybody know if the USDM ECU is able to handle the intercooler sprayer function using the JDM Intercooler sprayer?

 

i'm gonna post this later under diy, but here it is on my own web page--might be useful to you guys:

http://www.st1g.com/evo_transmission...fying_oem.html

basically i removed the fog lamps, augmented the stock baffle to direct more air (the cooler is offset from the inlet, and i thought this would help a lot), and cut more holes into the fender liner.

just got back from Laguna Seca, and I never got the "transmission overheating, slow down" message. however, the transmission did miss a few shifts near redline a couple times in later runs of the day. i think using minimal manual shifting, this could work enough for a 20min run. good enough for me, for now.

 

that is pretty sweet, I will do that next time I take off my bumper

edit: My fender line vents for the SST isn't blocked up like your's, weird...

 

nice mod. the air guide is sitting around somewhere and will do this mod, thx for the pix and the detailed write up stg1.

i might consider upgrading to a single larger oil cooler instead of adding 1 more cooler. time for some measurements

 

Don't know how to help you but the car looks badass at the track

 

yeah, i had a chance to check out '08 gsr, '08 mr, and '10 gsr (mine's a '10 mr). turns out all the '08's already have holes in the liner. not sure why, but it seems in '10 they blocked them off. anyway, i guess if they had vents from the factory before, it's safe to say adding vents to a '10 should draw air out, and therefore a good thing to do.

fyi, update:

so, last weekend i went out to Willowsprings, to do Streets. was about 90-95deg, so pretty hot. somewhere around lap ~7-10 down the straight, going ~90-100mph, when rpms hit ~5-6k, i hear the fuel cutoff pinging. i guess those rpms being peak hp area, the clutches are slipping. anyway, that only happened in that one section, so i started going part throttle and braking later to make up for time. then ~10 laps, if i continue to go hard, the "transmission overheating slow down" message would pop on.

this is all with the whole ayc/a?c off, super sport mode, manually shifting only when i must (if there's a section that i would have only shifted up for 1-2s before going back down, i left the gear and held in redline.) short shifted @ 6k rpm max. since it was a super hot day, i expect if temps were ~80 instead of ~95, i would be able to do many more laps. also Streets has very few long straights. i think given a track with more speed and straights the transmission would have longer to cool, with more air going through the cooler.

so, for me, this is "good enough." not optimal, and ovviously not getting me my best lap times. but good enough to have some fun and not void my warrantee.

 

Installed the SSP front mount cooler, removed the foglights, and changed to fresh stock diaqueen SSTF. Took the car to Thunderhill yesterday. Ambient temp was 93 F, total of 150min of driving spread throughout 7 sessions.

1) NO SLOWDOWN WARNING. There was another MR there with a reflash and foglight delete. That driver was still getting the slowdown warning. Foglight delete is not sufficient.

2) Temperature. Hit a peak temp of 123 C (253 F). Most of the time temps were in the 118-120 C range. The greatest thing about the SSP cooler is that between runs you can keep the pump and fan going to really cool things back down. Temps would go back down to 68 C by the time the next run came around. If you don't track the car, DO NOT waste your money on a cooler. The highest temps I get driving around is 72 C. The tranny really heats up in track situations. 'Spirited driving' doesn't count. Don't waste your time or money.

3) SSP cooler with stock fluid is sufficient to prevent slowdown warning light

 

that's awesome man. is your car making more hp than stock?--if so how much? my car is at about 300whp, and i found that before the warning comes on, i already have problems with the clutches holding. i would be going down a long straight flooring it in 4th or 5th gear, and when the car gets to around 5-6k rpm, all of a sudden it would be banging against the rev limiter!!! and the rpm gauge doesn't really show it--the needle vibrates a little, but i don't see it swing all the way to the right or anything. but at that point, mashing the pedal will keep getting the rev limiter, so i usually have to go 1/2 throttle at that point. and all this time there would be no warning light. if i keep going hard, then the light comes on after a few more laps. anyone else get this? i figure when the fluid gets too hot the clutches can't hold anymore?

edit: nm, saw you have in your sig your hp, ha ha. looks like a very similar build to mine.