Um, but this is autocrossing and I had done no laps. I had 0 brakes the first time I tried to hit them from high speed (60-65mph) on the only straightaway. Had this been on the straight at the road course trying to brake from 130mph, it would have been ugly. They have felt significantly weaker at the last few autocross events after the last track event, but I wasn't sure if it was me or the brakes themselves. After this complete failure on my FIRST run of the day, I'm pretty sure the brakes are toast, and I have a new set ready to go in this week. My stock rotors and lines made it 19k miles with lots of racing.

Razor, no, I don't have any cool bleeders. This stuff is new to me, so I need to learn how to do it all myself and get the proper tools.

 

hmmm I thought that was autocross. Well do you have stock brake pads or after market and if so what kind? Also, do you have ATE blue or some brake fluid that can withstand high heat like Mutul? Rotors should be okay but as everything they have life expectancy.


I thought you did your homework of basic good pads/fluid with lines before tracking the car.

body role on EVOS is normal. they have high center gravity and they are heavy. The only thing that helps us is the strong body structure and all wheel driver.

Also, I see some slicks on there

 

Yes, I have pads and Super Blue. Those have allowed me to do quite well on the otherwise stock brakes, but after I set the rotors aflame while cutting fast lap times at PMI, they no longer worked very well. Now, I'm replacing the rotors with slotted ones while freshening up the pads and fluid again.

I know the body roll is normal, but mine is pretty excessive compared to some others with good suspension. I'm very happy with my stock suspension, but sometimes it looks like my outside front wheel fell into a pothole.

 

Shuffling is for cars that don't have F1-quick steering...how many F1 drivers shuffle...and how many F1 drivers aren't the best in the world...and what argument can counter this one (hint: "my driving instructor told me not to" doesn't count...unless you driving instructor races in F1...)?

 

i agree on the hand positioning for the 9 and 3 thing. on one pic it looks like you turned the wheel to quickly from the start of the turn resulting in a push. you need to roll into the steering. i.e. get the car ready and let it know you are going to turn it and not surprise the car. a car will generally not tip over so i wouldnt reallt worry about that unless you hit something or there is a pavement disparity.

oh and most of all.......seat time!

 

Get that ATE out of your system (it's probably sticky tar inside your calipers by now) and put some Motul in there. Having to pump your brakes doesn't have anything to do with your pads it's your fluid boiling and/or having bubbles to begin with. And what are you doing out there with ceramic pads? You can track most any pad given enough braking distance adjustment, but damn man it's no fun like that. Also, our cars love tripod mode, tell the safety guy he's nuts.

 

Machron, why did you ask about the ceramic pads? I've actually been testing them for a sponsor. I didn't understand the correlation between how you asked the question and the following statement about braking distance.

Yeah, the tripod mode isn't what bothered the safety chief. It was when I went down the one straight, hit 3rd at full boost, then tried to late brake very hard like I used to do and got 0 feedback. I had to let off quickly, then pump the brakes, which meant I overshot the turn. To compensate, I started my hard right bank while still braking (partial trailbrake), so it was causing a much more severe tripod or even bipod (no pics to verify) with me barreling into a 90-degree right turn while braking very late and erraticly from 65mph.

 

Sorry, I thought you meant you were using street pads! I know there are some track-oriented ceramic pads, I just didn't know you were using them (metallic of course is a lot more common). I thought you were trying some really deep braking with street pads. And I guess if you were up on TWO wheels or looked out of control, the corner worker had something to complain about.

I would stay away from Ate though, that stuff cooks too easy and stays gummed in your calipers, or at least that's my experience with it. Next time you flush, use Motul and see how long it takes your purged fluid to get rid of the blue tint. You might have to use a lot more fluid that you thought to get it all out.

 

amen! actually man, flush with the valvoline stuff, it's in the big containers at a discount or advance auto... good stuff, flush, then use motul... if not, you'll go through 3-4 bottles of motul

 

Warrtalon,
What tires are you running at the track there?

 

The understeer issue is caused by driving too hard not really wrong, you'd know it if you felt it because its pretty sudden. If the car doesn't do it then it speaks volumes for the tires you're running and their compliance (Khumo 710s?).

I'm not sure of my schedule these days so I have to play it by ear a little bit. That means a last minute desision for those events.

As far as hand position goes you generally want to end up in the middle of the corner with your hands at 9 and 3, that way you have a full turn of lock in either direction if needed (depending on whether you get understeer or oversteer). Shuffle steering is the best technique out there and it avoids crossing over and keep two hands on the wheel.

I'll try to get to Pueblo soon and you can check out the suspension on my car and go from there

 

Hotrod, I use Kumho V710.

Chrono, hopefully we can hook up this year, because I want to do my suspension once and do it right (within budgetary reason) between now and next season.

 

let us know what suspension mods you do warr!

 

If you have enough meat left on your rotors, and they aren't cracked, and if you have enough meat on your pads and they aren't crumbling I am 99% certain its your fluid.

You said you caught the brakes on fire at your track event. Then you probably killed the fluid.

Honestly, before you spend money on rotors and pads (unless you need them, see above) then I would just flush your brake fluid and put some fresh in there.

 

Who cares it's only $16/qt