On my first track event back in May, I saw no higher than 110C. My second event, a week later, saw 120C. This past weekend, in 100+ degree heat, I saw 130C. The car is detuned from the factory calibrations.

On my 20 minute sessions yesterday, I would see 130C after 10 minutes of running hard. The heater was set at 2 during that time. For one lap, approximately 2 miles, I'd shortshift into 4th and run with the heater full blast. After that the car would stay around 120C for the next 10 minutes. This particular track, the Miller Motorsports Park west track, has me between 5k and 8k rpms in 3rd gear almost exclusively, with one half of the west track almost flat-out.

I do fresh Mobil 1 10w30 before each event. I sure wish there was a 15w40 out there from Mobil 1. Any ideas what is needed to blend up some oil that isn't super sludge, but a bit more heat resistant?

-Jon

 

I use a blend of 10w30 mobil 1 and 20w50 syntec

 

On my '05 RS on a 90F day at Thunderhill I saw 110C on the stock gauge/sender.

TBE, Works P2, and a fluttering stock DV.

 

Hmm, I just got back from the track and saw 150C on the oil temp gauge....

Royal Purple 20w50...is there something wrong with my car? Seems to be ok still through...

 

temps like that would worry me.... specially if you ran it hot like that for a long time.

Oil temps are all over the place in here... some see really low temps.. some see super high temps.

n

 

to answer your question, here's the link to post on my solution
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...p+issue+solved

 

Anyone know which plug is pre and which is post oil cooler?

 

anyone know where the mitsu guage cluster oil temp sender is located

 

If you have a stock bottom end or tight clearances, part of the problem will be too high Viscosity oil, and the Royal Purple... Thicker is not always better.

Stock Bottom, you should be running a 30 wgt oil in most cases, and make sure it is a True Synthetic.. AMSOIL or Mobil 1 EP are going to be the best you can buy... If your track times don't exceed about 30 minutes before you come in, AMSOIL SSO 0W-30 would be the ticket... Plenty of protection, and a HP Boost over 20W-50, along with proper flow that the engine was designed for.

If your track times run over 30-40 minutes, AMSOIL AMO 10W-40 would be the recommendation.. We are running 1400 HP out of a 2.3 EcoTec on the Salt Flats with that 10W-40.

Doc

 

Question for those folks with high temps..... do you have your downpipe wrapped? With the car moving you wouldn't expect the heat to trasfer that much but it does especially with the undertray on there.

 

Excellent Point as well... I remember reading about that and it does make a difference from what I read.


Doc

 

One thing I have noticed is a actually took some basically reflective butyl material (essentially dynomat extreme) and put that on the oil pan. This helps reflects the heat and doesn't allow the oil pan to absorb the heat. I don't have concrete data if it helped but I can tell you for autoX doing 3 or 4 runs back to back and idling at the line for 10min at a time my oil temps never exceed 210-220F on my Defi.

I could also contribute this to running a Tanabe downpipe as there is so much room around it I can slide my whole hand between the oil pan and the downpipe. When I had my TurboXS 3in it was about 1cm clearance and I think that really doesn't help at all.

 

on the drain plug.

 

Like someone said, oil and water temp go hand in hand.
I added ralliart radiator thermostat and my car never saw above 110C on a 95+F track day. I've read some literature that above 100C you want to add radiator themostat, 110C add OIL cooler thermostat, 120C+ add or upgrade oil cooler.
I assume 120C is the magic number, from what I read.
JMO

 

^ Are you sure? In most cases the thermostat is open during the first lap and stays open because the temps are always high. You can have it open sooner but it wont make any difference.