Quick Q on pad swapping
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Well another thought is preventing heat transfer to the caliper pistions, which in turn would heat the fluid. Girodisc sells titanium shims for this (Ti is much less conductive).
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Originally Posted by Czubaka
Well another thought is preventing heat transfer to the caliper pistions, which in turn would heat the fluid. Girodisc sells titanium shims for this (Ti is much less conductive).
i think you have a point there...i guess i'll take the extra couple minutes to put those shims in...thanks
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LOL I don't think a thin steel shim is going to be much of a thermal barrier between the pad and the piston, but whatever floats your boat. On the track it seems like the pedal feel is better without the shims, and it's definitely a lot faster to swap pads at the track without messing around with the shims.
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Here's the link:
http://girodisc.com/catalog/product_...7734fccf7d1e3e
They have them for both front and rear.
While I'm not sure how much protection they'll give you, I've seen first hand the lack of conductivity ti has. I'm on an investigation where a rocket failed due to an engine fire (in the wrong spot). There are several ti lines where the end is melted/flowed ti (3100F+), but a couple inches away the ti isn't even discolored.
Also, racing brake sells steel shims that have a silicon coating.
http://girodisc.com/catalog/product_...7734fccf7d1e3e
They have them for both front and rear.
While I'm not sure how much protection they'll give you, I've seen first hand the lack of conductivity ti has. I'm on an investigation where a rocket failed due to an engine fire (in the wrong spot). There are several ti lines where the end is melted/flowed ti (3100F+), but a couple inches away the ti isn't even discolored.
Also, racing brake sells steel shims that have a silicon coating.
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#9
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Originally Posted by Czubaka
Here's the link:
http://girodisc.com/catalog/product_...7734fccf7d1e3e
They have them for both front and rear.
While I'm not sure how much protection they'll give you, I've seen first hand the lack of conductivity ti has. I'm on an investigation where a rocket failed due to an engine fire (in the wrong spot). There are several ti lines where the end is melted/flowed ti (3100F+), but a couple inches away the ti isn't even discolored.
Also, racing brake sells steel shims that have a silicon coating.
http://girodisc.com/catalog/product_...7734fccf7d1e3e
They have them for both front and rear.
While I'm not sure how much protection they'll give you, I've seen first hand the lack of conductivity ti has. I'm on an investigation where a rocket failed due to an engine fire (in the wrong spot). There are several ti lines where the end is melted/flowed ti (3100F+), but a couple inches away the ti isn't even discolored.
Also, racing brake sells steel shims that have a silicon coating.
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Originally Posted by Czubaka
Oh, ok. Yeah, these are the only shims I'm aware of...seeing as I haven't swapped the pads on the car yet; so I had no idea what else is in there.
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Originally Posted by Czubaka
Thanks for the info!
OT: Are the Pagid RS14's the yellow (race) ones? I'm in the market for new pads (fast road/some track days, but still streetable) and looking for opinions.
OT: Are the Pagid RS14's the yellow (race) ones? I'm in the market for new pads (fast road/some track days, but still streetable) and looking for opinions.
I wanted to get the RS29 (new yellow) but I couldn't even source the RS19 (old yellow). I wanted them because they are endurance pads and will therefore last longer and be more rotor-friendly, and only give up 100F to the RS14/RS15. But since I couldn't get them, I didn't want to go less aggressive, so I went more aggressive with the RS14.
I recently heard the Brits often consider Ferodo DS3000 streetable! You might try those. I know DS2500's are streetable but they don't hold up on the track like true track pads. Anyway, PM me if you want to know more I don't want to totally hijack this thread.
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thanks again for the info guys.
Machron1- seems like you're running w/o the shims and haven't had much issues.
i'm going to try running without them and let you guys know. i can probably save a 1/2 hr+ by not trying to squeeze those suckers in with a new pad and new rotors and then making sure the brake pins go thru all tabs.
thanks
Machron1- seems like you're running w/o the shims and haven't had much issues.
i'm going to try running without them and let you guys know. i can probably save a 1/2 hr+ by not trying to squeeze those suckers in with a new pad and new rotors and then making sure the brake pins go thru all tabs.
thanks
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Originally Posted by KZEVO
thanks again for the info guys.
Machron1- seems like you're running w/o the shims and haven't had much issues.
i'm going to try running without them and let you guys know. i can probably save a 1/2 hr+ by not trying to squeeze those suckers in with a new pad and new rotors and then making sure the brake pins go thru all tabs.
thanks
Machron1- seems like you're running w/o the shims and haven't had much issues.
i'm going to try running without them and let you guys know. i can probably save a 1/2 hr+ by not trying to squeeze those suckers in with a new pad and new rotors and then making sure the brake pins go thru all tabs.
thanks
Also keep in mind there is fresh Motul RBF600 brake fluid in my system at all times. I did have boiling/gumming problems with Ate Super Blue, but so have others, so I figure it's just the fluid. The Motul costs about 2x-4x as much as the Ate, but it works better on the track so to me it's worth it...it's a lot cheaper than losing brakes and slamming into a wall anyway...
I would be much more concerned about the condition of my fluid than the shims, but that's just me. I doubt the factory ones block much heat, and as for the noise, braking aggressively from really high speed doesn't normally cause much noise even with track pads...but you'll be squeeling like a stuck pig when you are staging and putting around the paddock area. Also, even with DS2500 pads they squeel like hell without tons of goopy anti-seize compound, and unless you plan on spending ANOTHER hour at the track smearing that stuff on everytying in the morning...not to mention being dirty as hell before you go driving...I wouldn't even bother. The last thing I want to do that early in the morning while rushing to get through tech is muck around with my pads more than I have to. Hell now I just put them on a few days prior and drive around squeeling because I don't like expending all that energy right before I go driving, especially that early in the morning. I would rather just relax, get through tech, clear my head, double check the important things like lug nuts, tire pressures, hoses, etc.
Good Luck!
Last edited by machron1; Jul 7, 2006 at 01:48 AM.
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