izzyevo

iTrader: (1)

ok, thanks. hopefully downshifting will help the brakes.

absolute

down shifting will help a tiny bit, but i cant see it helping significantly unless u downshift really early in which case ur bleed away speed n will hurt ur time on the track

i think the key for the MR is just to get a new disc for track one of those slotted ventilated brakes. or maybe j-hooked....drilled/crossdrilled = bad on the track because the create high tension points where the holes are drilled easily creating a ''connect the dots'' effect


either way i think the key is to give ur car enough time to cool down between sessions, my friend does 10 laps(2 warm up 6 fast, 2 cooldown) on his s2000 before cooler but im at a more conservative 5 laps (2 warmup 2 fast, 1 cooldown). these are on a low speed circuit where the straights are short.

higher speed tracks w/ longer straights(like the one OP went on 200km+) i think its best to stick to around 5 laps if ur on ur stock rotors and pads, to reduce the chance of cracking them

RaNGVR-4

iTrader: (4)

That can happen and has to many stock and aftermarket rotors on many different types of cars. You are overheating your brakes, learn a correct braking technique and you shouldnt have this happen again.

sblvro

iTrader: (2)

looks like your rotors hasn't been heat cycled.

MrBonus

iTrader: (4)

Your brakes were designed to stop you car; your transmission was not. Not only is it extremely poor technique, using your transmission to brake your car could leave you with a repair bill far more expensive than a wear item like a rotor.

izzyevo

iTrader: (1)

sorry expert that you misunderstood my post but what I meant is using my tranny by downsifting in chronological order to help it slow down assisting the brakes coming in corners thus relieving some of the brakes systems stress and I believe this is a technique auto makers recommend even in normal driving. Also being the MR has quick shifting capabilities that it even makes more sense to do so.

Anyway, has any MR owners have any braking issue when tracking?

MrBonus

iTrader: (4)

No, I didn't misunderstand your post in the least. I've never once heard an automaker suggest the transmission was intended to slow the car, especially with today's modern brakes.

izzyevo

iTrader: (1)

Yah, you are probably correct regarding the automakers. I was just making sure that you can read correctly what I wrote. Anyway, I'm tracking in a couple weeks and I will downshift before the corner to prep for the upcoming turn and match my speed to be on the right gear thus will help slow the car, of course using my brakes at the same time. I will let you know if my brakes break or warp.

MrBonus

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't worry too much about your rotors. Just go out there and have fun.

Hiboost

iTrader: (9)

I learned this once the hard way in my Eclipse GSX on a road course. My car was running flawlessly and I was flying and feeling good, then they ended the session a bit quicker than expected so I downshifted earlier than normal to "save the brakes". Worst. Move. Ever.

Guess what? I somehow didn't realize what speed I was going and even though it was below the 8500 limiter me engine had with valve springs and retainers, I bent one valve ever so slightly which forced a rebuild.

Even if you have to get specialized track pads, install brake ducts, and use high temp brake fluid, using your brakes to slow down your car is MUCH safer than trying to save them with engine braking. Granted the proper amount of downshifting can assist with weight transfer into a corner but doing it too early can have disasterous effects.

x[corwyn]

Im honestly looking at DBA 4000 1 piece rotors for my DD/occasional track day on my EVO X. I had those on my VIII and they worked extremely well. I didnt like the stock rotors on the VIII either, and prior to a track day I would recommend swapping the rotors, putting on better pads, and at least swapping out for better brake fluid than what comes from the manufacturer. If you can swing it stainless steel lines would be perfect.

I realize there may be some irritation from seeing those stock rotors breaking like that at the track, IMHO thats using something that probably should have been taken off prior to a track day. YMMV though.

Absent

Irritation? If my rotor was warped, glazed or slightly crack I wouldn't have bothered making a thread about it. This is something that can possibly kill you.

Don't you think it's weird that you have to spend a few thousand bucks on top of what you paid for the car just so you don't die when you go out on track? We're not talking about a 93 Sunfire here. Evo were built with this in mind, weren't they?

honki24

iTrader: (23)

You've been on here quite a while and your posts are usually solid... but this one isn't. I brake as late as my pads well let me, every time - and I've split rotors in half. Metal is metal and even a chunk with *fewer* imperfections will develop weak points after enough cycling or with the right mechanical and thermal shock. I can understand broken rotors on track cars with a good amount of heat cycles, but for a rotor to circumferentially fracture after few cycles on MORE THAN ONE CAR implies one of a few things:

1. The rotors in question are from the same pour and have similar flaws (least likely)
2. There is a process error that intermittently produces flaws in the pour (more likely)
3. The FMEA on this design was inadequate and track stresses are too much for the OE piece (I find most likely)

Because of what I see here, I would replace the rotors at very least (of course on top of fluid and proper pads) if I were ever to track a X, because I know very well what it's like to lose brakes while tracking my 8... and this looks far more catastrophic.

slo4g63

iTrader: (3)

+1 on post #43

definitely agree, especially on #3

Boltz.

iTrader: (42)

That is pretty scary but at least you found out before something bad happened. Its probably the X with the Canadian brake package... J/P