hi all

I ran last season with the Forge duct kit, but my car doubles as my DD, and the ducting seems to have a super low durability. Every oil change, my shop is busy duct taping the ducting back together.

Due to this fragility, I'm considering ditching the Forge kit, and going with the seemingly indestructible cooling guides, instead

Anybody have experience with this, and an opinion on this decision pros/cons?

Also, is it possible that my install shop just chose some really poor routing of the ducting, resulting in too much exposure / frequent damage?

appreciate any advice

cooling guides: http://www.maperformance.com/mitsubi...uides-evo.html
forge duct kit: http://www.maperformance.com/forge-b...t-kit-evo.html

 

I haven't done any scientific data collection between the brake ducts and Air Guides but in general the ducting is more effective unless you bump up the size of the Air Guides.

The Evo X with Aero kit that I have came with the Air guides but the channels in the undertray leading to them had some areas blocking optimal flow so I clipped any plastic pieces in the way. I also ended up attaching scoops made of Aluminum with an enlarged surface area after the driver side got sheared off at the break away point during the winter. We'll see how much more effective they are on the road course, I may even bring slightly larger cutouts with me to the track in case it's still not enough airflow. I was at the limits of the brakes when trying to pace a Z06 on race tires through traffic last time where I maxxed out braking to make up for the losses in the straights and turns. The GT3076 turbo will even out the straightline speed and the wider tires will help in the turns although eventually I'll look at race rubber and coilovers as the next step.

 

tough to say
ill take those forge ducts off you
you are showing the oem Evo MR ducts
they are on my car but not sure how effective they really are
any cooling is better than none
if you really want to get crazy you can go with a nascar type system with fans and major ducting

 

You will need custom backing plates made. Mine clear perfectly with twin 2" hoses. Find a good fabricator, make your own. None of the kits I have seen for sale are worthwhile. Sorry no pictures, you figure it out....

 

you mean the hoses get ripped?

thas pretty common, just get double layered hose instead & make sure they route & zip-tie them in such a way that they dont rub & wear holes in it...

n

 

right, the hoses get ripped. I suspect it's partly, or largely the routing... but I have no shop space, and pretty much have to trust my local shop for this work.

Any leads on where i can find replacement hosing that's more durable / double layer?

cheers

 

Yeps. It's usually inside the wheel-well where they get ripped. I need to re-route my driver side myself because of some rubbing there. I haven't heard about the double-layer stuff but I recently bought some new ducting here: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p..._Temp_Ducting2

I have the Forge kit as well. That, the Hot Lap or the AMS kit are worlds better than whatever the factory air guides are supposed to do.

 

It really boils down to how lazy you are and/or level of cooling you want. By design the Forge/AMS/HL kits are very generic and most 90% of routing configurations have resulted in rips and tears. However they provide a very good starting point to design your own system like everyone else stated. It could be cheap and simple or expensive and complex. Going the MR duct route I wouldn't recomm because it'll suck up more then air...like rocks, rodents, mud, and everything else. There's a couple of threads on here already about people doing NACA ducts and such so lots of ideas out there.

 

Let me know if you decided on the Forge brake ducts. I have had good luck with them, as did my customers.

Shoot me a pm if you need anymore information!

 

Be careful when trying to cool the rotors..if you cool the rotors to fast or unevenly they will break...make sure which ever route you go that the "cooling air" is aimed at the rotor hub, not the rotors edge. Pete

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...nder-tray.html

There you go! Great solution. And ducts > guides.

 

My car is a daily driver too, and I swap out my pads and rotors for every track event. With that said I also remove my ducts as well. I have the AMS kit and just snip the zip ties off.

I don't run with an undertray so in reality removal is just snipping and pulling. Installations is an additional 10 minute affair.

There is no benefit to run ducts on the street. So I think the 10 minutes to install & remove plus the cost of zipties (pennies) is worth it to save the ducting.

My 2¢

 

If you haven't already removed the splash shields that will help with cooling them as well. You just have to protect your ABS line and sensor in the process. Some simply trim off the outer part of th shield leaving the ABS clip and partial shield to protect it. With those shields in place those mitsu guides won't do jack.

I don't think the full ducting approach will do much unless the scoops are on the front of the car. The area under the car is a low pressure zone where as the front is a high pressure zone.

What track pads are you using?

 

DS2500 front and rear

 

That might be part of your brake problem right there. Those are not track pads.