Body Roll anyone?
Warr,
So just one side pad wore down to the metal, and these where brand new pads? What did the other side pads look like? Worn down almost as much? Which pad wore down to the metal, the inside one in the caliper or the outside one?
Do this... Next time you drive to work or drive home from work, park, and check to see if one wheel is giving off more heat then the other. You might have a sticking piston.
So just one side pad wore down to the metal, and these where brand new pads? What did the other side pads look like? Worn down almost as much? Which pad wore down to the metal, the inside one in the caliper or the outside one?
Do this... Next time you drive to work or drive home from work, park, and check to see if one wheel is giving off more heat then the other. You might have a sticking piston.
Not to highjack Warr's thread, but I have an ATE Super Blue question/comment that may relate. I recently did one track day at the Thunderhill (ambient temp about 60F) with new Endless pads and Mits brake cooling guides on the lower front susp. arms and this combination worked much better for me than previous track days with stock pads and fluid. No fade or soft brake pedal in 6 20 min. track sessions.
However, it seems as though the front pads are not completely "releasing" since my track day as the front brakes feel "hotter than they should" even after a drive without much use. I just bought a Motive bleeder and was going to bleed all four corners this week, but now I am wondering if the "gooey" situation Machron suggests with the ATE fluid might be a factor in my front pads seemingly being slightly engaged even with no brake pedal applied. I was hoping bleeding would alleviate this.
Thanks,
Mark
However, it seems as though the front pads are not completely "releasing" since my track day as the front brakes feel "hotter than they should" even after a drive without much use. I just bought a Motive bleeder and was going to bleed all four corners this week, but now I am wondering if the "gooey" situation Machron suggests with the ATE fluid might be a factor in my front pads seemingly being slightly engaged even with no brake pedal applied. I was hoping bleeding would alleviate this.
Thanks,
Mark
Originally Posted by CH4MAN
Not to highjack Warr's thread, but I have an ATE Super Blue question/comment that may relate. I recently did one track day at the Thunderhill (ambient temp about 60F) with new Endless pads and Mits brake cooling guides on the lower front susp. arms and this combination worked much better for me than previous track days with stock pads and fluid. No fade or soft brake pedal in 6 20 min. track sessions.
However, it seems as though the front pads are not completely "releasing" since my track day as the front brakes feel "hotter than they should" even after a drive without much use. I just bought a Motive bleeder and was going to bleed all four corners this week, but now I am wondering if the "gooey" situation Machron suggests with the ATE fluid might be a factor in my front pads seemingly being slightly engaged even with no brake pedal applied. I was hoping bleeding would alleviate this.
Thanks,
Mark
However, it seems as though the front pads are not completely "releasing" since my track day as the front brakes feel "hotter than they should" even after a drive without much use. I just bought a Motive bleeder and was going to bleed all four corners this week, but now I am wondering if the "gooey" situation Machron suggests with the ATE fluid might be a factor in my front pads seemingly being slightly engaged even with no brake pedal applied. I was hoping bleeding would alleviate this.
Thanks,
Mark
Going back to your earlier non-brake related posts, your suspension is keeping you from the top spots. The stock suspension cannot deal with the grip generated by the 710s.
You are losing time in transitions. Every slalom your car is bouncing off the left bump stops and then the right ones. That is a lot of time left on the course.
I don't know how serious you are about auto-x, but stock suspension makes your car severely underprepped for SM.
You are losing time in transitions. Every slalom your car is bouncing off the left bump stops and then the right ones. That is a lot of time left on the course.
I don't know how serious you are about auto-x, but stock suspension makes your car severely underprepped for SM.
That's encouraging to hear that about the RT-615's, I've been scoping them out as replacement tires for the Advans. What was the temperature at the track? My coworker with a Miata is running RT-615's on his car and at the last track day we were at (well over 90 degrees outside) he felt they were overheating later in the day and that his lap times were getting slower as a result.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
The result of all this was I went to the track Saturday and put down the fastest lap of any group during the first session while on my RT-615s
Originally Posted by Dodzilla
That's encouraging to hear that about the RT-615's, I've been scoping them out as replacement tires for the Advans. What was the temperature at the track? My coworker with a Miata is running RT-615's on his car and at the last track day we were at (well over 90 degrees outside) he felt they were overheating later in the day and that his lap times were getting slower as a result.
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Originally Posted by Dodzilla
That's encouraging to hear that about the RT-615's, I've been scoping them out as replacement tires for the Advans. What was the temperature at the track? My coworker with a Miata is running RT-615's on his car and at the last track day we were at (well over 90 degrees outside) he felt they were overheating later in the day and that his lap times were getting slower as a result.
I'm very pleased with how this tire performed and am elated to have them as my daily driven and drag tire for less than $600 total.
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Originally Posted by Boder
Going back to your earlier non-brake related posts, your suspension is keeping you from the top spots. The stock suspension cannot deal with the grip generated by the 710s.
You are losing time in transitions. Every slalom your car is bouncing off the left bump stops and then the right ones. That is a lot of time left on the course.
I don't know how serious you are about auto-x, but stock suspension makes your car severely underprepped for SM.
You are losing time in transitions. Every slalom your car is bouncing off the left bump stops and then the right ones. That is a lot of time left on the course.
I don't know how serious you are about auto-x, but stock suspension makes your car severely underprepped for SM.
After all that, I plan to do a good suspension over the Winter along with some lightweight 17X9s with 275-width V710s to see if I can be much more competitive in SM while winning a few NASA events in TTA. As it stands now, I'm 4th overall in SM (7pts behind 2nd place, but 80 behind 1st) and have beaten all the TT cars at both NASA events so far, so I'm excited about getting a proper suspension/brake/tire setup to go with the power that is already there.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Yes, I agree completely and understand what you're saying. The car is not setup nor designed for auto-x. It's mainly setup for drag, since that's all I really know and since I've only been getting power mods from sponsors, but I'm more interested in auto-x and road racing, so my goal for this year was to be as competitive as possible in the local SM class (Rocky Mountain region) while learning to master my stock suspension. I consider the stock suspension to be very good, and I'm very new to non-linear racing, so I figured it would take a while. Concurrently, I've been working my way up through the NASA HPDE classes in hopes of getting my Time Trial license before the year ends.
After all that, I plan to do a good suspension over the Winter along with some lightweight 17X9s with 275-width V710s to see if I can be much more competitive in SM while winning a few NASA events in TTA. As it stands now, I'm 4th overall in SM (7pts behind 2nd place, but 80 behind 1st) and have beaten all the TT cars at both NASA events so far, so I'm excited about getting a proper suspension/brake/tire setup to go with the power that is already there.
After all that, I plan to do a good suspension over the Winter along with some lightweight 17X9s with 275-width V710s to see if I can be much more competitive in SM while winning a few NASA events in TTA. As it stands now, I'm 4th overall in SM (7pts behind 2nd place, but 80 behind 1st) and have beaten all the TT cars at both NASA events so far, so I'm excited about getting a proper suspension/brake/tire setup to go with the power that is already there.
Warrtalon - upgrade to Motul RBF600. I have been driving on Motul for the past year and half even in winter with snow and my car is a daily driver. Last year, I flushed the fluid in october and then did not bleed or flush till early april. I was on stock lines too. I did not have any problems and this was the second winter i did this.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
No, I haven't even done a quick bleed.
I know Motul is good, but is it something that I'd want for the way I use my car? Auto-x, HPDE, drag, and daily driving to/from work...
I know Motul is good, but is it something that I'd want for the way I use my car? Auto-x, HPDE, drag, and daily driving to/from work...
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KZ, I will try that.
As an update (brakes-related), I went back to PMI road course in Pueblo for an open track day just to get some practice. Luckily, the Evo shop who ran the event brought some in-car lap timers, which I found to be extremely useful. Instead of seeing a lap report sheet at the end of a long session, I got immediate feedback on my laps so I was able to see what was working and what wasn't. Sometimes you think you're fast when you're not and other times it's the opposite. This data combined with a little more skill/experience from my last trip there in March helped me to improve quite a bit:
- Previous best lap - 1:45.5 (on V710s) - Ran a bunch of 1:46s, but that was my only 1:45.
- Today's best - 1:45.7 (on my RT-615s again!!) - Also ran a 1:45.9 with a passenger and many 1:46s
So, in 80-ish degree weather on my street tires, I basically matched my best previous lap ever, which was on race tires. I was only hoping to pull 1:47s, which is still quite fast, but when my first lap was a 1:47.3 with a pause to pass someone, I knew I was in business. I ran multiple 1:46.1s with mistakes, and the 1:45.9 was while teaching another Evo owner some of my techniques (passenger). I was amazed when I saw the 1:45.9, because I did that while talking and pointing out apexes/lines/shift-points/etc.
However, following my theme from La JUnta, after half a day of running on my street tires, my brakes started to screech. I had put on my stock rotors and old pads from before the recent brake upgrade, because the pads disintegrated at the track 3 weeks ago and took out my new rotors. Well, this time, the pads just wore all the way down (1 year old) and were touching the rotors again. Oh well, had to drive home without being able to put on my race tires again. That's ok, because we have our next NASA event in July, and I'll have my replacement rotors/pads by then.
As an update (brakes-related), I went back to PMI road course in Pueblo for an open track day just to get some practice. Luckily, the Evo shop who ran the event brought some in-car lap timers, which I found to be extremely useful. Instead of seeing a lap report sheet at the end of a long session, I got immediate feedback on my laps so I was able to see what was working and what wasn't. Sometimes you think you're fast when you're not and other times it's the opposite. This data combined with a little more skill/experience from my last trip there in March helped me to improve quite a bit:
- Previous best lap - 1:45.5 (on V710s) - Ran a bunch of 1:46s, but that was my only 1:45.
- Today's best - 1:45.7 (on my RT-615s again!!) - Also ran a 1:45.9 with a passenger and many 1:46s
So, in 80-ish degree weather on my street tires, I basically matched my best previous lap ever, which was on race tires. I was only hoping to pull 1:47s, which is still quite fast, but when my first lap was a 1:47.3 with a pause to pass someone, I knew I was in business. I ran multiple 1:46.1s with mistakes, and the 1:45.9 was while teaching another Evo owner some of my techniques (passenger). I was amazed when I saw the 1:45.9, because I did that while talking and pointing out apexes/lines/shift-points/etc.
However, following my theme from La JUnta, after half a day of running on my street tires, my brakes started to screech. I had put on my stock rotors and old pads from before the recent brake upgrade, because the pads disintegrated at the track 3 weeks ago and took out my new rotors. Well, this time, the pads just wore all the way down (1 year old) and were touching the rotors again. Oh well, had to drive home without being able to put on my race tires again. That's ok, because we have our next NASA event in July, and I'll have my replacement rotors/pads by then.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
KZ, I will try that.
As an update (brakes-related), I went back to PMI road course in Pueblo for an open track day just to get some practice. Luckily, the Evo shop who ran the event brought some in-car lap timers, which I found to be extremely useful. Instead of seeing a lap report sheet at the end of a long session, I got immediate feedback on my laps so I was able to see what was working and what wasn't. Sometimes you think you're fast when you're not and other times it's the opposite. This data combined with a little more skill/experience from my last trip there in March helped me to improve quite a bit:
- Previous best lap - 1:45.5 (on V710s) - Ran a bunch of 1:46s, but that was my only 1:45.
- Today's best - 1:45.7 (on my RT-615s again!!) - Also ran a 1:45.9 with a passenger and many 1:46s
So, in 80-ish degree weather on my street tires, I basically matched my best previous lap ever, which was on race tires. I was only hoping to pull 1:47s, which is still quite fast, but when my first lap was a 1:47.3 with a pause to pass someone, I knew I was in business. I ran multiple 1:46.1s with mistakes, and the 1:45.9 was while teaching another Evo owner some of my techniques (passenger). I was amazed when I saw the 1:45.9, because I did that while talking and pointing out apexes/lines/shift-points/etc.
However, following my theme from La JUnta, after half a day of running on my street tires, my brakes started to screech. I had put on my stock rotors and old pads from before the recent brake upgrade, because the pads disintegrated at the track 3 weeks ago and took out my new rotors. Well, this time, the pads just wore all the way down (1 year old) and were touching the rotors again. Oh well, had to drive home without being able to put on my race tires again. That's ok, because we have our next NASA event in July, and I'll have my replacement rotors/pads by then.
As an update (brakes-related), I went back to PMI road course in Pueblo for an open track day just to get some practice. Luckily, the Evo shop who ran the event brought some in-car lap timers, which I found to be extremely useful. Instead of seeing a lap report sheet at the end of a long session, I got immediate feedback on my laps so I was able to see what was working and what wasn't. Sometimes you think you're fast when you're not and other times it's the opposite. This data combined with a little more skill/experience from my last trip there in March helped me to improve quite a bit:
- Previous best lap - 1:45.5 (on V710s) - Ran a bunch of 1:46s, but that was my only 1:45.
- Today's best - 1:45.7 (on my RT-615s again!!) - Also ran a 1:45.9 with a passenger and many 1:46s
So, in 80-ish degree weather on my street tires, I basically matched my best previous lap ever, which was on race tires. I was only hoping to pull 1:47s, which is still quite fast, but when my first lap was a 1:47.3 with a pause to pass someone, I knew I was in business. I ran multiple 1:46.1s with mistakes, and the 1:45.9 was while teaching another Evo owner some of my techniques (passenger). I was amazed when I saw the 1:45.9, because I did that while talking and pointing out apexes/lines/shift-points/etc.
However, following my theme from La JUnta, after half a day of running on my street tires, my brakes started to screech. I had put on my stock rotors and old pads from before the recent brake upgrade, because the pads disintegrated at the track 3 weeks ago and took out my new rotors. Well, this time, the pads just wore all the way down (1 year old) and were touching the rotors again. Oh well, had to drive home without being able to put on my race tires again. That's ok, because we have our next NASA event in July, and I'll have my replacement rotors/pads by then.
WooHoo another drag racer who is now enjoying the steering wheel and brakes
I used Valvoline synthetic brake fluid in my car druing the HPDE. It's got a 502* BP, which I didn't have any problems with, and costs about half as much as the Motul. You can get it at Auto Zone, too (which maybe you can Motul also, I don't know).






