Advice on HPDE engine mods
#16
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I heard somewhere that there is a function on the Evo's where the oil cooler only "works" or passes oil through it after it hits a certain temp, as if there was some sort of check valve in place? Anyone know bout this?
Also what aftermarket coolers have you found? Are they universal or specific?
Also what aftermarket coolers have you found? Are they universal or specific?
Unfortunately there doesn't appear to be a good oil cooler solution that isn't outrageously expensive. The Seatrab group buys on the generic coolers have fallen very short of expectations.
Personally I have double stacked 2 stock coolers and this appears to be working well. I will, however, admit that a custom Seatrab unit with mounting brackets, fan, and the correct lines would be a good. If I can convince the local shop that works on my car to put together a kit I will let you know
#17
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Personally I have double stacked 2 stock coolers and this appears to be working well. I will, however, admit that a custom Seatrab unit with mounting brackets, fan, and the correct lines would be a good. If I can convince the local shop that works on my car to put together a kit I will let you know
#18
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I had a feeling you were either going to say 1 track day or 100+
in an advanced classroom session the instructor once told me "beginners need all the brakes in the world and advanced drivers need very little" and also said in a cocky voice "some people still think brakes are for slowing down".
I'm at the point where I'm just starting to not cook my brakes all the time and I have hawk ht10s and full brake ducts and the shields removed. I push very hard but safe in the blue run group and don't get passed much... my lines are slowly getting better and cleaner.
when you upgrade I would get T-clamps everywhere - the stock ones leaked like crazy for me no matter how much I tightened them.
in an advanced classroom session the instructor once told me "beginners need all the brakes in the world and advanced drivers need very little" and also said in a cocky voice "some people still think brakes are for slowing down".
I'm at the point where I'm just starting to not cook my brakes all the time and I have hawk ht10s and full brake ducts and the shields removed. I push very hard but safe in the blue run group and don't get passed much... my lines are slowly getting better and cleaner.
when you upgrade I would get T-clamps everywhere - the stock ones leaked like crazy for me no matter how much I tightened them.
Thanks for the suggestions.
I hate to admit it, but my first race track event (time trial or "time attack") was in 1980. That was in a modified 1971 BMW 2002. I've done quite a few events since then. I'm an instructor for a few clubs in the BMW and Audi groups. In the instructor run group, I typically only get passed by stripped-out trailered cars.
The DS2500s work fine for me with reasonable brake cooling and good braking technique. With engine mods giving a higher speed at the braking points, I may have to try some other pads and/or get the AMS brake duct kit. For me, the DS2500s typically last for 6 track days or so.
Even though I'm on about the 10th set of brake pads for this car and 5th set of tires, I'm still on the original stock clutch, transmission, and T-case. The Evo drivetrain seems very stout for road race track use. I think you get the failures from drag racing. Starts at autocrosses are also hard on the drivetrain. I think most of the wear on my clutch is from autocrossing, not road tracks.
I hate to admit it, but my first race track event (time trial or "time attack") was in 1980. That was in a modified 1971 BMW 2002. I've done quite a few events since then. I'm an instructor for a few clubs in the BMW and Audi groups. In the instructor run group, I typically only get passed by stripped-out trailered cars.
The DS2500s work fine for me with reasonable brake cooling and good braking technique. With engine mods giving a higher speed at the braking points, I may have to try some other pads and/or get the AMS brake duct kit. For me, the DS2500s typically last for 6 track days or so.
Even though I'm on about the 10th set of brake pads for this car and 5th set of tires, I'm still on the original stock clutch, transmission, and T-case. The Evo drivetrain seems very stout for road race track use. I think you get the failures from drag racing. Starts at autocrosses are also hard on the drivetrain. I think most of the wear on my clutch is from autocrossing, not road tracks.
#20
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I'd suggest sticking with the stock turbo personally. Get yourself an upgraded intercooler and piping and dynotune and possibly an 02 Housing or 10.5 hotside and you'll be sitting pretty much where I'm at with my IX (see sig). I also run 17x9 255 RA1's and recently went to PFC01 brake pads all around. I wish I had your suspension! I can keep up with about everything I see that's not horribly modded in the events I do.
Also agree with the T-clamps ALL around.
Also agree with a few gals of 100-104 octane in every tank. I stick with unleaded personally. Spend the $20 to save potentially $5k on a new motor! Get a tune from a reputable shop that you trust and tell them you are going to track the car so they factor that in. Perhaps AMS or Buschur are close enough?
Also curious how DS2500's are good enough? Are you breaking at the 4 markers?
I'm tuned for 23psi, but I don't run that at the track. As you upgrade power, you find the weak links in intercooler hoses, clamps, etc. I want to be on the track, not wrenching under the car!
Btw, I think I've done 9 days on track this year and have more planned.
Also agree with the T-clamps ALL around.
Also agree with a few gals of 100-104 octane in every tank. I stick with unleaded personally. Spend the $20 to save potentially $5k on a new motor! Get a tune from a reputable shop that you trust and tell them you are going to track the car so they factor that in. Perhaps AMS or Buschur are close enough?
Also curious how DS2500's are good enough? Are you breaking at the 4 markers?
I'm tuned for 23psi, but I don't run that at the track. As you upgrade power, you find the weak links in intercooler hoses, clamps, etc. I want to be on the track, not wrenching under the car!
Btw, I think I've done 9 days on track this year and have more planned.
#22
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Intercoolers can help more than you think especially if you are hot lapping the car. Not sure how long or how many sessions you run in your area, but in the midwest I used to see heatsoak (in the form of lower boost) after 2-3 laps on my stock intercooler. Of course, all is relative to your total power output you plan.
If nothing else, an intercooler upgrade is worth some extra hp just by itself!
#23
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I hope you're kidding about the EBC failing... lol... I have one for the safety aspect!!! if my car overboosts for any reason mine beeps like crazy and opens the wastegate protecting me from blowing the car up. They also spool the turbo faster and allow for multiple modes so you're not adjusting the MBC constantly.
#24
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Update.
I'm going ahead with my original outline. I have the GSC S1 cams and Titek O2 housing on hand. The EvoGreen and Nisei intercooler/piping/battery are on order.
I'm trying to get additional power with minimizing the additional stress on the engine. This is the philosphy between the larger intercooler and turbo. These will lower the air temperature going into the engine. I plan to run ~20 psi boost. The mini-battery kit allows room for the shorter intercooler piping (less lag) and hopefully makes up for the higher weight of the intercooler.
Installing the cams this weekend!
I'm going ahead with my original outline. I have the GSC S1 cams and Titek O2 housing on hand. The EvoGreen and Nisei intercooler/piping/battery are on order.
I'm trying to get additional power with minimizing the additional stress on the engine. This is the philosphy between the larger intercooler and turbo. These will lower the air temperature going into the engine. I plan to run ~20 psi boost. The mini-battery kit allows room for the shorter intercooler piping (less lag) and hopefully makes up for the higher weight of the intercooler.
Installing the cams this weekend!
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Update.
I'm going ahead with my original outline. I have the GSC S1 cams and Titek O2 housing on hand. The EvoGreen and Nisei intercooler/piping/battery are on order.
I'm trying to get additional power with minimizing the additional stress on the engine. This is the philosphy between the larger intercooler and turbo. These will lower the air temperature going into the engine. I plan to run ~20 psi boost. The mini-battery kit allows room for the shorter intercooler piping (less lag) and hopefully makes up for the higher weight of the intercooler.
Installing the cams this weekend!
I'm going ahead with my original outline. I have the GSC S1 cams and Titek O2 housing on hand. The EvoGreen and Nisei intercooler/piping/battery are on order.
I'm trying to get additional power with minimizing the additional stress on the engine. This is the philosphy between the larger intercooler and turbo. These will lower the air temperature going into the engine. I plan to run ~20 psi boost. The mini-battery kit allows room for the shorter intercooler piping (less lag) and hopefully makes up for the higher weight of the intercooler.
Installing the cams this weekend!
#26
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The list looks pretty good - but add injectors to your list and at least a drop in filter! Also you need to monitor everything, it would be wise to get at least 3 gauges ( I have 5). Helps a lot and it did prevent couple disasters for me.
I'm sure whoever tracks their car often would agree with me
I'm sure whoever tracks their car often would agree with me