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Evo 8 Time Attack Build

Old May 31, 2009 | 08:30 AM
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Evo 8 Time Attack Build

Hey guys, I started this thread elsewhere and it was closed, so here it is again..

Hey guys, I've been on here for awhile and have asked questions and bought parts but never really been on the forums a whole lot. Thought its about time to change that.. So here's my "Evo Build" so to speak...

The Goal:
To build a somewhat competitive (or just really fun) Time Attack or HillClimb Evo on a rather limited budget.. Simple Enough..

The Car:
2005 Weightless White Evolution 8 (With blown stocker 16G )

The Mods:
Oh where to begin??

Engine:
I know some of this is "Ricy" but it came on the car...,
AEM Intake w/ K&N Typhoon Filter and Heatsheild
Megan Stainless Steel Manifold
Invidia 02 Housing
Custom 3" Tubo-Back with Apexi N1 Muffler
TurboXS UTEC
TurboXS RFL BOV
TurboXS Single Stage Boost Controller
Precision Injectors
Perrin Shifter Bushings
Exedy Twin Disc HD Clutch
HKS 264 Cams

Suspension:
Tanabe 7-Series Coilovers w/ Pro 210 Springs
Tanabe Camber Plates
Tanabe Underbracing
Tanabe TEAS system
Tanabe Front and Rear Swaybars
Energy Suspensions Master Bushing Kit
Perrin Positive Steering Kit
Cusco Strut Tower Bars
Custom 6PT RollCage

Brakes:
StopTech Front BBK
Brembo GT Rear BBK
GFGoodridge SS Lines
Agent Orange Pads

Exterior:
APR GT Front Bumper w/ Carbon Canards
APR GT Mirrors
APR Rear Carbon Diffuser
Seibon Carbon Hood OEM Style
Custom Blacked-Out Tailights
Blue Laminex Headlights

Interior:
Sparco Rev Seats
Sparco 325 Steering Wheel
NRG Quick Release Hub System
G-Force 5pt Camlock Harnesses
Completely Stripped and Caged, all painted white

Wheels/Tires:
Enkei NT03+M's 17x8 +35ET
SumiTomo HTR Z III's 255/40/17's

Theres a few of the mods and mods to come.. Any Suggestions, Comments, or Sponsorship Money would be greatly appreciated

To Come:

A new turbo and revised exhaust setup
New Big FMIC and Piping
Racing Slicks (255's most likely)
ESS System
Aluminum Radiator and Silicone Hoses
Engine Monitoring Gauges
DataLogger
Bigger Cams

Last edited by MitsoKid; May 31, 2009 at 09:25 PM.
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Old May 31, 2009 | 08:48 AM
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camshafts? get a recirculated dv if your turbo xs bov is not recirculated
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Old May 31, 2009 | 08:59 AM
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The BBK is waay overkill with 255 Sumitomos. If you were running 255+ Rcomp then maybe. A lot of people will immediately dismiss a BBK, I will not. But, that being said, you need way more rubber to make use of those and to even be competitive. Tires are the single greatest overall performance part, go cheap on the APR stuff, not the tires. Good luck!
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Old May 31, 2009 | 09:08 AM
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From: vegas baby....
what sort of series are u planning to enter? for redline you will not be competitive in any class with those mods.

u need to list what is already on the car & what your planning on modding cause some of those mods are just a waste of $$...

good luck

n
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Old May 31, 2009 | 10:04 AM
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I know some of these things won't do a thing for me, like i said, most of them came on the car.

I hate that stupid TurboXS BOV, its a pain in the *** and annoying, it leaks boost like crazy.

Right now I am focusing on suspension work, and the Sumitomo's are on there just to drive it on the street, no other reasons, I will switch to R-Compunds when I get the chance to get on a track
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Old May 31, 2009 | 09:21 PM
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So question, I'm fairly new to racing, especially with an Evo and an AWD car.

What size turbo would you guys recommend? I can get a good deal right now on a 20G which would work well for me and my pocket book but I can also get a good deal on a complete Buschur Racing GT35R kit. I have Carrillo Rods but an otherwise stock block (for now)..

what should I do?
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Old May 31, 2009 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MitsoKid
So question, I'm fairly new to racing, especially with an Evo and an AWD car.

What size turbo would you guys recommend? I can get a good deal right now on a 20G which would work well for me and my pocket book but I can also get a good deal on a complete Buschur Racing GT35R kit. I have Carrillo Rods but an otherwise stock block (for now)..

what should I do?
The 20g is similar to what Evo 9s have stock if I am not mistaken (I might be!) and a 35R is going to have some significant lag, especially for a circuit car even if you have a 2.3L stroker. The 20g is good for quite a bit of power, but that requires some serious massaging. The 35R is much bigger power, like 600whp+ on race gas. Based on what I have read, not my experience as I do not have a turbo kit, I would recommend a HTA30R or an HTA35R. The 30 should seat you comfortably around 450-500whp on race gas. Chris@AMS thought I could hit 450whp with a HTA30R on 93oct. There are some crazy deals on used HTA35Rs on this board that I would be all over if 2009 was 2010

Last edited by Protostar1; May 31, 2009 at 11:14 PM.
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 04:54 AM
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ha yea, i thought a 30R or an HTA turbo would do better also but I was offered a good deal on the 35R..

I think I might just stick with a 9 turbo and do some more mods to it..

Ugh I hate when things break :\
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by MitsoKid
ha yea, i thought a 30R or an HTA turbo would do better also but I was offered a good deal on the 35R..

I think I might just stick with a 9 turbo and do some more mods to it..

Ugh I hate when things break :\
Check out the CBRD BBK Turbo.
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 06:56 AM
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before you start building or buying anything, i would start by going to a bunch of track days. you should get a feel for the car. and once you know how the car runs on the track, you'll know exactly what will work for you. second, read the rule books for whatever class you want to run. know what mods are allowed/disallowed. and build the car on paper with what parts you know you need (based off driving the car) and what parts your allowed to have (based off the rule book). certainly some classes no matter what you do to the evo it wont be competitive, but often times (especially in autocross), its less about how the car is prepped, then it is about how the driver can drive it. if the car is legal for the class, and you are very comfortable driving it, that alone can make you competitive.

and just for arguments sake, tracking a 35r evo is very do-able, but unless your very good at driving it, you'll get killed on corner exit every time. in low speed turns everything will eat you alive. and you'll need huge brakes/sticky tires to slow you down at the end of long straights. i have my boost turned way down because i would be going to fast for the brakes at the end of the straights. in our time attack car we are going to a 2.3L with a red or a HTA30r varient.
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by KevinD
before you start building or buying anything, i would start by going to a bunch of track days. you should get a feel for the car. and once you know how the car runs on the track, you'll know exactly what will work for you. second, read the rule books for whatever class you want to run. know what mods are allowed/disallowed. and build the car on paper with what parts you know you need (based off driving the car) and what parts your allowed to have (based off the rule book). certainly some classes no matter what you do to the evo it wont be competitive, but often times (especially in autocross), its less about how the car is prepped, then it is about how the driver can drive it. if the car is legal for the class, and you are very comfortable driving it, that alone can make you competitive.

and just for arguments sake, tracking a 35r evo is very do-able, but unless your very good at driving it, you'll get killed on corner exit every time. in low speed turns everything will eat you alive. and you'll need huge brakes/sticky tires to slow you down at the end of long straights. i have my boost turned way down because i would be going to fast for the brakes at the end of the straights. in our time attack car we are going to a 2.3L with a red or a HTA30r varient.
100% agree
Maybe try more types of rubber as each brand is different, one can suit your style better than other
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by KevinD
before you start building or buying anything, i would start by going to a bunch of track days. you should get a feel for the car. and once you know how the car runs on the track, you'll know exactly what will work for you. second, read the rule books for whatever class you want to run. know what mods are allowed/disallowed. and build the car on paper with what parts you know you need (based off driving the car) and what parts your allowed to have (based off the rule book). certainly some classes no matter what you do to the evo it wont be competitive, but often times (especially in autocross), its less about how the car is prepped, then it is about how the driver can drive it. if the car is legal for the class, and you are very comfortable driving it, that alone can make you competitive.
Right on. What series are you going to run so we know what you'd need to build for?

If just for fun - you'll definitely need some wider rims and wider tires just for starters as it's been said. If you stick with a stock IX turbo, you'll max it out around 380whp with race gas. You might be able to massage near 400whp out of it but that's the upper limit from what I've found - fyi. That's with a stockish bottomend of course.
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 08:00 AM
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pic of the car pls...
i would personally op for the 35R
with a 2.3 setup and 35R
there wont be much lag
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 08:53 AM
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I will get pics as soon as I can.

I think Im going with a FPWhite Evo 9 turbo for cost sake, and Im going to get it ported. I ordered an AMS LICP today and an ETS 3" Wide-Tank I/C..

I've been driving the car for 2 years and feel that I have a good feel for it, Im sure things really change on the track though..

I've run Falken's, BFgoodridge, Goodyear, Toyo, and now Sumitomo.. I really want to buy some 255 G-Force R1's or some type of R-Compund..

Wish I could afford larger 18x9 wheels to I could run wider tires but I'm not making much money right now
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 08:59 AM
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What is your driving experience???

I suggest getting in as much seat time on low power and street tires as you can. Going straight to a slick or even an R-comp will mask driver error. Tracking street tires will help you develop your skills and you will feel and hear what is really going on. And the overall cost is cheaper.

My suggestions for the car are..... Ditch the 264 cams, I have 272's and they work great, As boomn29 said wider wheels is a plus. Same wheel you have now in 17 x 9.5 +38 would be good. I prefer dunlop direzza Z1 star specs, cheap and sticky street tire! Whiteline Roll center adj kit. Not sure which bushings come in the energy kit..... I would start with that tho.
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