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How to spin out in an 03?

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Old May 13, 2006 | 10:42 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by tweekscratch
Sorry tepid, but you really haven't provided much help here at all. generally you hijacked the thread and have managed to completely miss the point of the question.

You mark your camber plates and toe rods after the car has been aligned. Then when it comes time, you jack the car up, loosen the camber plate bolts and mash the tops in to where you want them (some testing required to find the right place), and then tighten things back.

Following good procedure, you should change only one thing at a time and determine its effect. Increasing neg. camber on my car dropped my times by .5 seconds. The next step will be to adjust the toe.
right. You're smashing the camber in. But you ARE or ARE NOT adjusting the toe after you do this?

Are your camber plates the only thing you change before/at an event? If so, when you do it, you're throwing your toe compeletely whack. Thats what i've tried to ask, and say a few times.

Camber isn't a huge issue to leave, Toe is.
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Old May 13, 2006 | 04:07 PM
  #47  
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First: thank you warmpepsi for making me get off my lazy @ss and take some actual measurements on my setup, even though this thread originally had nothing to do with car setup. It was about driver setup.

In normal street prep my car has 1/32” of toe in. Then I push the tops in on the plates. Guess how “OUT OF WHACK” my toe is then? Go ahead, guess.

3/32” of toe in. This is what you guys consider out of whack? Okay.

Take a Dail-In school or something. This isn’t black magic. Your car won’t break b/c you fiddle with the suspension dials. If you mess it up take the car back to the shop and they’ll set it back for you. Maybe they will even show you how to set the dials if you ask nicely.

Yes: you need to know what you are setting up for. A road course setup is completely different than an autocross setup. You even have different setups for different surfaces, temperatures, etc. These different setups add about twenty minutes to your prep if you figure out what you are going to use before hand.

Ultimately though, the drive is more important. Take two EVO’s w/ the same setup. One dialed in like mine and one that doesn’t have “OUT OF WHACK” toe. Put in my car an experienced skilled driver and put in the other an average driver. Guess who wins?

Bad drivers try to blame their lack of performance on the car. Sorry. That was their lack of performance. I can go buy an ELISE today, it won’t make me a better driver. Just an average driver with back problems. Go put a track mate system in your car and have a coach point out all your screw ups. You can overcome a tiny bit of it by tuning the car.

A skilled driver is going to adapt to whatever you give him (or her) and be able to get 100% out of the car no matter what. An average driver is going to need the car tuned just to get 70% out of it.
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Old May 13, 2006 | 04:53 PM
  #48  
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dude, get off the high horse.

We're all equals dude, no need to pull any high and mighty crap, we're all enthusiasts, EVO drivers, and enjoy motorsports.

No, your car isn't gonna break, if you run the wrong settings, but you're trying for the most, so i figured you'd set it up, for the most.

Originally Posted by tweekscratch
One dialed in like mine and one that doesn’t have “OUT OF WHACK” toe. Put in my car an experienced skilled driver and put in the other an average driver. Guess who wins?
Well, no kidding an experienced driver is going to get more out of a car, but isn't the idea to make a setup better? Meaning that an average driver with a better setup (you) could do as good as an experienced driver, in a lesser setup. I thought thats what the whole idea was.

I wouldn't term myself "experienced" and it sounds like you're similiar. Have about the same experience through a dozen or so track events in the last few years.

Since you brought it up, i'd prefer an exige, but they're not the end all either. A traqmate is a great tool, and if you'd like to see some logs, i'd be glad to show you, it doesn't take brain science to figure those out either

I'll do my best to keep any talk of motorsports out of your way/threads from now on though.
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Old May 13, 2006 | 05:12 PM
  #49  
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i do the same camber adjust at the track myself but i measured how much i needed to adjust toe to run my "track" setting when we first setup the allignment on the car.
i know i need one full turn in on the tie rod for toe out when i add the extra camber. very repeatable.
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Old May 13, 2006 | 05:16 PM
  #50  
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I actually adjust my camber at the track,but I have the car marked, both toe rods and camber plates. And for reference, going from -1.8 to -3.0 is worth @.7 seconds per lap at Little Talladega. I tested this last time Iwas there. This track is smaller, so I would 'suspect' on a larger course, this may be a bit under-stated. However, your results may vary .

Also, what was said, is true about drivers, except one small fact. Good drivers don't have poorly equipped cars, because they know how to set them up. I change my setup for each track,and based on weather, will tweak even more. HOwever, what I tell all my students is to go with a 'proven' setup, and just work on driving. They shouldn't be too concerned at this point with anything as specific as cornerweights etc.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 07:46 AM
  #51  
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Pepsi, there is no high horse here, simply impatience. You and several other people are obsessed with car setup. Three or four people (too lazy to go back and count) managed to respond to my actual question.

Keep in mind: I’m talking about autocross. Car setup is probably only worth about .5 seconds on a course (S&TF states his setup is only worth .7s on a road course). In my region I’m going to have to be a lot faster to make that .5 seconds mean anything. Further, a faster more experienced version of me will probably use different settings than what I’m using now.

What I didn’t state earlier (b/c I wasn’t talking about setup) is that I’m following a process as I’m making these adjustments. My next event will add setting the toe on the front of the car along with the camber setting I used at the last event. Once I have that right the car will be dialed in to me. At least until I get the 9K springs for the rear. At which point I’ll have to start over b/c that will change the car’s behavior.

The Exige is a very cool car. I’ll be getting an orange Elise with the sports package next year simply b/c it is $10K cheaper and I can use the change to buy a trailer. I’m keeping the EVO though. Probably put the front LSD on it too. Wonder if I can toe the trailer w/ the Elise with the EVO…..How funny would that be.

Wonder if I can enter two cars at the same event.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 07:54 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by tweekscratch
Pepsi, there is no high horse here, simply impatience. You and several other people are obsessed with car setup. Three or four people (too lazy to go back and count) managed to respond to my actual question.

Keep in mind: I’m talking about autocross. Car setup is probably only worth about .5 seconds on a course (S&TF states his setup is only worth .7s on a road course). In my region I’m going to have to be a lot faster to make that .5 seconds mean anything. Further, a faster more experienced version of me will probably use different settings than what I’m using now.

What I didn’t state earlier (b/c I wasn’t talking about setup) is that I’m following a process as I’m making these adjustments. My next event will add setting the toe on the front of the car along with the camber setting I used at the last event. Once I have that right the car will be dialed in to me. At least until I get the 9K springs for the rear. At which point I’ll have to start over b/c that will change the car’s behavior.

The Exige is a very cool car. I’ll be getting an orange Elise with the sports package next year simply b/c it is $10K cheaper and I can use the change to buy a trailer. I’m keeping the EVO though. Probably put the front LSD on it too. Wonder if I can toe the trailer w/ the Elise with the EVO…..How funny would that be.

Wonder if I can enter two cars at the same event.
i'm glad we're on somewhat of the same page on the your last post, no hard feelings meant man, and sorry if i didn't fit into your thread man, was just tryin to help

Good idea on the progessive testing. Personally, i know i'm not of the caliber to compeletly setup a whole system. Suspension is not my complete forte, but i'm tryin to get everything down. Going with a robi setup after an hr talk with him on what the car does, and where i drive it.

I'm sure you can enter two cars, i almost did it at an hpde with the evo and my old rsx
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Old May 14, 2006 | 07:24 PM
  #53  
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We're cool. Its the internet. nobody knows you are a god here. (unless they are a security geek, in which case I have your license plate number, your mother's maiden name and all of your account numbers .

on the setup thing: this is one place where Autocross is better than road race. You can safely learn how to twist the dials and not put yourself (or other people) in any danger. Once you understand how the dials affect things you can figure out how to setup your car for any type of event on any type of surface. As stated too many times already, my current setup would be suicide on a road course. But for autocross it is almost adaquate (sp too lazy to use word).
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Old May 15, 2006 | 03:03 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by tweekscratch
We're cool. Its the internet. nobody knows you are a god here. (unless they are a security geek, in which case I have your license plate number, your mother's maiden name and all of your account numbers .

on the setup thing: this is one place where Autocross is better than road race. You can safely learn how to twist the dials and not put yourself (or other people) in any danger. Once you understand how the dials affect things you can figure out how to setup your car for any type of event on any type of surface. As stated too many times already, my current setup would be suicide on a road course. But for autocross it is almost adaquate (sp too lazy to use word).
..who knows, maybe you're trying to get into drifting
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Old May 16, 2006 | 05:27 AM
  #55  
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I do happen to own a copy of the drift bible
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Old May 16, 2006 | 07:55 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by tweekscratch
I have two seasons of Autocross under my belt and I have attended a number of AX schools too. Overall I've improved greatly, however, I feel like I'm still missing something.

When I'm autocross and I take a sharp turn (tight radius left or right) I tend to plow. I know this is an issue with driving, but I want to know: Is there a way to spin an EVO out in a slow low radius turn?

How can I drive different to cause my car to be more loose?

I have coil overs w/ camber plates. during events I'm putting in as much negative camber as I can. Generally the car is fairly nuetral. This is not a setup issue. It is a driving technique issue.

Are there any driving excercises I could try? (I can rent a parking lot w/o too much trouble).

any suggestions would be greatly apperciated
Use some trail braking to get the back to lighten. Also can add air pressure to the rear tires to "unstick" them a little. I use to run 42psi front/43psi rear with the stock Advans for autocross.
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 12:17 AM
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DELETE... i just noticed how old this thread was.. lol

Last edited by moreryce; Nov 17, 2006 at 12:19 AM. Reason: Delete...
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