oil temps
Jun 19, 2008, 02:22 PM
#76
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I was out at SMMP all day in may, was pretty warm but not too bad and my temps never went over 110C on the stock guage and I was out there about 30 mins at a time. Was just using stock mobil 1 5w30 that I just changed.
This is off the Redline website:
VISCOSITY GRADE SELECTION
The proper viscosity grade to use depends on
many factors such as ambient temperature, miles
on the engine, bearing and piston clearances, and
type of service. A general rule of lubrication is to
use the lowest viscosity possible which will provide
the proper separation of metal. Anything more than
this minimum will increase power loss due to
friction and will reduce the pumpability of the oil at
all temperatures. However, one must consider
synthetics differently when determining viscosity
requirements. At high speeds, a petroleum 5W30
can appear to be a 15W in the bearings due to the
shear stress, yet Red Line 5W30 will actually be an
SAE 30 in the bearings. There is a significant
difference in lubricating an engine with a 30
compared to a 15W. Red Line Synthetic oil will
provide better viscosity protection than the next
higher petroleum viscosity grade. If clearances are
tight and very little lugging occurs, then the 5W30
or 10W30 should be adequate. Less turbo lag will
be noticed with the 5W30. If ambient temperatures
will regularly climb above 100°F, then the 10W40
would provide an additional safety margin. If the
engine is air-cooled, or if the engine is older and
has greater bearing and ring clearances, the
15W50 and 20W50 will develop a thicker oil film. If
very low temperatures occur, the lower viscosity
grades, (5W30, 10W30, or 10W40) will flow better
and lubricate the engine more quickly after start-up
The proper viscosity grade to use depends on
many factors such as ambient temperature, miles
on the engine, bearing and piston clearances, and
type of service. A general rule of lubrication is to
use the lowest viscosity possible which will provide
the proper separation of metal. Anything more than
this minimum will increase power loss due to
friction and will reduce the pumpability of the oil at
all temperatures. However, one must consider
synthetics differently when determining viscosity
requirements. At high speeds, a petroleum 5W30
can appear to be a 15W in the bearings due to the
shear stress, yet Red Line 5W30 will actually be an
SAE 30 in the bearings. There is a significant
difference in lubricating an engine with a 30
compared to a 15W. Red Line Synthetic oil will
provide better viscosity protection than the next
higher petroleum viscosity grade. If clearances are
tight and very little lugging occurs, then the 5W30
or 10W30 should be adequate. Less turbo lag will
be noticed with the 5W30. If ambient temperatures
will regularly climb above 100°F, then the 10W40
would provide an additional safety margin. If the
engine is air-cooled, or if the engine is older and
has greater bearing and ring clearances, the
15W50 and 20W50 will develop a thicker oil film. If
very low temperatures occur, the lower viscosity
grades, (5W30, 10W30, or 10W40) will flow better
and lubricate the engine more quickly after start-up
Last edited by 20psiMR; Jun 19, 2008 at 02:33 PM.
Jun 19, 2008, 07:55 PM
#77
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oil light flicker gone
Previous two times at the track, after the cool down lap, I would have a slightly flickering oil light at idle. This was with Mobil 1 10W30. I haven't installed a proper oil pressure gauge yet so I don't know what the oil pressure was. Anyway, this seems to be somewhat common and may just be a bad sender.
But yesterday I ran with Redline 10W40 and got no oil light flicker. I don't know if it was because it was Redline, or 10W40, or perhaps both.
But yesterday I ran with Redline 10W40 and got no oil light flicker. I don't know if it was because it was Redline, or 10W40, or perhaps both.
Jun 30, 2008, 01:17 AM
#78
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I don't know your build, but unless that bottom end is super loose, I'm Gonna say the oil is too high a viscosity for starters. That will add to oil temps but that seems to be considerable temps. Are you sure your guage is correct ? Just taking a guess but in F., 100 C is 210 so that has to be close to 300 ? Your coolant would be effected as well and boiling all over.
Need to look into and check the guage..
Doc
Need to look into and check the guage..
Doc
140C is 284F
150C is 302F
Jun 30, 2008, 01:28 AM
#79
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Anyway, I will add a bit more info about my car....
Its tuned to produce about 300WHP on a dynojet with about 17.1 psi peak boost. The previous owner said that my head is different, and it has bigger valves. I have DP that is wrapped, and I think my oil temp sender is located near the point where the filter is located. I have an HKS oil cooler with HKS oil thermostat.
I now changed to RP 10w40 oil to see if it makes a difference. But so far, driving it in the streets show it to be similar with the 50wt oil...haven't brought it to the track through.
My oil temps increase when I am on full throttle...I stay on track and push the car 3 hard laps of about 2:00 each...then I drive it 80% for a lap or so, then back to 100% again. The average temp looks to be at 130C and I can see it rise to 150C when I am on the longer parts of the track where I do full throttle runs.
My AFR is in the range of about 11.5 to about 13.5.
I am considering getting a Ralliart thermostat for the radiator, and also possibly removing the oil thermostat to help with cooling i suppose.
any advice would be wonderful!
Oh and by the way, I used to have X-Line Gauges, and now I have PLX...senders are placed in the same place, but the temp readings on both are identical...so that rules out gauge problems.
Its tuned to produce about 300WHP on a dynojet with about 17.1 psi peak boost. The previous owner said that my head is different, and it has bigger valves. I have DP that is wrapped, and I think my oil temp sender is located near the point where the filter is located. I have an HKS oil cooler with HKS oil thermostat.
I now changed to RP 10w40 oil to see if it makes a difference. But so far, driving it in the streets show it to be similar with the 50wt oil...haven't brought it to the track through.
My oil temps increase when I am on full throttle...I stay on track and push the car 3 hard laps of about 2:00 each...then I drive it 80% for a lap or so, then back to 100% again. The average temp looks to be at 130C and I can see it rise to 150C when I am on the longer parts of the track where I do full throttle runs.
My AFR is in the range of about 11.5 to about 13.5.
I am considering getting a Ralliart thermostat for the radiator, and also possibly removing the oil thermostat to help with cooling i suppose.
any advice would be wonderful!
Oh and by the way, I used to have X-Line Gauges, and now I have PLX...senders are placed in the same place, but the temp readings on both are identical...so that rules out gauge problems.
Jun 30, 2008, 01:33 AM
#80
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another suggestion was to remove the balancer shafts...to increase the flow of oil...it will yield an increase in oil pressure too...but supposedly make it recycle faster, and won't let the oil stay in there too long, before it is passed through the oil cooler...
I am also strongly considering installing my stock oil cooler together with the current HKS oil cooler...
any thoughts on these?
I am also strongly considering installing my stock oil cooler together with the current HKS oil cooler...
any thoughts on these?
Last edited by exacc; Jun 30, 2008 at 03:27 AM.
Jun 30, 2008, 07:02 AM
#81
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Previous two times at the track, after the cool down lap, I would have a slightly flickering oil light at idle. This was with Mobil 1 10W30. I haven't installed a proper oil pressure gauge yet so I don't know what the oil pressure was. Anyway, this seems to be somewhat common and may just be a bad sender.
But yesterday I ran with Redline 10W40 and got no oil light flicker. I don't know if it was because it was Redline, or 10W40, or perhaps both.
But yesterday I ran with Redline 10W40 and got no oil light flicker. I don't know if it was because it was Redline, or 10W40, or perhaps both.
If the other oil had some age on it, it could have been sheared back before you started and was too thin by the end.
A heavier viscosity oil is not necessarily the cure. Some oils just don't hold up as well as others.
Give AMSOIL Product Code SSO 0W-30 a try. It is the Top of The Line and will hold up better to shear than the Mobil 1.
Doc
Jul 1, 2008, 01:03 AM
#82
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The 40 wgt may have an effect on that. Depends on the age of the Mobil 1 that was in there and which Mobil 1.
If the other oil had some age on it, it could have been sheared back before you started and was too thin by the end.
A heavier viscosity oil is not necessarily the cure. Some oils just don't hold up as well as others.
Give AMSOIL Product Code SSO 0W-30 a try. It is the Top of The Line and will hold up better to shear than the Mobil 1.
Doc
If the other oil had some age on it, it could have been sheared back before you started and was too thin by the end.
A heavier viscosity oil is not necessarily the cure. Some oils just don't hold up as well as others.
Give AMSOIL Product Code SSO 0W-30 a try. It is the Top of The Line and will hold up better to shear than the Mobil 1.
Doc
Checked RP website for the 5w30 I used before...
Viscosity Index = 152
at 100C = 10.6
RP 20w 50
VI = 138
at 100C = 20.2
As per Jeff, Sunoco 5w 50
VI = 182
at 100C 19.2
Mobile 1 5w 30 (recommended for Lancer EVO in USA)
VI = 169
at 100C 11.3
Jul 13, 2008, 11:46 AM
#83
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Accusump
Did anyone ever install an Accusump unit? I have lost two motors now from no oil pressure, high 'G' right hand turns, and I cant wait for a dry sump system. looking to see exactly what parts to get from Canton (valve, canister, etc.)
May 18, 2009, 09:39 AM
#84
Seeing some high temps. I thought they were crazy high, but looks like others have seen much higher.
Thinking of sending in a sample to Blackstone. Any advice on specific testing to ask for?
Thinking of sending in a sample to Blackstone. Any advice on specific testing to ask for?
May 18, 2009, 11:26 AM
#85
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i never ended up sending my stuff in... but just order their kit & send it in.. i heard they give you all the info in the world & are good to work with.
Kmac... i use a accusump... so far testing has shown ot works/helps with your issue...what u wanna know?
Kmac... i use a accusump... so far testing has shown ot works/helps with your issue...what u wanna know?
