Belt choice depends on series rules and price. SFI rated belts are only rated for 3 years. FIA belts go up to 5 years but usually cost twice as much. I bought the Racetech Pro 5 belt from CDOC price $290. I think the best value/quality are Crow belts from Speedway Motors.

 

okay here is the deal. If you want to use harnesses with stock seats without cutting a hole in them! You get a 6 point harness and mount the sub belt to the same place as the lap belts. You then lay the sub belt on the seat and sit on it, then connect. Legal in SCCA time trials!

 

that sounds like it would feel weird on your legs. does it?

 

I have never tried. I seen a few run them this way and have never heard them *****. It's much safer then routing them over the front of the seat tho and legal.

 

schroth
competition:
http://www.schrothracing.com/store/Competition
Weekend Warior:
http://www.schrothracing.com/store/Tuning

they selling the 4 point anti sub, street legal seat belts too.

Also they have a very important one for weekend warriors the auto control one ,which is let you move forward just like a regular OEM seat belts .
base:
http://www.schrothracing.com/store/T...autocontrol-II
one step better
http://www.schrothracing.com/store/T...utocontrol-III

I hope, this will give you a wider shopping range .

 

I would be very careful with the above suggestion. I did some looking into it, and to me it appears that there are 2 types of 6pt belts. One where the strap still needs to go straight down through the seat and one that mounts to the lap belt locations and where you sit on the lower belt. You can't interchange between the mountings just because it is a 6pt. The two types of belts have a different design. You have to follow the install instructions that came with your belts.

Also, the ones where you sit on, seem to be designed for a more laying down position as in formula cars... I have not found any evidence that suggests it would be effective in an upright seat. Just because someone mounts it like that in their car it does not mean it is right. I'm looking for evidence in terms of install instructions from the belt manufacturer that actually did testing to see if their belts + mount locations are effective.

 

I am just following what the SCCA rulebook says. I would trust that over your research! Also I'm a climber and have used webbing for a harness and it's the same princable. Now I have g-force 6 point and it would work fine for sitting on. Either way I just follow the rules.

 

Fair enough - I just want readers of this thread to do their own research. Rules are not always correct especially when they are generic. And like I said, not all 6pt belts are the same and their installation is usually very specific and not normally interchangeable. Check instructions that came with the belts and don't modify them. I trust the install instructions from manufacturer over some SCCA generic rules.

Oh, I'm a climber and know how the harness works as well but do not see how this is supposed to help here.

For instance, look at the angle differences between the 5pt and 6pt crotch belt mounting. Second, why would Schroth (just as an example) make a difference in the install instructions between Profi 6-point and Profi F-models. They are both 6pt belts. They could have just said "install this or that way" whatever works for you, but they don't.


Look at how different the crotch straps are on these belts:
http://www.schrothracing.com/imgView...rofi.3.B40.jpg
http://www.schrothracing.com/imgView...mula.3.B40.jpg

Both are 6-pt belts. One is designed to mount between the legs, the other you are supposed to sit on. Still not convinced their mounting is not interchangeable? Ah well, I tried - be safe.

 

i have the first one and it is very comfortable.

i had G-force before, it is good for 2 years vs the 5 years ,and very heavy there for not comfortable. But they do a job if accident happens and cheap.

 

I've had the Schroth Rallye 4's on both front seats for at least 6 months... and at this point if I was going to do track stuff with more frequency I'd want to swap at least the driver's seat out.

Sure the belts hold you to the seat as much as they can, but the stock bolsters are not nearly deep enough to actually keep you in the seat when pulling heavy g loads on the track (and the stock bolsters are some of the best I've ever felt in any car).

 

well I'm poeple mount belts all kind of ways. None of us are experts. Contact you belt mfg if your in doubt! So there are ways around cutting a hole in your seat.

My g-force are FIA rated! and they seem better then my sparco's

 

Thank you. I saw quite a bit of bad info, and wanted to get some of the really knowledgeable folks to chime in and help keep us safe.

My Sparco seats arrived and I've got'em ready to install this weekend. From everything I've read (the correct instructions), it looks like the only solution to properly mount my dual (6-point) sub belts is to drill the floor and use a reinforcement plate. If anyone has a solution that keeps the angle to within 20 degrees and avoids drilling, speak now please. I'd like to keep my car such where if I had to put the stock seats back in, pull the harness, pull the cage, etc., I could. I'm not planning on visiting the dealer, but things happen.

 

This is exactly how the 6 point is my car sets up. As my Sparco's are fixed seats that sit on their own base, it takes less than 10 minutes to switch out my race seats back to stock.

The sub belt sits folded quietly under the stock seats when not in use

 

I like the idea, but doubtful. It's not difficult to swap seats (remove center console, 4x bolts), but removing the receiving end of the factory 3 point belts and re-mounting it on both driver and passenger seats (lock washer and nut required on the Sparco end) takes more than 10 minutes all by itself. Especially when these should be secured with medium strength Loctite 243 and tightened to a precise 22Ft/Lbs every time. I like the option to swap back and forth, but I doubt it's something I'll do with any regularity.
I still need to figure out how to get the driver’s side factory belt receiving end off the OEM Recaro. The passenger side is easy, but the driver’s side has a (seat belt) wire that runs down through and under the seat and ends with a white plastic clip (too big to pull through). I still haven't figured out how to get this wire to stay with the receiving end without just cutting it.
This is not a 10 minute operation. More like an hour minimum.