I can relate with the power issue. At 320whp and 300wtq my evo had way too much power for a novice doing autocross. To top if off I had stock suspension. I was in the SM class in SCCA and had trouble learning to autocross while being in a very competitive class. It took a while but now use the power as an advantage and no longer have completely stock suspension. I have a much better feel for the whole thing. The funny thing is it wasn't until I started doing track events on a road course that I really learned to drive smoother, faster and step up my autocross.

 

only issue i have with the pc680mj which i run now is the car is my daily driver and sometimes i skip a day or 2 of driving since i live next door to work. and if i do the car is usually dead if its cold out which happens here a lot..

i would rather keep the mini bat but i need my car to start haha.

as far as mods go basically everything has been upgraded but the stock 03 turbo.

injectors 880cc
Fuel rail perrin
fuel pump 255
cams / gears
clutch act street
tein s tech springs
short shifter with brass bushings
full 3" turbo back
built 2.0 motor
hks intake
bushur racing delux fmic and short pipes
hks ssq bov
defi gauges oil press/boost/egt
pc680mj mini bat
hallman manual mbc
utech


Question on the battery are you guys running the pc680 or the pc680mj would it make a difference i know its just a metal jacket but maybe thats my problem? i dont know atm if i dont drive my car for a few days i have to trickle charge it bat checks perfectly fine on a checker though ....... and alt aswell

 

I was using the pc680 on my old Mazda 323 GTX, and that car only saw intermittant use. If it wasn't left on a trickle charger, it wouldn't start. I'd skip the mini battery for winter use, and think about re-installing it in May when the auto-x season starts....though if your IC piping requires a mini battery, mounting a full sized battery in the trunk starts to become a better looking option.

Dave

 

What event did you attend Evoisdream?

Check out RMsolo.com, that is th e local SCCA region. we have winter auto-x's where you get allot of runs, anyone can ride with you, ect. If you can brave the cold, its really worth it to come out to those. You would be in SM (street mod) with all those modifications. its a class that allows R-comps, but Id stick to street tires your first year, its a better learning experience, R-comps hide mistakes.

As for the 4 points, if you get a set that is ASM (anti-submarining) you would be OK on a track. still not the best setup, but they are proven to combat the flaws of regular 4-points.

 

There's also the issue of having a roll over (not at all likely at auto-x, more likely at a track) with 4 points on, having the roof cave in, and having nowhere for your head to go, which could result in a broken neck. Its a slim possibility, but I think unless you have some sort of roll hoop or cage (i.e. reinforcements that are above your helmeted head), you're better off using a CG lock and the stock belt at the track.

Dave

 

For rollovers you are correct. theres tradeoffs everywhere, I personally hate CG locks, id rather just do the twist trick. but, both pale in comparison to harnesses in their ability to hold you in the seat.

 

I had similar experience with my PC680.
Evoisdream, your car is only lacking in the suspension department. If you don't tell anyone about your built engine or UTEC, that's pretty close to a BSP car, and for your fitst season you could run BSP-ST, or SM-ST (street tire), and street tire is in it's own class where I think you could do well and have fun without being a total oddball regarding classing.
Then as you improve you may want to try r-comps, and you car could probably be a competitive BSP or SM car with just your current mods, suspension and r comps.

 

I've never used one, but always though they looked neat. Back when I raced my miata, I'd lean into the middle of the car, get as much slack out of the belt, then pull hard to lock the belt, then try to wiggle my way back under it. Seemed to work pretty well.

As you said though, there's no replacement for a proper racing seat and a harness. I'm using Racetech head restraint seats, HANS device, and 6-point Schroth harnesses, and you literally feel like part of the car once you're all snugged in.

Dave

 

Your car would be in the SM. I used to use my PC680 semi daily w/o issue, but I use a trickle charger that came with a quick disconnect now. The connector could be mounted in the grill for easier access. I have a non-MJ that I wrapped in the stock plastic corrugate to insulate it, but it doesn't get that cold here. Maybe go up one size?

You really only need a decent set of mid-line coil-overs and some wider wheels, to have car that will be very competitive for a long time.

Look up warrtalon out in CO, his Evo is nicely set-up. Also Evobeasti is parting out his SM Evo and has some good deals.

 

the event i did was at bandimere with the RM porshe group great group of people btw. Anyways im not that concerned about more mods on the car just want to make sure im legal and safe and get more time in. i honestly was having a hard time just finding when and where events will be held.

so i think the plan will be to get a decent coil over mainly cause im not 2 happy with the s-techs from 03 haha and some decent street tires.

im still torn on the battery thing i have a whole setup ready for the trunk here at work will only cost me about 120$ total including the battery. but if the pc680 is a common thing people run i might try and just deal with the trickle charger like i always have.

and i have to have a mini bat for the IC pipes. i have looked at a lot of warrtalons stuff it is really nice. i never payed a lot of attention as i had never done anything but drag.

what do you guys suggest for coilovers? i was looking at the megan track series and BC but dont know a ton about spring rate or what im looking for in a mid - good setup. (other then price and what the big boys run)

 

The RM region does not have street tire classing besides STS/X/U and a street tire stock-indexed class. cars gotta be stock though. We stick very closely to national classisn and rules.

Also, his cams, cam gears, ect. numerous things put him in SM, theres no way he could slide into BSP without anyone catching on.

Again, www.RMsolo.org


The megans would probably be great for you right now, everything within that range is going to be about the same. If possible, try and get a setup where the rear springrate is ~20% higher than the front, or if you can choose your own.

 

Gotcha. Down here the Rio Grande region has ST and any class can run with ST as a class modifier, and if you are honest about your mods, explain you are a novice and ask if they mind you being in a class despite it, many members won't protest you if they know they are good enough drivers to beat you anyway.

I told him I thought he'd be better off with Bilstein HDs, springs, and camber plates than anything built by BC, but he could learn just fine on those too I suppose.

 

yeah i think the megan track ones were 10front 12 rear. also what the hell is a CG lock and where can i get it i had it explained a bit to me from my buddy but how does it work exactly seems like a decent fix for a bit well i learn to drive

 

sigh i just looked and most of the scca stuff is on sunday and i fricken work sundays bleh..

 

Time to get a new, higher paying, non-sunday job!