I failed at the search button if anyone knows where i can find this info please post it up thanks in advance

Im asking for your input as to your personal likings to suspension set-up for auto-x events
my car is in street mod class and i use whatever i can find deals on for r comp. rubber last set was advan ao32r s compound,,,
I used a -3.0 front camber 0 toe and around 33 psi in the tires
for the rear i used -1.9 camber 0 toe and adjusted pressure to keep it nuetral

the susp. i used was the jic flt-a2 w\plates normal 10k/9k springs but they were supposedly custom valved from mueller i got them 2nd hand so i dont know the specs on them,, but 5-7 clicks from full hard seemed to work best


I guess mostly what im asking is what works for you guys everyone has a different driving style and different setups ,,, do any of you mess with toe at all ,, does my camber seem too aggresive any input would be helpfull
Side note i used the same settings at lapping days as well worked okay on street tires there minus the braking.

 

I run the same camber but with stiffer coils and it's more car than I can handle (getting there).

I try and toe out in front at events just a touch and it definitely helps on the slaloms.

 

You should swap the springs front-to-rear (so it's 9k Front and 10K Rear) to you have more rate in the back. That's how the balance needs to be.

I like a touch of toe out in the front, like 1/16" per side, helps turn in.

 

actually im kinda happy with the spring rates the way they are (comparing to other evo coilovers) they seem a little light duty for high speed events but at the auto-x and street driving seem great.

Thanks for the input on the toe out i'll try it on one of our test and tune days and see if it improves the feel for me

 

First thing - absolutely switch the springs around. Evos need more rate in the rear for a number of reasons. In fact I'd go to an 11 or 12 kg rear spring to go with your 9kg front.

As far as alignment settings a good starting point would be -3.0 camber F and -1.5 R with 1/8 to a 1/4" toe up front and 1/16" toe out in the rear.

Right now your running too much camber in the rear for your setup. The rear end has too much grip so I would assume your fighting understeer issues.

There are a TON of other variable to take into account but, that'll get you started. Next purchase for you should be a tire pyrometer.

 

At the point i am right now the car feels decent i want a tad more grip in the front (doesnt everyone)my hope after hearing what you guys are saying is the toe will aid in this...
Im running all that camber in the rear because my style consists of a lot of power over to rotate the car it works great for me i will research and see what i can about the higher rear rates im looking for anything and everything to keep taking the next step thanks...

 

I run pretty stiff springs now 700lbs+ in the rear... anyway,

-3.3 camber front, 0 toe

-1.2 rear camber, 1/8- 1/4 toe out for some rotation. 285/30/18 710's.

 

i honestly didnt understand anything you said your avatar is too distracting,,
Thanks

 

Haha. Anyway, I would talk to a variety of fast guys to determine what works for you in terms of alignment. Just like buying a suit, you need to get one tailored to fit you best.

Your driving style will certainly influence what your setup ends up as. After I drive our ES Miata, I just want the Evo to have huge front grip, and after the Evo, I want the Miata to grow some ***** in the engine room

 

[QUOTE=Matt2.8NJ;6686794]Haha. Anyway, I would talk to a variety of fast guys to determine what works for you in terms of alignment. Just like buying a suit, you need to get one tailored to fit you best.

Your driving style will certainly influence what your setup ends up as.QUOTE]

Good point. I do believe that your driving style determines your alignment. Even to the extent of tire choice and suspension settings. How comfortable you are in the car has a lot to do with how quickly you can get around the track.

 

More grip in the front will happen when you put the softer springs up there where they belong. Stock - the EVO comes with stiffer rear springs, that's the natural balance for the chassis. Stiffer springs in the front is a stupid JDM thing.

Seriously - swap the springs.

I wouldn't use toe out in the rear. It's OK for low speed autocross, but makes the car wild and hard to control at speed. There are better ways to make the rear-end come around, like left-foot braking.

 

-2.3f, -1.3r, 0 toe all around, on KW Clubsports 8k/9k, tuned by Robi, on 245/40/17 Dunlop Direzza street tires, set to 36psi all around.

I would run more in the front, but have no camber plates...I maxed it out.

This setup netted me 8th overall out of 103 at a local autox club.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l49rTtjLgw0

 

Does anyone have some hard proof of this reversing the spring rate thing i noticed a few companies do it for the evo with no real explaination of why or which is better for certain applications

No offense but theres so much bsing on forums its nice to see someone whos tried both or has some testing done ive personally had good results the way they are now im more or less curious as to why its done

 

The 10/9 setup is probably stable for high speed track stuff. In order to get the most out of the car, especially for autox, you will absolutely need to run stiffer rear springs, even with a stiffer rear bar to boot.

I've run quite a few combo's over the past 4 years (autox only) and the car is generally pushy until you have a decent differential between front and rear rates, with the rear being higher. This applies regardless of tire type, it's a chassis thing.

The front suspension is macpherson strut and typically the motion ratio is very close to 1. This means the wheel rate is very close to the spring rate. On the rear it is less since the damper mounts 1/3 of the way in on the LCA. This position causes the wheel rate to be lower than the spring rate due to the extra leverage from the suspension layout. So in order to get the car closer to neutral/oversteer you need to shift the roll couple distribution towards the rear, this is accomplished by installing stiffer rear springs.

Hope that makes a little sense.

John

 

^thank-you i had to read that a few times but yeah it does im having trouble finding too much evidence of the why other then what you explained or of any advantage other then the decent ride of keeping them at this rate maybe i should call mueller and see what they have to say