It always helps when you don't have to pay even close to full price. I use ZX3R's with lightweight titanium hardware for my autox and road course setup. They look so good on the car I might also start using them for my daily summer wheel.

 

theshadow,
You definitely get more rub than I did. I rubbed a hole and only made contact with about 3/4" of body seem. Hardly any really. I'm willing to bet if I had simply switched to another tire like a V710 (vs the ultra wide Hoosier) I may not have had any rub. It can definitely be more difficult with certain wheels. Looks like you'll be ok with a little trial and error fitting though.

 

Ive read somewhere that the 285/30/18 is actually a shorter tire than the 275/40/17.
The only time I run into rub issues (275/40/17 pinched on factory wheels with 1/4" front spacers ) is when I am nearly at full lock, which only happens when Im offline and out of control anyways. It was really bad on the very wide Avons I was running, not so much on 710s.

 

Are there other clearance issues to worry about, or as long as I get the same 6.69" Back spacing that the WebSports have will I be fine? There are a few other wheels that fit the spec. Some 10.5" wheels,

Also, are you running 11" front wheels with no other modifications to the front for clearance?

 

Depends on what you mean by affordable. I went with the Daddio setup:

18x10" Enkei RP03 (offset 22 mm) front wheels
18x9.5" Enkei RPF1 (offset 38 mm) rear wheels

These were around $350-$400 each, so not cheap, but lighter than the stock wheels and less expensive than the stock wheels bought from Mitsubishi.

You only need a 3mm spacer on the rear to prevent some mild rubbing of Hoosiers on the trailing arm at low pressures (the V710's don't need the spacer). No spacer on the front. No need to lengthen the studs. (I haven't broken a stud all season.)

 

I sent you a PM.

 

I'm thinking of trying some wider tires. Something like 315's

 

If 315's would fit and still meet the SP rules, I would have for sure already put them on.

 

Question for the board.... I have OEM rims with OEM tires and a very limited budget (child support payments FTL) I'm planning on going with the 255 Dunlop Z1's next season. My suspension mods are BR coil-overs and a Hotchkis rear sway. Should i really be that worried about suspension settings? Also what are recommended tire pressures are you guys running with the Z1's?

I'm currently in Iraq right now (again) and this is the second time my seasons' been cut short *sigh* I'm just trying to get a jump on next year. Hopefully i'll actually be able to complete a season.

Keep the shiny side up y'all.

 

I was getting "ok" results with 33f 35r on the 255/40/17 Z1's but I'm on stock suspension with not a whole lot of camber up front.

 

Why are you in BSP? Tuned? Hard intercooler pipes? Intercooler?

If you're in BSP, wouldn't be be better off getting better tires than D1s?

If you were in STU, then the D1 is a no-brainer. But then you get stuck with soft intercooler pipes, 245 max tire width and no boost control.

On D1s with my X and 3*/2* neg camber, I've been running 32-35#. My buddy with a VIII and D1s was running almost 40 to prevent scrub... but he's on stock alignment and suspension. I've got super stiff coilovers.

 

15.2.A
Fenders and bumpers may be modified for tire clearance. This
includes the portion of a hood which serves as a fender/wheel
well, where applicable. This does not permit modifications to the
chassis or bodywork inboard of the vertical plane of the hubwheel
mounting face. Flares may be added although tires may
extend beyond the bodywork.


This seems to allow cutting the fenders. Wouldn't that make for the needed clearance? The tires are stock diameter.

 

@ Lil red 03: If you're truly limited for budget I'm guessing the reason you're into the D1s and not full slicks is that you hope to use the same tires for AutoX and daily driving right?

If you're stuck on stock rims and ONE set of tires then yep I'd think that the D1s are surely the way to go, but maybe in 245 and not 255 since I think the stock rims are only 8 inches wide - not sure 255s would fit the stockers very well.

Always nice to go for bigger rubber if you can afford it (and it's allowed under the regs) but I reckon you can learn alot more about driving on street tires than on slicks and in the end, if you drive well and some guy on slicks doesn't you'll still be in the hunt (and with a fuller wallet).

So yeah - I'd say 245 D1s for your stock rims, not sure about tire pressure but I usually start at around 34-35 and work up or down form there using the old "chalk" method - quite often pump the rears up a bit to loosen up that back end.

Since you have coilovers (and camber plates I'm assuming) you can do quite alot with your suspension too - dial in that front camber, set the ride height up, set up the damping to transfer weight around.

Rear sway is also a good call. I have coilovers and a whiteline rear sway and I acutally like the way the car handles on street tires better than on the 285s I'm currently on - much more chuckable.

Anyways, I'm rambling a bit so gonna cut it short with - you have lots to tinker with and should have good potential with your setup I reckon. Save a little now, have some decent all around tires, get your setup dialled in and then get dedicated rims and slicks later

BTW I had lots of fun chasing guys on slicks last time I autoXed on street tires

 

goofygrin - i'm in BSP because of my JDM bumper (it was on the car when i bought it) I'm doing pretty well at the events i actually get to. I have two second-place finishes (one to an evo on Kuhmos and one to a ringer m-3).

shadow - yeah, your right. My track car is my daily as well. Thanks for the advice on the rears. I'll keep that in mind.

Thanks again and look forward to seeing you guys at the track next season. Hell - 1 month down, only 5 to go LOL

 

uh, JDM bumpers are not SP legal. You can run them in STU and in SM.