MajorGunHo

iTrader: (1)

Hey, I recently changed focus on my evo from being a full blown drag car, to a streetable, yet still very race-able track car.

Anyway, due to this change, I know very little about prepping, racing, do's and don't's, etc of track days. I know drag races, but not really auto-x's.

So my questions to you are...
-What should I be looking at getting done before next season starts?
-Where should I find scheduling and registration info?
-How many should I shoot to make?
-What should I expect?
-How much should I expect to spend per day?
-Are there any beginner days over regular days?
-Any other addt'l info that would be useful to me.

Thanks ahead of the time. I'm hoping to really get some track time next year, and am hoping to make the best of it!

skyblas

spec of your car pls...

MajorGunHo

iTrader: (1)

It's still in the works, so some of this might change, and it isn't a complete list, but I'll do my best.

Stripped shell, full cage, cosworth 272 cams & valvetrain, currently have a gt35r sitting on the motor with full tubular header, but thinking about changing out, to what I don't know, but going to go down in size. AMS race IC / UIPC / LICP. greddy profec B.

AEM ems. stock suspension, but have a few things i'm eyeballing, doing more research as I don't know a lot about suspension.

enkei rpf1's with hoosier road race slicks.

If you want details on anything in particular, ask please, thanks

MrBonus

iTrader: (4)

The most important thing to consider is your pads and fluid. Personally, I run ATE Super Blue/Gold because it's cheap and easy to flush after each event. There are a number of track-worthy pads (And a good thread that lists them in the brake/suspension forum). I personally run PFC 01/97s, others like Raysbestos ST43s, and there are a ton of other options too.

I would stick with a sticky street tire and your OEM suspension until you're at a level where you are really using both to their potential. Sticky tires allow you to get into trouble a lot faster and adjustable suspensions will simply give you a level of adjustment that you probably shouldn't nor need to be playing with.

Otherwise, there is no number of HPDE events you have to attend. There are a lot of good groups out there from the PCA, Audi Club, NASA, Track Daze, etc. Find a few that you like to run with and go from there. You'll be signed up as a "novice" or "green" driver, placed in a run group with drivers of a similar experience, and given an instructor. Expect to spend $300 - 600 per weekend not including brake pads/rotors and fluids.

apex electric

Your Evo is a lot of car to bring to a driver school at a race track for the first time.. Try some go karts first, then a professional school like Skip Barber that will give you instruction and track time. I know it cost money but starting with a good foundation of experience will make your Evo track days safer and better. Buy the book "Going Faster mastering the art of race driving" It is the bible for driving students since it was wrote by Skip Barber instructors in 1997

skyblas

if u are using stock brake
i think u better flush your brake before and after the event with RBF600
the stock brembo tend to overheat after afew hot laps
what bhp are u running at?
if its over 400hp
i am shock u havent even change your brake pad and disc
check out the girodisc magic pad, its enough for you
and probably a pair of slotted rotor at the front wheel
but as MrBonus mention
there are tons of other options...just search for it
at the very least, at least get a stage one brake kit to pair with your performance modification
the last thing u want to save a few bucks at a track day event is the brake...

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

I'd switch out the GT35r for something smaller and detune it for safety, reliability, longevity and most of all lower cost on pump gas.

As mentioned, just get some sticky street tires. Very cost effective and aid in learning. Switch out that fluid - I'd recommend AMSOIL DOT4 600 myself over ATE or Motul - but any would do at your level. A good aggressive street pad will do. Do not jump to track pads right away, they're a bit hard to get used to.

Get a helmet, find a group to run with local and prepare to be overloaded with info!

MrBonus

iTrader: (4)

RBF600 is also a fantastic fluid however, Magic Pads are a street compound and definitely not suited for the track.

Peter Tiebout

iTrader: (3)

A great Brake pad choice is the RacingBrake ET800B..you can use them for everything you want to do and not have to change them for street driving. There are lots of choices on the brake fluid and it is hard to go wrong unless you go over the temp rating. That will be a function of how you brake and the tracks you will run on, that you will need to keep an eye on to get the best performance from whatever you choose to use. Pete

MajorGunHo

iTrader: (1)

Good to know that stock suspension will work for now, especially until I know more about it and what I'm looking for. Thanks for the heads up with the pads and fluids, learning already


Well I'm not new to driving, just new to actually driving at tracks. And I've played in go-karts with friends many times.. and I would love a school, but problems run into finding something close enough, but I'll definitely look into them, and that book, thanks.

Yes... the car was originally going to be setup for a full drag car, and hence the gt35r. Since the change in outlook for my car, I'm looking at going down, probably an FP red, but I need to do some more research. But I'm glad I'm on the right track.. and as you said with the info, preparing

EvolvedMR

iTrader: (14)

Aside from the typical stuff That everyone here has or will touch on(i.e. brakes, cooling) get rid of your Greddy profec EBC and go ecu tuned boost!!!!!

Although the EBC may be good for full throttle straightline pulls, it is terrible for the precise part throttle control required by road racing.

I had one when I first started and had terrible surging during part throttle corners. I could not believe how much smoother I was by just removing it. Also if you have a bov get rid of it, run stock IX unless your PSI is over 23PSI or you are experiencing leakage.

Smooth application of power is of utmost importance when you are using 99% of you tires turning. Having a turbo car already puts you at a disadvantage (in smoothness that is)

GTWORX.com

iTrader: (35)

As other's have said, that's a lot of power for a newcomer to the track.

I would recommend against using your Hoosiers for the first SEASON. 245 sticky street tires that can take a little heat will teach you more and you'll be faster in the long run. Stock suspension for the first even is fine.

Pads and fluid are a must do. A spare set of rotors just in case would be a good idea to have on hand too. Lots of options out there for pads and fluid, we like Motul for fluid and PFC, Hawk, and Pagid for pads. A separate track pad from your street pad is a good idea. Just running an aggressive street pad is okay if your new to the track but with all that power it might not work out so well.

Do NOT race yourself. Don't worry about laptimes, don't even think about laptimes. Ride with an instructor, drive with an instructor. Have fun.

Myles always said to drive with your wallet taped to the dashboard....just so you know not to do anything stupid.

- Andrew

spdracerut

iTrader: (2)

My first suggestion, don't even think about tracking your Evo! That's a lot of car for even experienced drivers.

Your best investment is a proper 2/3-day driving instruction school. So something like Skip Barber, etc.

As for your first track day or auto-x, go borrow a 'regular' car. If you know anyone with a S2000 or Miata, borrow that and go to an auto-x. Heck, you can rent a 350Z from Hertz. Those cars will be MUCH more managable and actually allow you to learn how to drive. And you don't have to worry about things like brakes, cooling, suspension, cost of fuel, etc. etc.

Just show up, learn how things operation at a typical auto-x or track day, and have some fun.

MajorGunHo

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I'll look into a driving school that I could try to make, as it seems thats an awesome idea. And i wanna throw out, its not that I'm new to driving, at all, it's just that there are no tracks around here really, and I want to start making it to tracks, I've driven and ridden in auto-x tracks made of cones, but not on real tracks.

But once again, thanks for the replies, enjoying reading them, and even repetition is fine because it helps beat ideas into my brain.

Ludikraut

iTrader: (17)

My $.02:

- get an alignment
- smaller turbo, or just don't run more than 22psi on the 35r (yeah, it would suck, but you would really learn to try to keep your momentum going through corners)
- flush your brakes with good fluid
- get good pads; I would not get a street/track pad, get a dedicated track pad right from the start
- run street tires to learn on; cheapest option: stock rims with stock advans; get a used set if you don't have a set anymore
- stock suspension is good, although if you have the funds, you may want to consider some minor tweaks to make the car handle more neutral (not really required for learning, though)
- make sure you check everything on your car before going to the track, especially check for loose hose clamps and, if you haven't already, get a silicone coupler at least for your LICP
- be humble ... remember that while your car may be capable of beating most cars that you will see in an HPDE, you're probably not capable of besting most drivers, given equal equipment. It's easy to look like you're going fast in an Evo, as it will cover up and recover from alot of mistakes. One of the best things that you can do if you really want to learn the dynamics of your car is to do an HPDE in the rain.

If you look around the motor sports forum, there are several great threads that talk about what to do prior to and during your first HPDE.

l8r)