Thank you Matt! Yeah, competing in a 60-car class really makes you want to change to something a little less popular. You basically have to lay down a hero run on each day to even break the top 10. Maybe next year I'll do GP...

 

I saw an ad for a set of used flags. You might check the suspension for sale forum.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ighlight=ohlin

 

That is an awesome deal! Someone here better jump on that!

 

Saw them. Sadly, if I had $3k out of pocket on hand I would still have Chris' coilovers. I'm looking come spring or summer

 

V3s have a ton of sag, just valve them for the spring and go!

 

Season may be winding down for you guys but for us in the desert it's just starting up!

I need some help trying to get my 285/30/18 Pirelli Corsas to fit properly on my car and need some tips. I run them on 18x9.5 Rota P45Rs (originally a 350Z fitment) with a +30 offset. Have rolled and pulled the rear fenders so that's OK but the front fitment is still an issue.

No clearance issues at all with the front fenders with -3.2 degrees camber up front and they clear my big Endless calipers fine but I need to worry about the inside of the tires rubbing on the shocks (currently they just barely clear by about 0.5cm).

The biggest issue is with rubbing the fender liners and especially rubbing the inner frame when I'm at full lock though. This is especially important since we tend to run on much tighter courses in Dubai than you guys do in the States...tight 180 degree turns and 360 degree turns are pretty much a given here so full lock and no rubbing up front is VERY important for us (as is traction of course).

I'm thinking of going the spacer + wheel studs + hubcentric rings route to fix things up but am wondering if using spacers might solve one problem (rubbing the shocks or the inner frame) while worsening the rubbing on the front and rear of the inner wheelwhells (where the fender liners are). My theory is that if I were to use spacers and extended studs then the wheels would travel through a greater distance front to rear due to the larger arc the wheels travel through due to the spacers sticking out from the original hub location (pivot point).

I've already cut away most of my inner liners anyways but I still get rubbing on the rear of the front fender liners (near and just to the inside of where the side skirt is) as well as having some nice big rub marks on the frame ahead of where the shocks are since the 205s stop be from being able to go full lock to lock.

Any big tire guys out there have a clue how to work this stuff out? I'm curious what effect different spacers might have; any advantage to using 10mm spacers up front vs. 5mm ones (due to the wider track) or would the rule be to use the minimum size spacer possible?

I'm hoping that I can get the fitment issues all sorted out it since at the moment I'm stuck running 255 street tires in the Modified class here just to avoid rubbing (our Modified class basically encompasses *everything* equivalent to your typical SCCA STU, BSP, SM and FP cars all in one category). I'm driving my little heart out of course but am still losing roughly a second or two to the big boys on the full slicks (still about 4 seconds off the guys in the FP-equivalent cars with their stipped out cars and hydraulic handbrakes etc.). Challenging but sort of frustrating when you have 285s sitting around collecting dust

Any help appreciated!

 

There are many fitment issues that need worked out when running 285's. Really the issues vary depending not only on type of tire and wheel used...but your suspension setup....such as spring stiffness and ride height.
Your setup to avoid rubbing will vary from mine because I run different wheels and Hoosiers which have the biggest section width.
For me I not only run a custom sized wheel in the front but I also use a 6mm spacer...with my +22 offset front wheels. For the rear I run a different offset..+36.
I still got some rubbing in the front at full lock...which had to be delt with as it appeared. There are some sharp metal edges under the front liner that should be delt with. After that you might just rub some holes in the plastic liner..no big deal.
It takes some trial and error to get it just right with your setup. A lot of it is hard to deal with until you put them on and deal with each issue as it pops up.

 

I see your point - when it comes to mms here and there everything is probably different for each person. Oh well..

I suppose I could ask you one thing - whether you think running spacers helped rubbing and what differences you noticed in terms of frame rubbinf and front-rear wheelwell/fender liner rubbing after installing spacers? To put it simply - did the spacers help rubbing at all or were they merely a way for you to get the track width/brake clearance you wanted etc.?

I'm guessing that my Pirelli Corsas have a relatively large section width but I'll have to hit up the Tire Rack site to be sure (compare with Hoosiers etc.). I'd not mind getting V710s or something but alas, budget is limited and those Corsas are just lying there mocking me for running street rubber

Cheers!

 

If you have a papers sheet of clearance from the shock body, then your fine. The shock and wheel move together, so the distance between them won't change.

 

I think you need a few millimeters (3-4?) for tire movement. Ask me how I know...

 

Yeah I kind of prefer a decent amount (about 5mm or so) of clearance between the tire and shocks to account for sidewall flex, vibration etc. etc. When running less than that I could see a bit of rubber printing on the springs with the 285s - not so good for the tires or the shocks.

For the heck of it, I'm asking you how you know though chmodif

Did a bit of checking around today - a local shop has some 15mm H&R spacers for the Evo in stock. I'm told that if I go less than 15mm with the H&R spacers they don't come with the extended studs, meaning that the spacers + rims might not fit right leading to vibration etc. (not to mention creating a weak point when your're running 285s and pulling 1.3 or more Gs).

Kindof wondering how much the +30 offset 9.5 inch Rotas would stick out with 285 rubber and a 15mm spacer on there - I run .3.2 degrees of negative camber up front so there seems to be plenty of fender room. They've offered a test fitting next week (currently too busy preparing for the season opener of the UAE Touring Car Championship to do small stuff like this) so in the meantime I'm wondering if anyone here has any (bad) experience running such huge spacers, or with the H&R spacers in general. If my math is correct, with the spacers on there I'd be runnign something like a +15 effective offset up front with those spacers on O;O

At least I'd be getting some serious clearance on the inside frame...might even be enough...but much to find out

If EVOlutionary's around, I remember he posted some pics of fender modifications he did too (when fitting 285s I believe) - would hugely appreciate it if he could repost or if somebody knows the link (yes, I am using the search as we speak!).

Any help and tips always appreciated as usual, thanks!

 

On my car I run a 285-30-18 A6 or V710. With similar camber to your car I have some rubbing on rear of front fender/liner and a little on the chassis in front.

This is with 18x9.5 +35 offset. With V710 I only needed a 10mm (effective +25)spacer and there was MINIMAL rubbing. The f-in hoosiers are a whole different deal. They rub in front, behind and require a 15mm spacer (effective +20). I also had to roll/pull the front fenders to clear with the hoosiers, not necessary w/v170's.

I'm running the ARP studs all around as they are about the longest I found and nicely made. Some of the others have large cross section changes and sharp edges (stress risers).

You WILL need tire to strut clearance. I would say about 2-3mm is a minimum. Any more is great, any less is asking for contact. Most of it is tire deflection, but can also be spring buckle, springs shift on coilovers, wheels deflect, etc.

Also you may experience rubbing on the rear trailing arm. This occurs with V710's or A6's. Particularyl bad with the A6 though. The "seam" left over from casting or forging the arm is gone on both my arms.

HTH.

John

 

Agree 100%. With a Hoosier most people will need an effective offset of +15-20 depending on the wheel...less with other tires.
From what I've seen with the Rota's you will have some serious issues in the front when you run a 285 with the necessary spacer. From what I've seen they stick out too far.
I also did a little pulling on the front fender for outside clearance. The worst place was part of the chassis seam under the plastic liner. Once I wore through the plastic there was some sharp metal that put some small cuts on my Hoosiers. I had to do a little light hammering to take care of it.

 

great feedback guys...will test fit those spacers, buy a hammer and be real nice to the bodyshop ppl

 

I looked all over for the thread I posted the pics of where I hammered the body seam back. For the life of me I can't remember where I posted it. . .

The info posted so far should get you where you need to be. Are the Rotas you have the ones with 5 wide thick spokes? If so, I can tell you that they are VERY flexible. I have a friend with them and the first time he took it out on the road course they flexed so much they ground into his caliper. . .

If you are going for 10 or 15 mm spacers I would recommend Ichiba and then H+R. I would recommend the ARP extended studs and the spacers that just slide between the wheel and the hub.

Personally I don't like the kind of spacers that have studs built into them . . .

EVOlutionary