Additional Bolt-in Roll Bar support/backing plates
How comfortable are you guys with welding the thin floor pan? I see welding on the door frame since that's stronger. I think that might be the only welding doable with these.
Last edited by delongedoug; Feb 13, 2011 at 12:33 PM.
putting plates on the outside of the car only helps if your cage is getting pulled (potentially from landing on the side, or a side impact). on a upsidedown crash like that mustang, backing plates wont do anything, and then your relying on the strength of the actual skin of the floor pan. exactly like xtnct said. but if your at all serious about your safety the base plates should be welded in. bolt in cages are not meant for serious motorsports.
I think that picture a proof of the wrong or badly installed cage. We don't even know which one. Just the proof the rollcage is not invincable if it is wrongly installed or a bad design.
Rob
Rob
But again, this is only a band-aid solution and it has its limitations. Best way to do this is to weld in some proper mounting supports if possible.
Actually all this is known. You just have to search for it. I recall reading threads about this incident where all this was discussed but gave up as the threads were getting too long and cluttered by "keyboard racers".
Last edited by xtnct; Feb 13, 2011 at 01:57 PM.
Yes, my bar came with plates for the outside as well. The inside of the bar has a plate welded on as well, But these are more like 3x2 or 3x4. The plates talked about in this thread go above and beyond the plates that come with the bars in order to spread out the load even further and reduce chances of a punch through.
Now make sense for me
my cage came a equally big enough base plate to welded on the bottom of the cage /inside/
Yes, my bar came with plates for the outside as well. The inside of the bar has a plate welded on as well, But these are more like 3x2 or 3x4. The plates talked about in this thread go above and beyond the plates that come with the bars in order to spread out the load even further and reduce chances of a punch through.
Now make sense for me
my cage came a equally big enough base plate to welded on the bottom of the cage /inside/
Plates are installed. The 1/4" steel is pretty darn heavy duty and with the tight Autopower roofline fitment, the headliner had to come out to accomodate the additional 1/4" of height to the unit. Not an issue for me, but if you want to keep your interior, maybe get 1/8" plates. Hope this thread's useful for others in the future.
Well, since I take my bar out in the winters (so I can carry my kids in the back), it was easy for me to measure the plates.
Thickness: 3/16"
Angle: 40* (Plate 1) and 43* (Plate 2)
Angled part height: 1.25" (Plate 1) and 1.5" (Plate 2)
Plate unbent (flat): 6"x8"
Reason for the discrepancy between plates is that a vice and a big hammer was used to bend them as opposed to a proper bender. I recall the 40* is a hair too little, so I'd go with something in the 41/42* range if you can actually measure the angle.
Thickness: 3/16"
Angle: 40* (Plate 1) and 43* (Plate 2)
Angled part height: 1.25" (Plate 1) and 1.5" (Plate 2)
Plate unbent (flat): 6"x8"
Reason for the discrepancy between plates is that a vice and a big hammer was used to bend them as opposed to a proper bender. I recall the 40* is a hair too little, so I'd go with something in the 41/42* range if you can actually measure the angle.
any chance you could have a set made up these days? having trouble finding a shop to do it.
