Well, right now I am in the process of selecting my next set of rotors for auto x.
I am currently using Project Mu Level 900 pads with oem rotors.

I was looking a two piece rotor or one piece (a good one). I ask Stoptech for the two piece and they say they will be out on may.

But I needed now. Somebody have experience on the DBA 4000 or the Stoptech one piece on autox.

Any reomendation?

Thanks for the help!!!

 

Racing Brake. They make good affordable rotors for the evo. Stoptech (standard rotors) might be cheap, but they dont have curve vains to help cool bakes when they get too hot.

 

Performance Friction makes a good two piece..

 

bump for a good question

 

You're right but unfortunately this thread will be full of opinons on product x or y with zero proof to substantiate any of the claims.

FWIW, I run Racing Brake 2 piece slotted up front and RB one piece slotted in the back and thus far ~200 miles love them. I also went with Hawk HP+ pads, Goodridge lines, and Motul RBF 600.

The initial bite is not as sharp as the OEM setup but the modulation is excellent and once they get a bit warm it is like dropping an anchor.

All from Kyle at Hot Lap Motorsports. A+

 

I run stoptech slotted 1 piece rotors in front and back with DS 2500 and really like the combination. The pedal doesn't feel so good the first inch or so but the modulation after that is great and the car stops really good. I also have to mention that I run 275 wide tires all around which helps with braking surface.

 

Why slotted rotors? For auto-x you only need flat surfaced rotors. Slotted is unnecessary.

 

How easy to get, and how $$$ are the replacement of PF 2 piece and Racing Brake.


Project Mu cost 225 each, but you have to wait like 60 days (estimate) to get the replacement of the 2 piece.

 

When buying rotors, check for the following:

1. True floating rotors:
Make sure your two piece rotors aren't just two pieces bolted together with grade 8 bolts. Two piece rotors should allow movement between the disc and hub, and must have some kind of positive locking connectors. Cheaper two piece will just use bolts and shims with lock-tight.

2. Make sure the vane design is unidirectional and an efficient, FEA tested solution. Some big names use only one vane direction, making for significant temp differences from left to right.

3. Drilling is universally rejected nowadays. Some people still like slotting, but I use smooth rotors to win my championships.

4. Airflow: make sure air can get up under the disc from both sides. Some two piece rotors force the disc to get air from only one side of the hat, which is not efficient.

I use Racing Brake two piece rotors. The have a patented curved vane unidirectional design, lock-tite free positive locking full-floating hardware, forged aluminum hats, patented center mount disc-hub interface, high quality disc castings with micromachined finish and EDP corrosion resistant coating.

The proof is that I have a set of rear two piece rotors on my race car that have endured the entire 2006 season of racing and testing, the 25 Hours of Thunderhill, and three more events this year including a 3 hour enduro, and are still going strong. The fronts have 'only' the 25 Hour and three events, and are just starting to show a little wear.

 

I have also had great success with the RacingBrake rotors. I use the 332x28mm BBK up front and the 2pc rotors in the rear. I haven't put as much into them as ustcc, but I have done ~12 trackdays with Hawk DTC60 pads.

 

What about DBA 5000 somebudy have experiene with those?

Seems to me a solid rotor.

 

aha i use the RB 2pc and i ate through the rotors in 800 miles
i guess thats what happens when you daily dtc60
i got replacement rings for 181$ a peice and they came next day

 

FYI a 2 piece will bump you into SM if you arent there already..

 

I buy the cheapest **** I can find on ebay and abuse the crap out of them. Just got a set of front and rear slotted rotors for $198 shipped. They might not last as long wear wise as the name brand stuff but I've never had a problem with warping or cracking. Are rear rotors really put under that much stress? I can understand the 2 piece for the fronts but beyond that I think its a waste. I have yet to turn the rear brembos into brownbos.

 

x2

I've been on a set of RotorPro's Slotted, dimpled (not drilled), vented rotors for around 35k street miles and they are holding up excellent. $198 shipped on EBay I believe is what I paid which is an amazing price.

I just completed a two day HPDE @ Summit Point Shenandoah circuit with the above mentioned rotors and they're still in great condition. I'll be gettting another set when the time comes.