Clayton,

Did you drive your car after your knew 4th was bad? Or you just got unlucky when it did go?

What was the estimate of repair on the 6spd?

Good choice on the 5spd conversion. If I could have afforded it at the time, I would have done the same thing.

 

I was on the track when it happened and didn't know what was happening. I was at 100mph or so making a pass on the back straight at PMI. I finished the lap trying to figure out what was up then came in to pit. At the time, it just sounded like my DP was dragging on the ground, so I didn't even consider it being the tranny. It wasn't until I had driven it around a while and tested it in gear on jackstands that I figured out 4th was gone. I'm sure I did more damage after the initial failure.

I get the full estimate Monday, I think, but Shep's guess was that it would be well over $2000...maybe $2500? In this case, one of his re-manufactured 5spds with all the goodies is $2100, so "affording" it isn't an issue, since it costs less than fixing the 6spd. I don't know if that $2100 is with a core charge or whatever - he just mentioned it once. We are going to settle up on everything Monday after he's gathered all the info about what is needed for the 5spd conversion. He thinks he has each part lined up now as of this weekend, but we'll touch base Monday to be sure.

I still will fix the 6spd and then sell it, otherwise I'd have a busted 6spd paperweight.

 

$2100 is great because TRE 5spd + the parts needed for conversion was $3100. So approx $400 in parts for the 5spd conversion.

Sorry, I also meant did you drive it home from the track after you killed 4th.

 

Do us a favor and count how many times you try and shift into "6th gear" after you get the 5 speed trans in. One pro is that you can ditch the blazing metal shift knob of doom with the 5 speed.

 

Yeah, I finally get to have a short shifter, hah.

 

Yes that is the cost of the all the stuff to do the swap. That's the 6-5 speed conversion kit and a new prepped 5 speed transmission with:

EVO-9 1st gear
EVO-8 4th gear and
EVO-9 5th gear.

A couple guys is T2 run this transmission set-up as well as the Mueller/Jordan EVO and it is the best way to go for road racing or drag racing for that matter.

The kit comes with everything right down to the nuts & bolts so you can painlessly swap in the 5 speed.

http://www.teamrip.com/Evolution.html

 

On the contrary I swapped over the 6sp ball on the 5sp shifter. I am not ready to give up my precious knob. Furthermore I retained the 6sp center console that says "MR Edition" on it. Little tight, but it fits.

You don't need a short shifter with the MR knob. The throw feels like it is over an inch lower with just the stock 5sp lever compared to the joystick the MR had.

 

Very interesting options there Jon...

Best of both worlds it seems. Thanks for making these options possible.

 

So TTP, you are now running a 5spd? I know you killed one 6spd, but I thought I read somewhere the other day you killed two 6spds now? Same thing both times? 4th gear?

 

Nah, broke one, bought another broken one 3000mi.

 

That would explain why I run outta track in 4th gear? Better yet, run outta gear (4th) on the track

 

Exactly, the EVO-8 4th gear has about 6mph more @ 7000rpm.

 

You love pain, don't you?

 

I'm tempted to do the full stage 3 upgrade next season for my 6sp. I wonder if this, plus an oil cooler, plus the NEO RHD lube would keep the tranny happy for a day of ~20min sessions without any fear of premature failure.

How much does the shot-peening process really help to increase durability? I know what the process involves, and the site says it's a "substantial increase" but how much of a gain is it? I don't want to go the 5sp route unless I really need to.

 

I don't think a day of 20 min track sessions is something that will endanger your tranny. I've broken my 6sp before too, but now that I know it's limitations and adjusted the way I use it, I have not had any more issues (over the last 3 track days at least). Fresh fluid, good under car air flow, not resting your hand on the shifter, and making sure you let it cool down every 30 min seems to do the trick for me so far.