DaveK

iTrader: (21)

http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...rch_type=&aq=f

Rally America is beginning a series which will take place at NJMP in the fall, and if the format proves successful to the US market, it may expand across the country for 2011. Basically, rally cars with 45mm restrictors (instead of 34mm), running on a race track that's a mix of tarmac & gravel...6 at a time.

Dave

EVOlutionary

iTrader: (38)

Watched some vids. That looks EPIC! But yeah, going to need to bodyshop for sure!

DaveK

iTrader: (21)

Cool, looking forward to seeing what you come up with! I'm unsure what I'll be doing for a wing this year, but for the rallycross and off road stuff, I may look at picking up a WRC replica, that funky dual hoop thing:



Not as much downforce as the stuff DHP is making, but for rally stuff, the wings need to be homologated. For PPIHC I may look at taking my 2009 wing and fitting it to the 2008 supports for this year, but haven't made any decisions yet. Time Attack has strict limits on "vertical inches" so going back to the old mounting style with the more efficient wing element has some advantages because of the way the vertical inches are counted.

Dave

MATT@WORKS

Yeah, I was thinking of maybe something like that-- we'll see how the radiator does and if it needs any help. I'll be using a [relatively] small diesel engine running bio fuel likely making a maximum 250bhp, so in theory, I just have to get rid of maybe 90hp in cooling. Not too bad, thus my fairly small radiator. Any other help the cooling system needs will be adjusted via the bottom mounted ducts and possibly, as you mentioned, some pipe heat sinks. The flat underbody of the car is a perfect place to find some extra cooling air as long as you don't hurt the aerodynamics.

boomn29

iTrader: (47)

This is what I was thinking too. All that tubing to the rear has to add weight.

Btw, there are small radiator kits out there already. I know AMS sells one that shaves like 10 lbs --> HERE.
I had it on my car for a short while and it did the trick.

Robevo RS

iTrader: (16)

i was thinking a same thing, mostly because it is more safe place there for the unit itself. But the better weight distribution is always a good add on.

Only thing is needs a big and a lot air ducts plus extra fans. so when you add on all the fluid the extra hose and so , it might be a a pretty good weight add on.

So that is why i dropped the idea. Butif you guys do it , and it is not that bad with add on weights and not a horrible work , i will do it too.

So please please keep us updated.

Rob

Robevo RS

iTrader: (16)

i love that wing , only thing is you need to modify the trunk door too. get rid off all the hinges etc.
As soon as they will come out something for the X , i'm sure i will rock it

KevinD

iTrader: (56)

when i had my porsche 944 turbo there was a company that made intercooler pipes just like you drew evolutionary. i think it was lindsey racing out of oklahoma city. i think you could even add water cooling to the intercooler pipes if you wanted.

heres the link:
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Part...OLERTUBES.html

MATT@WORKS

So the general rule of thumb is that an efficient duct only has to be about a quarter of the overall surface area of the heat exchanger. This is assuming you are getting your air in a high pressure place and exhausting the hot air in a lower pressure place and don't have ducts that allow air to come in, hit the radiator, and bounce out. This was my reasoning for letting the air travel a long distance to gain some inertia.

The P51 Mustang has been a lesson for a long time in proper ducting. It had a 1/4-sized intake and a similarly small outlet and was phenomenally efficient. The plane's design was actually SO efficient, that theoretically, the jet effect from the cooling system could actually produce THRUST-- as in the OPPOSITE of drag. This is only theoretical because you need engine power to create heat for the radiator to create the thrust, but this is actually an over 100%-efficient cooling system, all due to the fact that they use the perfect size inlets and outlet and place them in efficient places.





About radiator size: Again, if a small front-mount radiator is working, you can probably take a bit more off the core size. I realize that there are plenty of small radiator kits for sale, but the intercooling effect is quite dramatic and makes up for a lot of radiator surface area. The overall weight of the system wouldn't be enormous either since its essentially just one more electric pre-pump and some aluminum piping. This could also be spread out to wherever you'd like. You Evo guys are always looking for ways to move a Braile battery to the trunk for slightly better weight distribution-- imagine moving the ENTIRE cooling system rearward and removing it from IN FRONT of the front axle. That is HUGE.

sscottttt

iTrader: (4)

Pre-Intercooler

Check this thing out, it's intended for extra cooling along an intercooler pipe but I don't see why it wouldn't work cooling liquid as well.

I've always been fond of the rear mounted radiator myself, great for weight distribution. I remember seeing it on Ken Gushi's drift mustang a few years ago, they basically turned the entire rear window into a lexan duct. Here's the only picture I could find of it.

Gushi Mustang Radiator

MATT@WORKS

Well extra rear weight is a big trend in race cars today-- sometimes close to 60% on a front-engine car. This involves moving the fuel, a bunch of ballast, and the transmission to the rear and moving the engine and driver as far back as possible. I should be looking at 52-55% of my weight on the rear axle for my project by doing everything the same with the exception of moving the transmission, excellent for coming off corners and better balance in braking.

DaveK

iTrader: (21)

Just curious, what size AN line do you think you'd need to run for something like this? I think hard piping would probably be too much of a hassle to figure out.

Dave

EVOlutionary

iTrader: (38)

-16 or larger. With a good electric water pump I bet -16 would be fine. Would use the lightweight black braided lines like I have on my current setup.

need_an_evo

iTrader: (7)

this may be a dumb question but could you still drive in the snow with a radiator like this if the snow is deep enough? or is it only for racing?

DaveK

iTrader: (21)

Cool, that's about what I was thinking...just wanted confirmation that I wasn't trying to skimp.

By my measurement, if you put the radiator in the plane where the rear seat back used to be, you'd need ~12-13' of line to get from the firewall to the radiator. I'm a big fan of the black lines as well, not only are they light, they cause much less bleeding when fabbing the lines!

Talked with a buddy of mine who does airplane stuff about ducting for the fans last night. His recommendation was to focus on the back side of the fans, produce an air tight shroud that's ~6-8" deep and mount the fans on the back of that. Then, make sure to narrow down the duct work after the fans to increase the speed of the exiting air so it won't cause too much turbulance exiting the rear of the car.

General rule is that if you're feeding from a high pressure area you can get away with an opening that's 1/4 the size of your core. So, if you choose to make a roof scoop to feed the radiator, follow that guideline. I don't want to ruin airflow over the top of the car, as that's what feeds my wing. If you feed from the side windows or doors without a scoop, its the fans that'll be drawing in the air, not the ducting so the 1/4 rule doesn't really apply.

I downloaded a NACA duct calculator tool last night and figured I could put a 25" long duct that's a max of 12" wide...but after chatting with my buddy, I don't think its necessary to use a NACA duct b/c the fans will be doing the work.

Dave