ok... project killed.

it was a nice thread though

 

i still wanna hear it from you once the bees & birds come out..

 

Nils I'm glad you posted that. You'd have been very upset after spending 2k on a shifter. Save it for a dog-engagement gear set!

 

True. Driving the WRX and EVO rally cars with a dog box was SWEET! Up shifts are a micro lift and slam it in - no clutch. And downshifts are the standard rev match and pop it in - no clutch. I actually clutchless down shift the EVO on the stock tranny.

 

i like short shifters the lower the better it looks cool but ill stay old school H. look like a lot of work too

 

I don't even wanna guess what a sequential gearbox would cost.
It's one of the things I like about bikes. A $200 quick-shifter, and you just leave it WFO, and bang away on up-shifts.

 

[QUOTE=nils;6498243]it converts a H pattern to a straight up & down scenario.... its not really a sequntial shifter cause you still gotta use the clutch...QUOTE]

A true sequential shifter is ised on a dogbox. If you get a dogbox no clutch required when shifting gears. I read somewhere these dont work so good with a stock tranny.

Nils get a hold of SouthCoast Mitsu their orange Evo has one installed it.

 

I would look into the SQS Racing or Kaps shifters, both work very well. As for the Ikeya... that thing is just garbage.

 

I've been on the fence about this shifter as I'm getting ready to drop serious $$ on a dog-box. I've done quite a bit of reading on how to treat your dog-box to assure "long life" and it seems that lightning fast shifting is key. Have you guys ever driven a car with a dog-box and one of these ikea shifters?

I'd agree that there's probably no reason to use one of these on a standard syncro gearbox since you should be clutching the upshifts anyways.

Thanks,

Dave

 

Dave, I'm installing a Ralliart Dogbox on my Evo II this winter. I don't think that I'd trust that shifter on such a gearbox simply because it's not easily adjustable and the results are somewhat innacurate once the Ikeya is installed. It would work "better" with a dogbox but I've never tried it on one. I've driven several Evos with Dogboxes, one Evo 7 and one Evo II rally car like my car. I've also driven an STI with a dogbox. Another poster commented on the KAPS shifter. I think that it's designed for the KAPS box, not for use with the syncronized Evo box.

Alex

 

My old rally car, a Mazda 323 GTX had a dog-box in it, but it didn't last very long. When it worked it made the car feel like a rocket ship (short ratio, 5th was a 1.13). I was told by the trans hop that fabbed up a new dog ring for it that the degign of it wasn't condusive to longevity (dog ring very thin). One of the dog-rings exploded on me after only 500 ish miles of driving. Luckily it was 5th, so we just pulled off the inspection cover and removed the bits and ran the rest of the season with a 4 speed.

I was just thinking that one of these things would prevent a slow shift, or prevent me from missing a gear if I shifted right as the car was hitting a bump or something. The guys in the video seem to be having no issues with these things, so I'm wondering if maybe they just take a bit to get them functioning properly?

Dave

 

OK the shifter was on the car for three track days and a bunch of regular driving, so here is the impression.

WOW, the shifter location in ten times better than stock. Neat as heck shifting. On the track its right there next to the wheel. Having gone back to the stock shifter now I am disgusted by its location, even for town driving.

The shifter is well designed and built, but golly gee wizz why the h-e(double)l can't they do the instructions in english?

Now for the issues that made me wish I could read Japanese:
Gears 1,2,3,4 went in about how they should have, but number five was reluctant to enter and harder still to downshift out of. Reverse which can be choosy to begin with, was certainly no better than stock, requiring me to shift part way, let the clutch out, and then feel for the final engagement.
I can't recall if the fifth gear issue evolved or was consistent from install to removal. I have the feeling a really proper adjustment might fix the problem.

In a three hour hard driven track day I would miss on average three gears. When a gear change is not complete the shifter remains in limbo until you ratchet it up or down a gear... which means you are now a gear away from where you wanted to be. I can't say for certain if it was a weak wristed shift or a twisted frame or a weak link in the shifter. ( sometimes I'll shift at the most awkward times) So I don't know how to ring that up.



I have spoken to another Ikeya shifter owner who has a issue that was not the same as mine, so it may be that my problem and his could be troubleshooted out.
There is or may be a possibility of adjustment in the linkage.

I was reluctant to replace it and am now unhappy with the stock location.

 

put some long spacers & move up that oem shifter.. lots of guys do it

 

That is what I did to my shifter. It moves it to a better position and fells like it should have been there to start with.

 

Ok so we have had this installed on our demo car

The shift location is perfect and the engagement from 2nd -5th is spot on. Its positive...its perfect and I love it!


BUT up or downshifting into first gear is HORRIBLE. Its a 50/50 crap throw that it will not grind. It has gotten so bad that I have been bypassing 1st gear all together and just use 2nd gear to take off. I will fiddle with it a bit more tomorrow and if I can not fix it I am ripping this thing out