EvoIXMR

iTrader: (66)

How many racers here have a trailer. I am interested in hearing from some basic 16' or 18' open car-hauler owners...

Seems like the lowered Evo's have some issues coming off the trailer and I think this may be due to the axle height or ramp lenght

I am looking at buying an economical trailer and would appreciate any advice.

Thanks

oneguy

iTrader: (23)

Oh how I envy your future trailer queen.

McCall

iTrader: (8)

I have been towing for 4+ years now and did a bunch of research before I bought my Big Tex 18' open trailer. Here's what I have found from personal experience or from racers that I know.

Features to look for in an open trailer:
Get 18'. You'll need the extra space for storage, tool box, tirerack, pitbike, etc.
Bumper Pull/TAG. Save the 5th wheel or gooseneck for a 3/4 ton truck. (not an SUV option)
Dove tail is a must
Roll backs are more complicated, costly and heavier - but are kinda "cool"
Look for a LONG continuous frame rails from the hitch all the way back to the axles
2-1/2" or 2-5/8" bulldog hitch
Hand crank needs to be a bulldog with tilt feature
Needs to be at least a 5-pin round connector (for trailer brakes), not the flat-4
Grommets for all wiring pass-thrus the frame
Trailer MUST be painted or coated underneath (many are bare steel!)
Get loooong ramps that store under the deck. Mine are 4.5' and I'm having them lenghened.
Make sure to get a full steel deck (no wood)
Pay for 4 flush mount D-rings near the far corners of the deck for tow straps
If you can, get a single flush-mount light right dead center on the deck (makes for easy night time loading/strapping!)
Don't skimp on tie downs!
Shock makers like you to tie down by the wheels; wheel makers like you to tie down by the chassis. Both choices have compromises but the frame tie-down makes for a better/more stable tow.
LED tail/brake lights are the best/brightest
Electric trailer brakes on BOTH axles and a trailer brake controller ($80) are must haves!
Removable driver's side fender or high enough deck to clear bottom of your car's driver's door. Double check this!
Add a truck utility box to the front of the trailer for storage of straps and such. Another must!
Demand real trailer tires(load range C) on matching 15" wheels, plus a spare. Choose radials over bias plys.
For a lower deck height, you can invest in drop axles afterwards.

To get these features expect to pay $2000-2500+ but they are worth it in the long run.

EvoIXMR

iTrader: (66)

Wow - Thanks SO SO much for this sort of detail. I started looking at racingjunk.com as someone said there were good trailers there.

Any good places that sells this Big Tex trailer?

McCall

iTrader: (8)

I'm not sure where you are located but I'm lucky enough to be just 2 hours away from the Big Tex plant in Mount Pleasant. I bought mine from them directly but they have a pretty big dealer network http://www.bigtextrailers.com/

I have a 70DM. Here's the specs: http://www.bigtextrailers.com/traile...axle/70DM.html

Good luck!

Mr Chef

I have a 16" open deck Brimar. Got it from TP trailers in Pa. Excellent customer service and best price I could find in the NE:

http://www.tptrailersinc.com/OpenCar...CarHaulers.htm

I have a collection of 6" G force tie downs:

http://www.gforce.com/products/towing.php

And on a reccomendation from a good friend got this Tekonsha Prodigy Electric Brake Controller:

http://www.tekonsha.com/prodig.html

It's really really good stuff, I love the boost control and it is one of the most advanced in it's range I got a good deal on it here:

http://www.etrailer.com/pc-BC~90185.htm


The one thing I'll be adding next season is a trunnion style weight distributing hitch, something like this:

http://www.etrailer.com/pc-WD~66022.htm

As per scraping lowered cars, Yes it will happen unless you can get longer ramps or want to carry some boards. I don't tow my EVO it's my DD but I do tow my Type R which is a track car. I usually scrape just a hint on the underside of my front extended bumper but nothing you can see when you look at it from above. The car is lowered but absolutely Not slammed. If it was lower I would need boards though.

MD@

iTrader: (7)

Honestly, I've never seen any open trailer in the US that is as easy to load a lowered car as an enclosed trailer. You'll need ramps, wooden boards and you might have to remove your bumper. Hope you don't have a huge front splitter. I used to always have to remove my front bumper on my racecar Civic.

Also make sure you have a proper setup on your trailer for tying down the car. Having proper d-rings and tie down points on the car will really help. The last thing you want is for your car to slide on the trailer and tying down a car by yourself with too-long straps and no rings sucks. Trust me.

GTB/ZR-1

iTrader: (30)

A tilt trailer works very nicely & is very easy to load. The bottom of the spoiler will barely scrape the base of the trailer--unless I opt to use 2x4s.

MD@

iTrader: (7)

Hmmm. Is there a significant price difference with a tile trailer and a standard open? I assume they come in aluminum or steel.

GTB/ZR-1

iTrader: (30)

They are a bit more, but definitely worth it... I got mine in late '02 & it was abt $2500 w/ a few options. Yes, steel & aluminum are available.

tahoeacr

iTrader: (3)

Screw it! Just go with this. Not in the budget? I know how that is. Oh well.
Seriously, your getting all good advice. I have been racing and tieing down stuff all my life. Last 15 years have been working for someone else's race team. For an open trailer get at least a gvw of 7,000lbs. Make sure the tires are higher. You might think your only going to haul your car right now. Just wait till your wife wants to due a block wall and you take your trailer down to get 10,000lbs of block . In Ca. you can get a ticket for not using four tie downs I've heard. Don't be afraid to use chains(actual dot regs require something like 5'gs and 15 g's in strength dependant upon direction, lucky no one really checks this with just cars). Troopers like to see that. I've tied down around the tires and to frames. Tires work better on cars with very stiff spring rates ie 1400lb stuff. Tires also have problems if you have air leaks the straps fall off. If you use straps, always stop and check them after 100 miles. Straps tend to stretch some and seat a little. Especially when new. Whatever trailer you get, you should have the tongue doubled. Most tongues are just 4x3 channel. Have another row welded underneath the first. Get the trailer jack mounted well back on the tongue so you can drop the tailgate without hitting it. Being a noob, this well help you in backing up the trailer with the tail gate down. As everyone says, dovetail and carry lots of wood(also good if you get a flat). Sometimes you have to unload on uneven ground. I could rattle on more but I need another cup of coffee.

MD@

iTrader: (7)

Out of curiosity, where do you guys all park your trailers? I have to leave mine at a buddy's shop and let him use it because of the storage space. I have no space in my driveway or street.

EvoIXMR

iTrader: (66)

I plan on using a buddies back yard. I have no space in my townhome

0100

iTrader: (63)

I have a 24' pace enclosed with a E350 diesel. I sleep in the back of the van at the track which saves on motel costs. I really like the enclosed over an open. You can hold so much more and it's nice when it's raining out.

EVO8LTW

iTrader: (41)

+1 on enclosed over open. I've towed with both and the enclosed is MUCH nicer once you are at the track. It's definitely harder to back up though since you are completely blind behind you.