first off let me start by saying i don't want this to be another thread of I am new i want a big turbo etc ha ha

i attended my first auto X last Saturday and it was probably the most fun i have had in my evo ever.

i have had the car since 03 and its been mainly set up to drag (which is just lame compared to turns! ha ha) anyways i need a lot more seat time and honestly need to learn to drive but i do want to do a few things since i like parts! main thing i would like is a set of harnesses and some coils.

So.... my question is what do you need to be legal for auto x and DE R.R. events i know each track each club etc changes but is there a basic set of rules. for example are the Schroth 4 point harnesses ok as long as they are installed correctly to the stock locations with a harness bar? also what about batteries etc im about to relocate mine to the trunk it will be a dry cell fully sealed optima that i will battery box aswell.

 

Be careful with too many modifications... they'll bump you into tough classes to compete in.

 

Don't do the 4 point belts. Either run your stockers with a CG Lock and Binary lowering brackets, or go full out and get a 5-6 point and a real seat and a roll cage.

 

4 point harnesses are okay for Autocross, but are not very safe for the track. Some people think it's unsafe, but you can install harnesses without a harness bar by using the rear seat mounts, especially for a 4-point that will be used for autocross. For road racing if you're using anything other than stock seat and stock belt, I'd definitely invest in a full bucket and 5-6 point harness that's properly installed.

 

Agree 100% on what hokiruu said on the harness. Fine for auto-x, but bad idea on the track unless you have a full roll cage.

Sounds like you have the right idea that parts aren't the answer to getting faster. I'd recommend spending the $$ that's burning a hole in your pocket on getting out to extra events, or attending a driving school.

If you plan to do track events, at a minimum, you'll need to upgrade your brake pads, lines, & fluid. I don't think any of those mods will bump you into a different class, but I haven't auto-x-ed in a while so my recollection of the rule book isn't very good. For tires, I'd recommend that you get a decent set of summer tires, stay away from the R-compound race tires at first, as they tend to hide driving mistakes.

Have fun!

Dave

 

exactly the info i was looking for i have a good friend that has been doing both of these for a very long time and is telling me pretty much the same thing. i just was not 100% sure if its all the same as he does all his stuff with a Porsche club i figured it was..

i actually already ordered the binary seat brackets should be here Friday i cant wait i was smacking my helmet on the roof haha.

thanks for the advice on the mods aswell the car is no where near stock so im not exactly sure where that puts me for most stuff NASA SCCA etc but for the one i did it was just a basic Exhibition group.

the coils i really wanna do cause im on S tech springs and stock struts etc from 03. not that i think they are that bad but i have wanted it for a long time anyways.

Any recommendations on tires? i am currently on some pretty poor Khumo all seasons should i just murder them well i learn to drive? or try out a decent street tire?

 

Thanks!!! i have been following all your racing. my buddy i was talking about in my previous post is actually a cert instructor for DE events so im starting right i think. honestly i don't care a ton right now about competing placing etc i just wanna have fun and learn but its the end of the season .

i do have some hawk pads from when my stockers went out i know they are not exactly the best etc but at least its not stock? Thanks again guys

 

If you've already got springs on the car, those are enough to dump you into a 'non stock' class, so my guess is you'll be running in street mod, or something similar. If you're already in that class, full coilovers are allowed. I'm not up on choices for street stuff, but I've been supremely happy with my rally Ohlins (thanks to AMS for finding them!). Coilovers go from mild to wild in terms of pricing, but if you're wanting to get something you can grow into, I'd recommend checking out the threads in this forum about auto-x suspension options to see how things really stack up. Do it right the first time so you don't have to spend the $$ twice. Been there, done that on previous cars....1st KYBs, then KONIs, the GABs, then DMS.

If you've got street Hawk pads, I'm guessing you've got the HP+. I used those for DD in my supercharged miata and they were great for street and auto-x. I got them to fade 2 laps into running around 2nd Creek (RIP), and the next track day I had a set of Hawk Blacks. No fade, but terrible screeching until they were warm.

Def. sounds like you're on the right track. When you're first starting out, it's all about seat time...and trying to stick on the back of some of the faster guys to see their lines. Also, if you get the chance, I always find it invaluable to ride along with faster guys...sometimes that will open your eyes to what's possible with these awesome cars...just remember to slowly work your way up to their speed.

Dave

 

yeah i actually think i did ok given the guys i raced were all basically NA lower HP cars most of them have been doing auto x etc for a long long time some were instructors. i had the 13th best time of 56 cars. a lot of them i beat were full blown track cars.

But i know for a fact a lot was due to the power i have etc i did not drive good looking back walking the track and planning was only thing i did right ha ha. corners were bad first run i was on and off the gas like i had never driven before.

you are correct about the pads and i have been reading like crazy like i always do still might hold off for a bit on those.

 

BTW congratulations on seeing the light and discovering the whole other world where the Evo shines. I am pretty new to organized racing, but I can tell you the following from personal experience as a novice:

- Get as much seat time as possible, and don't worry about being fast or competitive, just focus on being safe, becoming comfortable, and improving.
- Ride with other drivers and get them to ride with you as much as possible. I usually had someone with me for one or two runs per 5-6 run event, and rode with other maybe once or twice per similar event, and in hindsight I didn't do either nearly enough! Last weekend was the SCCA Rocky Mountain Divisional, the region's 13 or 14th event, and after my THIRD passenger of one of the days, I realized I had been driving completely wrong all season, in ways that I had not and would have not realized without them taking me along, riding with me, and driving my car. If only I had taken more advantage of others' input all season, I'd probably be much better off today!

- With only a TBE, Walbro, IX DV, and MBC, I realized that my car's power delivery was not helping me, and quickly de-modded to even closer to stock to make the power more manageable and to remove variables from my performance in order to isolate my own driving performance. Not saying you should do the same, but something to keep in mind. It's not as attractive as modding, but once you get over the mod/power bug, "keeping it simple" by going to as many events as possible, and focusing on driver improvement, suspension, tires, and good ol' maintenence is at least as satisfying in a different way.

- My first Autocross on the Tein springs (came with my car) was my last. Get rid of those ASAP for something that won't bottom out and blow your struts!

- I can't say enough good things about the Dunlop Direzza Z1 star Specs, and their race results and reviews speak for themselves anyway. You just can't go wrong with them, and especially for a good price to boot!

- Shameless plug: I will probably be selling my JIC FLTA2s for cheap in the next month, PM me if you're interested.

You're on CO, and some CO drivers come to the same events we do in Farmington, NM. There are some great nationally competitive Evo and Sti drivers in the region/division, and sucky slow noobs me. Depending where you are, maybe you could come!

Interesting anecdote: Many professional Japanese race Evos including the Tsukuba record-holding HKS TRB02 and it's predecessor, the Cyber Evo, etc. have harnesses installed at about a 45 degree angle to the rear mounts or floor, AND they have full cages! Does this mean it's a good idea and safe? Probably not, especially given the Japanese' complete disregard for what is considered standard safety precaution here in the US, but interesting nonetheless.

 

thanks for the info hokiruu the car is not stock at all other then the 03 16g lol i have a built 2.0 even. i agree on the tein springs i have not been happy with them for a long long time. other then that i had no intentions of adding more power thought about sway bars. but from what i hear i need to just drive like i figured.

in the scca events etc is it like a time attack style? or are cars bumping etc?

also anyone have any good ideas for practicing during off season snow etc. there is an indoor cart track close to me i was thinking that?

Thanks again

 

SCCA does have wheel to wheel racing, but Solo is just that, one car on the autocross course at a time (or spaced far enough apart that there's little chance of them coming close to each other.)
Karting is fun and good practice. There are a lot of good books to read in the off-season too.

 

*Shameless plug* There is also a driving school in Steamboat Springs, the Bridgestone Winter Driving School (full disclosure: I work there ) that teaches winter driving techniques...and performance driving. Once you've taken a course, you can rent out a track in the mornings and take your evo out there. You can also do private instructions as well, but I'm not sure on current pricing for either. Only stipulation is that the underside of the car must be thoroughly cleaned, you car can't have any leaks, and you have to run bare tires (snow tires encouraged, just no studs). See www.winterdrive.com for more info on the classes offered.

I've got a kart that I use in the off season. If you plan on doing it enough, you might consider picking up a used shifter kart. Denver Craigslist had 3 decent ones for sale under $3500 last night. Daily track fees run about $35.

Dave

 

Hi,

Most, if not all of us run a small (~13lb Oddessey PC680, etc.) sealed battery, under the hood. That way you don't add the wt. and hassle of long cables to the trunk. I have a light mounting kit if needed. Optimas are too heavy.

+1 on the Dunlop Z1s if you want to stay on street tires, go as wide as possible with a fender roll.

Please list your mods and we can help recommend any key parts to optimize your car for SCCA AX class rules. With your turbo it sounds like a perfect fit for the Street Mod class. But I would hold off a bit before buying anything yet, because it's easy to buy the wrong parts.

Rick

 

Can't go wrong with as many Whiteline bushings as you can handle...they're cheap and they make a tangible difference to how the car feels and handles.

When you go for coilovers, be sure to get front camber plates as well (adding camber makes a big difference to your front grip), and the whiteline roll centre kit is a must have in order to preserve the geometry of your front suspension if you're going to lower the car.

As others have said, it's not necessary to spend a bomb - a reasonably priced of coilovers (well set up), whiteline bushing kits, whiteline rear sway bar and camber plates are all you'd ever really need. For brakes, pads, SS lines and fluid would do fine.

I'd stay on 17s for as long as possible due to lighter weight and price too.

You can have a whole lot of fun with a low-medium range setup and not feel like you're short changing yourself - then you can spend the big bucks on trackdays, HPDEs and AutoX entry fees + petrol!