I would suggest calculating (or grabbing an engineer) head pressure for 40' of water in both -16 and -20. Regardless of what the actual math says an electric pump will take alot of the strain off the mechanical pump. The other add benefit is they are not rpm dependent for flow. I would run both myself. Option 2 is to change where the intercooler sits, how the radiator sits, etc. A subaru/nissan/WRC V-mount setup will probably help as well.

Aaron

 

Dave,

Roy and I have been kicking around this idea for my Pikes Peak car as well. He's done the setup on a few class 1400 and 1450 trucks, I will try to snag some detailed pics for you.

You have brought up nearly all of my questions, let's have a brain exchange one of these days!
I'll be mounting the radiator soon but won't have any results or info until testing in Dec/Jan.

 

I thought about that.. The problem is you're not going to move any weight with a V-mount setup unless you want to spend a fortune on extraordinarily efficient and lightweight radiator and intercooler.. The Evo engine bay just doesn't allow you to shove it all back like the Subaru. Then again, I'm no expert.. Just my .02

 

Does anyone know where I can get a replica of that wing?

 

Couple shops I've heard of that can get replicas, but they're more than $1000.

Dave

 

damn, didnt see OP date

 

Just to be clear, I did search specifically for that wing in a thread and bumped the thread for that purpose only.

 

I think that these guys have one if you want it.

http://www.spatechnique.com/

 

As a suggestion you might use insulated aluminum coolant hard pipes going thru the interior of the car and converting to AN line at the motor and the radiator. It should save on cost and weight and would be out of harms way too.

 

I'm currently using AN-16 piping and while the inside of the tubing looks plenty large, if you look at the inside of the 90 degree fittings, the diameter drops probably 25%. Jumping back and forth between regular piping and AN stuff will add some turbulence to the system. I think we'll end up with smoother flow just using silicone and 1.25" OD piping. My hope is to have the piping that's in the passenger compartment not have any couplers, but will be welded together instead.

I'm not planning on using insulated piping (1.25" with 1/16" wall), as having some extra heat transfer happen on the way too/from the radiator will mean the system is going to shed even more heat...of course the downside is that the inside of the car may be warmer, but I'll just have to deal with it.

Dave

 

hey dave recently came up on this thread, ive been researching myself how to do a rear radiator for my evo 8. How did your's turn out curious if its worth the time and how efficient it is? I've just started rallying and cant get away from it!

 

I still haven't done the conversion yet. Still thinking about it though.

Dave

 

oh alright ha

 

I guess one question is: why do you think you need to do this?

If your plan is for a stage rally car, I'd say steer clear and just run the car like every other Evo rally car on the planet. If you plan to run euro-style rallycross, then it makes a whole lot more sense to start down the rear radiator path.

Dave

 

If ya did it like that "sucker" evo, that would be killer