First off I did a search and couldn't find what I was looking for. From what I found most people have different suggestions for different suspension setups.

I have an 06 EVO IX RS which was bone stock with the exception of K&N panel filter, but I have since added a DC Sports downpipe. I have a few other power upgrades planned, but nothing too crazy. Reliability is the key here.

A little history...I've been AutoXing for 11 yrs. I've slowed down the past few years and haven't been nearly as active for a number of reasons. My real passion is the roadcourse. I've done 1 HPDE in the EVO bone stock, but I usually do one HPDE every year since I've been AutoXing in the various cars I've owned over the years (ITR, 03 WRX, 05 STi, etc).

I just picked up a used suspension that I will be installing soon. VIII MR Bilsteins with Swift Sport springs and Tein adjustable front tophats.

I plan on doing more track days (HPDE) and some AutoX this next year. I will try to focus on HPDE, but we'll see how my finances go. Local AutoX is a lot more friendly to the wallet if I don't focus on being overly competitive.

-What alignment specs do you recommend?

-I have 2 bottles of Motul RBF600 I got from a friend. Will that be enough for a full flush?

-What brake pads do you recommend? Are OEM rotors fine for now or should I upgrade? Keep in mind I have an RS (non ABS). I want a setup that will last longer and not fade as easy. I don't want a setup that bites too much being non-ABS. Maybe some of you that track your RS' can help out.

Thanks in advance. I will have some wheel/tire questions soon.

 

Well is the Evo still your DD or still driven on the streets? What tires?

As a general guideline, something like between -2 and -2.5 front would be plenty aggressive and around -1 rear. Take my advice and just zero out the toe all around for improved tire wear. Toe kills tires way before camber does.
If you're concerned about tire wear from too much front camber or it's more of your DD then you can scale the front camber back towards -1.5 to 2.

 

The EVO is not my DD. It spends most of its time in the garage with only 9k miles on it. It's more of a cruiser/weekend fun car. That could change someday, but I doubt that it would anytime soon. I'm still on my OEM Advans, but I might get another set of tires this next year. Most likely sticky street tires (Azenis, Star Specs, etc), but a set of real stickies aren't ruled out either.

I have two sets of wheels...my OEM Enkeis and 17x8 Kosei K1 TS. I've also considered something like 17x9 5Zigen FN01R-Cs too with a bigger size tire over the OEM 235/45.

 

I would suggest a bit more camber, 3 degrees front, 1.5 out back, but agree with zero toe front and rear. I don't suffer from excessive camber wear. Keep an eye on the edges of the tires, both inner and outter to tell you how much camber is needed.

If you are doing just HPDEs, I would suggest Racing Brake ET800s, they work well for me and can still be driven to and from the event. Also, OEM rotors work well for me and they have seen quite a bit of abuse.

Dan

 

3 is way to much, especially for street tires. -2 would be the absolute max i would put on and thats probably too much. It would be best to use a tire temp gauge and or white wax pen to mark the tires and look for roll over. Do some testing within your tires time range and see what you need to get the best grip.
Of course if you just want to look "rice-y" then -3+ it

 

lmao

 

well mark your tires and see what happens...

 

In my experience, you need less camber the sticker the tire is and the stiffer the sidewall.

Playing with tire temperatures across the face of the tire, we actually ran upwards of 3.7 degrees camber on the front tires to try and maximize contact patch. Honestly, it probably was too much, but you still need a lot on the front suspensions due to the MacPherson strut setup.

Dan

 

I disagree. On stock springs/dampers, but with front camber plates, I ran -3F/-1.5R on RE01R and Star Specs with very even wear. The change in cornering grip going from -1.5 on the front to -3 was significant!

 

Gota love it when n00bs give advice with no experience whatsoever.

 

So you have 3yr old rubber you don't intend on keeping and a basically stock power RS with a good start to suspension modding.

Refer to post #4 for good results, although I feel a little different about toe than the comments you see here but, toe all around is 'safe'. If you need a discount on the RB pads, I have a code that can help you save 10%. I would not use the RBF600 - it's overly hydroscopic for generally stock application UNLESS you are willing to flush monthly. Heck, it was free so maybe flush the system good, have a half bottle to spare and DOWNGRADE to Motul 5.1 which you will not boil. Stock rotors are fine for your first year or two.

Consider a bump steer kit and bushings while you're swapping out struts/springs. Some will tell you to consider end links but stock should suit you fine at first until you decide you want that rear a wee bit stiffer.

Buy some good tires once you burn up the stock Advans - plenty of opinions here for that.

Good for you for focusing on brakes and alignment first!