well im from chicago so we dont have the best elevation lol, im registered for scca rallyx in the midwest region this year. Ive been trying to figure out what the better route is. My motor is pulled right now so im trying to see what i can do and pro/cons of a rear radiator. This season im probably going to leave it in the front. Appriciate your input Dave, checked out your video's there sick, good job keep it up. Off the radiator subject what kind of suspension are you running?

 

For your situation, I'd leave it as is. The reason euro-rallycross guys stick them in the back is partly for protection from rocks. For US rally-x and even stage rally, the rear radiator opens up a whole can of worms and its not nearly as simple as 'stick it in the trunk,' and is part of the reason I haven't moved forward with it yet.

Thanks - I'm certainly having fun with the car! Running Ohlins for gravel races and ASTs for tarmac events.

Dave

 

Alright, thanks ha i couldnt decide on Ohlins orTien HG's

Tom

 

Those aren't even in the same price ballpark. Are you sure you're looking at the correct rally duty Ohlins? TTX/TPX? They're about $12k retail. For a more budget pick that'll still kick some serious ***, the RS&SP offering with hydraulic bumpstops is the way to go (and what I would've bought had it not been for a sponsorship deal on the Ohlins) for about half of that.

If you want to have a kick butt rally-x setup, try to find a set of Bilsteins from an MR model, and send them back to Bilstein to get revalved for rally-x use.

Keep in mind stage rally suspension isn't all that great for rally-x. Stage rally stuff needs to be good for speeds from probably 20-120 and deal with jumps and such. Rally-x is speeds up to 50ish and there really shouldn't be much in the way of jumps to deal with, so a softer suspension is going to give you better traction. Everything in racing is a tradeoff, so pick your poison.

Dave

 

yeah i know a buddy who was selling the HG's from his 8 still very expensive but way cheaper than brand new one's. I currently have Bilstein struts with pro springs. Will definitely look into sending them in.
Thanks again,
Tom

 

We are probably going to be doing this on our 2013 PPIHC car.

 

GSTMotorsports is using a rear mount setup on their time attack car. Anybody find anything on how well it's working for them? They have some large ducts to grab air in the rear door windows. It would be nice to do something a little less noticeable, but I imagine it probably helps considerably.

I'm wondering if you could get away with just some decent size openings either in the trunk lid or the rear door windows without any ducting. Then focusing only on the back side of the radiator for ducting, using fans and the low pressure area behind the car to pull air through the radiator and use the interior of the car as the supply.

 

GST had loads of teething issues with the car. Considering you have essentially one shot at Pikes Peak, that's been one of my main hesitations with doing it for a Pikes Peak car.

For reference, the Euro Rally-Cross Hyundai Velosters from a couple seasons ago were converted from rear radiator at the PPIR GRC event back to front radiators for PPIHC. Rhys seems to know what he's doing...

As with so many things in life and in racing, rember to K.I.S.S!

Dave

 

+1 I'm using -16 fittings which are about 3/4" or less in the bungs and fittings. I ported the bungs but the fittings I don't have any solution for.

 

So i talked with Rally cross guys who are did it. They did it because a lots of pushing and crashing going on there. But the evo and simular body type cars are way to long to make it really worth it. Adds to much weight also , circulate harder and does have a less cooling efficency vs a smaller cars like atoday fiesta .
So many of them returned to the front mount. But other still have and like it. Go figure

 

Dave those cars are not rally cars in the eu. They almost runnjng no restriction vs rally cars , in power body etc. They dont even have a lights, neither they are street legal. They only have to have a brake light. Completely different game.

Why they call it "rally" cross i have no clue. Maybe the very beginning they used rally cars , but i dont know really.

 

Here is the boot mounted setup from my mate road-race car.
Its a Daihatsu Charade 3-door with a 1.8 Honda motor, GTX76 turbo, E85, Motec everything etc.

Boot mounted setup has a PMW electric water pump setup which is run in conjunction with the fans as well. These are all controlled by the Motec to keep water temp at an optimum.
There is a water temp sensor at both the front and back of the car for accurate setup and control.

 

100% correct, but when a new series launches (or...failure to launch? ) the best way to attract a good number of entries is to make the rule set similar to what people are already racing...hence swap out the restrictor and go play. That's what Rally America attempted to do...GRC is a whole different story.


I believe the first rallycross in europe happened after a rally event got canceled for some reason and the competitors still wanted to race so they found a local track. Could be urban legend...but I'm pretty sure I read that somewhere.

Dave

 

That's what I'm using on my setup currently. I think because of the short run of hose and close proximity to the pump, it still allows for enough water flow. I think things get tricky when you add in ~25' of plumbing with even more small fittings that things become problematic.

Dave

 

this is my tuner place when he tuning some racing team Rally Cross cars





Some eye candy who want to build a rear radiator set up