I'll be running FN01r-c 18X9.5 with 285/30 A6's for autox this year. Is there a need to run hubcentric spacers for autox speeds? I'm trying to keep this as simple as possible and would prefer to run without the spacers when on my stock wheels.
Is there a kit that doesn't require removal of the stock studs with 10mm spacer?

 

http://wheeladapter.com/

talk to Fred

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Ok, thanks.

 

With those wheels you will definitely need longer studs or a "bolt on" spacer if you run any spacers. Thread engagement is pretty low without any spacers. I had Fred make me a set of 10mm spacers, but I run the longer studs from RRE.

You could also look into KICS, as they make some nice spacers w/built in studs, but I don't know how thin they go. I think per the link below, it is 15mm min for a spacer with a built in stud.

http://www.mackinindustries.com/wm/kics/kics.html

 

I think the "bolt on" is what I'm looking for. Do these kits retain the stock tuds and bolt over them?

 

I added 3mm spacers in front at one point - I wouldn't feel comfortable using anything thicker than that without new studs.

FYI, ARP makes excellent wheel studs as well.

 

The Kics ones do exactly that, they attach to OEM studs. A couple friends of mine have them and are quite happy. These are autoxers who's cars see 20+ events each year. If I were to get some now I would try the 15mm Kics spacers with those wheels (I have same). I would feel pretty comfortable about them on the 285 V710, although I hear the A6 is wider, so you might expect some fender contact. I also run about -3 camber, so that helps fender clearance a bit.

 

OK, this is what I was looking for. I know I have to roll the fenders. I'm going to check to see if wheeladapters.com can make me some at 10mm. I don't want to push out my wheels too far since I'm running -2.5 in the front instead of -3.0. Maybe it's time to step up to a -3.0 camber. I'm just afraid of my regular tires wearing out too quickly.

 

Mine aren't rolled.....

 

Really? Are you running the 285 V710's without rolling with the 35 offset? If so..that's good news although I'm a little surprised.

 

You don't have to run -3.0 daily. You can just switch before and after races. That's what I do - I use -3.0 with 1/16th toe out up front for races and -1.5 with 0 toe for daily. I just make the camber/toe adjustments before/after the events. It's pretty easy if you mark the camber plates and tie rods.

 

It's an effective 25mm offset (10mm spacer in front). Only times it has ever rubbed was hitting a good sized bump mid corner on course. That's occured maybe a handful of times all year (20 events give or take).

 

Fred at wheeladapter said he wouldn't make bolt-ons less than .80" (20mm) thick, because there wasn't enough meat for the studs he uses. Kics from Mackin seem like the only chioce if you go thinner.

With longer studs you could also use open lugs for stock wheels, or just use the spacers with stock lugnuts.

 

I guess my only fear with longer wheel studs is the labor involved. I had read that with the right tools and knowledge it would take about an hour per wheel. This means it would take me about two hours per wheel or I would pay a local shop $300 in labor.