So yeah, i have a new 15 mr and i was told about the clutch slippin issue and thus is driving it in s-sport manual.

for DD, i try to keep it under 3k so no turbos at all, and be generally gentle with it.

now the question is, i found that it is extremely smooth if i changed up around 2k rather than 3, almost like normal mode driving.

is that actually negating the whole using s-sport mode or is that keeping higher pressure and minimizing slip while producing a smoother ride?

i have also heard people saying keeping it under 2k in the 5th or 6th gear is a bad idea? they should be kept above 2k and near 3k if possible? or is that hogwash? i heard it more talked about for RA converted to have s-sport mode but...

 

What you are doing is fine. Keeping it in S-sport has more to do with slipping at WOT than normal driving around. Shift it wherever you feel like it. The transmission doesn't care.

 

hmm so i can put it into s / sport off the bat (without warming up) or keep it in normal then s sports after temps hit the middle bit and a few miles?

how does s/sports affect the other parts of the car? I tried normal + manual and it seems to not shift as aggressively, the fuel is not cut off immediately and then shifted, would s/sports put more strain on other parts of the system

and would the reason why people worry more about the clutch be more about the fact that engine rebuilds / upgrades for them is common and clutch / tranny being the bigger issue since they don't touch those often?

 

It is counter intuitive, but you are more likely to damage a clutch from overheat in a cold transmission than a hot one. I am pasting this from another forum. If you look hard enough you can find it.

I've decided to make a thread to compile & consolidate the do's and don'ts for the SST. Please feel free to add anything to the thread and I will update the first post.

The first list comes from Kozmic

Maximize life of your SST. Do the following.

1. When possible idle car in neutral.

Reduces clutch wear by reducing pressure when idling


2. Do not launch car when transmission temperature is below 70C.

Launching places extreme loading on the clutch pack and when transmission is not up to ideal operating temperature it will cause more wear on clutches


3. Do not WOT the car if transmission below 50C.

Same logic as #2


4. If you can't resist doing item 2 and 3, do so in S-Sport

Super Sport reduces clutch slip reducing clutch wear when not at ideal temp


5. Do not over cool transmission. If running non temperature controlled coolers, turn them off for street use.

Over cooling can reduce ideal operating temperature causing clutch wear. The clutch pack operates within an ideal operating temperature window **need ideal temperature**


6. If car exceeds 350tq (DJ) dont WOT in normal or sport.

Same logic as #4, an aftermarket clutch pack is recommended beyond 350 ft-lbs of torque.


7. Allow transmission to warm up in normal or sport mode at least occasionally.


8. Do not run aftermarket fluid.

Aftermarket fluid has been shown to cause the clutch pack to wear prematurely.

9. Replace the fluid and filter on severe service interval. Change at 10kmi if car is tracked and regular service intervals if car is a daily driver.

Replacing the fluid is "cheap" insurance against having any severe clutch or transmission damage


10. If engine exceeds OEM torque by more than 10%, adjust ECU so TCU knows. Items 1 through 9 cause more damage than not doing item 10. Adjustments must be made so the TCU is aware that the transmission is making more torque than stock, otherwise it will slip the clutches too much during shifts. Cranking the requested torque tables up too much will slow shift time, however.

Clutch Pressure Ramp Up should also be adjusted within reason, but as basically a gain control table, it does not actually *do* a whole lot to increase clutch pressure, only how quick it ramps up.


Update 12/19/14
1. Do not tow anything.


Update 1/5/15
I've mentioned this elsewhere, but you should consider using Normal for freeway cruise. SST Normal mode, there is almost no slip in 5th and 6th gear anyway. Also, while cruising in 6th gear Normal, SST will just leave inactive odd gear train in neutral to save fuel and reduce noise. Even if you go on-off-on-off with the acc pedal, the inactive gear stays in neutral. Compared to cruising in 6th gear (Manual) S-Sport, SST will toggle the inactive gear between neutral and 5th every time you apply-lift the accelerator.

Update 1/8/15
Driving in Super Sport will save you clutches do not drive in Normal as often as possible.

 

right but this is only for the sst, maybe its the wrong forum but what about the impact on the rest of the car? IE I can feel the engine getting cut harshly even when shifting at low speeds and rpms.

I guess if I intend to drive it hard off the bat s/sport from cold, but then if not just do normal / manual and stay under 3k and it should be good until warmed up.

 

The rest of the car could care less how you shift it so long as you try and stay off the rev limiter.

 

cool thanks

i guess it is designed to take that as a longevity, maybe not if it gets tuned or more bolt ons are added but should be fine normal then.

 

If you are on anything even close to the stock turbo you don't have anything to worry about with the rest of car that wasn't going to break already anyhow.

Keep the fluids changed. Change your fuel pump relay often, take care of it the way you should, don't let an inexperienced tuner tune it, and stay away from cheap off brand parts, and the car will be happy.

 

fuel pump relay?

um aren't those supposed to be fixed in the newer ones or is it still a problem?

also when am i supposed to switch them out?

and is there an image or video showing where it is / where i need to check?

 

Google "Evo X Fuel Pump Relay". Select images. It will be one of the first two images.

The cars still ship from the factory with the same crappy relay they always have. Not sure what's up with that.

 

O.o umm well how do I know if it runs lean? Would torque pro know or would it need an actual cable and download the data to analyze after?

i guess

http://www.sspperformance.com/evo-x-...y-package.html

would do?

and are any of the stock ones good? or is it replace asap thing? i will open it up and see what I get.

Does this void the warranty? Or some other BS because it is part of the fuel relay and what nots.

 

You would have no idea unless you have an AFR gauge installed on the car. This is why replacing the relay on a regular interval is important.


Absolutely not. The MR122409 relay is a genuine OEM relay and is specifically called out for in the TSB that drives multiple relay changes in the car.

List price for the MR122409 is around $8.50

 

and nobody, including Mitsubishi, bothered to develop a replacement? or for third parties to find one (IE hey this relay for the outlander, the 2009 honda accord, or some random electronics) that works and is better and lasts for a long time?!

 

The MR122409 is the replacement. It is manufactured by Omron most of the time. It is another existing relay from the Mitsubishi parts catalog, and the bag is usually labelled power window relay or something like that. I can no longer recall what the original OEM part numbers were, but this part number is the 4th revision for this relay p/n if you count the original installed relay and the two previous part numbers.

 

but if it lasts only 6 months...

and worse for a modern car, failure without warning or indication except massive engine failure...

oh well, every 6 months isn't too bad, and i shouldn't mess up the replacement too badly...