I must hereby profess my ignorance on the subject, en toto...I would love the intelligence to adjust the alignment myself for track days, and then back to tire-saving alignment when I am done...I do have Zeal V6s with camber plates.

Any links or definitive know-how would be appreciated.

 

Most people just change their shock settings and some change their toe settings depending on the tire being used when changing from street to auto-x/track ... Camber, castor and height usually don't get changed because the need for dedicated alignment equipment .... unless you are using strings, oh nevermind ...

 

Sorry if this question has been beaten like a dead horse, as I have searched and came up empty...Can't I just change the alignment from the camber plates, and then reset after a track event?

 

Changing camber changes toe also.

 

No because you don't have an accurate way to measuring them ... unless you know exactly what angle each notch equates to, which most people don't. Mind you they will be different valves for both sides even if they are identical notches on the camber plates ...

 

You *can* but you won't like the results. Look at the position of the steering knuckle. It's above the lower ball joint and behind the steering axis. So when you tip the top of the wheel in for more negative camber the knuckle "pushes" the back of the wheel out and it toes in. It's a surprisingly large change! I run about -2.25 degrees up front all the time and only get a little more wear on the inside shoulder.

Dave

 

as long as you have the right equipment, you can. you will need a camber gauge, toe plates and preferrably turning plates. it's much better that way as you can make adjustments on your own and on the fly at the track if necessary...based on your pyrometer and pressure gauge readings. once i get a garage, i will be doing my own (currently in an apartment in socal).

 

What are most people running for the track? I'd assume dialing in more camber as compared to a street driven car?

I was told around -1.5 camber for the front for my daily/weekend tracker. And I could go more aggressive for the track and the offset of more tirewear.

 

Factory specs for front camber is between -1.0 - -2.0. So I'm sure you can run -2.0 w/o getting too much abnormal wear. I run -2.5.

 

I think strings are necessary to square up the car, after that a camber gauge with toe plates (and turnplates if you wish) can be used to make adjustments.

It's not all that hard after you have done it a few times.

 

At a minimum you need desired alignment specs, a way to level the car, a camber (angle) gauge, a tight string setup, and a measuring tape. Above that, turnplates will save a lot of hassle.

 

I figured there was no other way to do it but this way. I only asked to make sure there wasn't some real-world experience that allowed temporary adjustment in order to achieve my ends...The trick seems to be, after having the necessary "kit" of alignment tools, a level surface...Most tracks, I would imagine, have perfectly level alignment areas available.

 

 

I did last summer and fall. Ultimately decided it was too much of a pain in the ***.

I used toe plates and calculated camber using a toe plate, 12" 90deg carpentry thing, and inverse tangent. Ultimately I gave up because I couldn't muscle the rear toe bolts. What a terrible design!

You can adjust relative toe f/r with a toe plate, laser level, and a ruler that comes off the axle line.

 

I am a lazy American, I want a push-button, in cabin, automatic alignment device! ...Hey, they do it with the Teins!