when they refer to brake fade?
Basically you'll get a "longer" pedal as your brakes heat up. Eventually this can turn into less braking force, rather than just requiring more effort to get the same amount of braking. This is often solved (if the problem isn't too severe) with some additional cooling, changing pads, and new rotors (or some combo of those.) If the braking on the car is especially bad, then a whole new setup can be the fix.
As the brake pads heat up, the heat transfers to brake fluid where it causes the pedal to feel spongy.
Use better pads (though they will be noisier during street use) sloted rotors, and good fluid. Adding air ducts to the back of the rotors would help.
Use better pads (though they will be noisier during street use) sloted rotors, and good fluid. Adding air ducts to the back of the rotors would help.
it's when you're doing 120 mph at a track, and you need to stop, but you've already done 3 laps and your car starts to not brake as fast as you started from the first lap.
in this case, I've found out, if you pump your brake in interval in hard pressure, it helps slow the car down faster than just sitting there with your foot on the brake hoping it'll stop eventually.
in this case, I've found out, if you pump your brake in interval in hard pressure, it helps slow the car down faster than just sitting there with your foot on the brake hoping it'll stop eventually.
so good brake pads and better fluids and probably new ss brake lines. would help out a great deal. I would like to get new rotors, but from what i hear ours work very well, untill you spend big buck for some top rotors
stock rotors work fine, but its critical to get the right pads and fluids. one thing i could add is that the racing pads are designed to work best at temp, not on the first two laps, or certainly during street use, although for most all street applications, the braking force of racing pads even cold is plenty. (just may take a little more foot pressure when cold)
generally, even when red hot, the brakes should work fine, even with a soft pedal, meaning you need a little more pressure. fade is rare and either means you have a lot air in the system and the pedal is spongy, but failure, or real fade, means other things are going wrong. sometimes the brake booster is too small to give the right assistance and needs to be increased as far as vacuum capacity.
vented, slotted and/ or drilled seems to help too. ducting will help the rotors from cracking under high temp, racing use.
generally, the pads are the weak link. ive raced a little heavier 928 , with less power than i have now, with the old 1979 style porsche brakes which looked like small hockey pucks. the right pads, however, allowed me to have good stopping power, but my leg was tired at the end of the race! (and the pedal was soft)
Mk
generally, even when red hot, the brakes should work fine, even with a soft pedal, meaning you need a little more pressure. fade is rare and either means you have a lot air in the system and the pedal is spongy, but failure, or real fade, means other things are going wrong. sometimes the brake booster is too small to give the right assistance and needs to be increased as far as vacuum capacity.
vented, slotted and/ or drilled seems to help too. ducting will help the rotors from cracking under high temp, racing use.
generally, the pads are the weak link. ive raced a little heavier 928 , with less power than i have now, with the old 1979 style porsche brakes which looked like small hockey pucks. the right pads, however, allowed me to have good stopping power, but my leg was tired at the end of the race! (and the pedal was soft)
Mk
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