Additional Bolt-in Roll Bar support/backing plates
Additional Bolt-in Roll Bar support/backing plates
Earlier in the season, I came across a post that pictured an extra support plate for a bolt-in roll bar to spread out the surface area aiming at lessening the chances of the bar punching through the floor: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/8008936-post19.html
I really liked this idea, especially seeing how thin the floor is and already deforming from the small 3x4 plates that are welded to the Autopower bar. The thought of how easily it could just punch through scared me.
I had Parsons Fabrication make me a set of support backing plates. We decided to angle up the side a little to have the roll bar sit more in the middle of the plate. The plates are 6x8.
The install is easy... unbolt roll bar, slip the plate under where you want it, mark the holes from under the car, take the plates out and drill the holes, slip back in and re-bolt.
Plate Specs:
Thickness: 3/16"
Angle: 40* (Plate 1) and 43* (Plate 2)
Angled part height: 1.25" (Plate 1) and 1.5" (Plate 2)
Plate unbent (flat): 6"x8"
Reason for the discrepancy between plates is that a vice and a big hammer was used to bend them as opposed to a proper bender. I recall the 40* is a hair too little, so I'd go with something in the 41/42* range if you can actually measure the angle.
Disclaimer: Of course this is not as good as a properly welded supports, with a welded cage, but it is a one step better over not having anything at all.
I really liked this idea, especially seeing how thin the floor is and already deforming from the small 3x4 plates that are welded to the Autopower bar. The thought of how easily it could just punch through scared me.
I had Parsons Fabrication make me a set of support backing plates. We decided to angle up the side a little to have the roll bar sit more in the middle of the plate. The plates are 6x8.
The install is easy... unbolt roll bar, slip the plate under where you want it, mark the holes from under the car, take the plates out and drill the holes, slip back in and re-bolt.
Plate Specs:
Thickness: 3/16"
Angle: 40* (Plate 1) and 43* (Plate 2)
Angled part height: 1.25" (Plate 1) and 1.5" (Plate 2)
Plate unbent (flat): 6"x8"
Reason for the discrepancy between plates is that a vice and a big hammer was used to bend them as opposed to a proper bender. I recall the 40* is a hair too little, so I'd go with something in the 41/42* range if you can actually measure the angle.
Disclaimer: Of course this is not as good as a properly welded supports, with a welded cage, but it is a one step better over not having anything at all.
Last edited by xtnct; Feb 4, 2011 at 09:40 AM.
Well done.
The original pic is from my car. Since I'm pulled out the carpet, I'll try to add an updated pic shortly.
Pic added! Forgive the mess; it's all my traqmate cables shoved out of the way:
The original pic is from my car. Since I'm pulled out the carpet, I'll try to add an updated pic shortly.
Pic added! Forgive the mess; it's all my traqmate cables shoved out of the way:
Last edited by boomn29; Feb 3, 2011 at 03:31 PM.
You should stitch weld the plate in for sure, including the area where it bends up by the door frame. That will add a bunch of strength.
I'm planning on putting in a little roll bar for this season. I didn't have time to build a cage like I wanted.
I think I'll weld in large pads for now - looking to tie into the frame, and then bolt the cage to the pads. That way I can remove the roll bar easily when I do get around to building the real cage.
I'm planning on putting in a little roll bar for this season. I didn't have time to build a cage like I wanted.
I think I'll weld in large pads for now - looking to tie into the frame, and then bolt the cage to the pads. That way I can remove the roll bar easily when I do get around to building the real cage.
So would you recommend going up to 1/4" steel? Also, any educated guesses as to the angle of the bend in the OP? About to get a quote from the fabricator and am looking for some specs.
Last edited by delongedoug; Feb 4, 2011 at 07:35 AM.
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Well, since I take my bar out in the winters (so I can carry my kids in the back), it was easy for me to measure the plates.
Thickness: 3/16"
Angle: 40* (Plate 1) and 43* (Plate 2)
Angled part height: 1.25" (Plate 1) and 1.5" (Plate 2)
Plate unbent (flat): 6"x8"
Reason for the discrepancy between plates is that a vice and a big hammer was used to bend them as opposed to a proper bender. I recall the 40* is a hair too little, so I'd go with something in the 41/42* range if you can actually measure the angle.
Thickness: 3/16"
Angle: 40* (Plate 1) and 43* (Plate 2)
Angled part height: 1.25" (Plate 1) and 1.5" (Plate 2)
Plate unbent (flat): 6"x8"
Reason for the discrepancy between plates is that a vice and a big hammer was used to bend them as opposed to a proper bender. I recall the 40* is a hair too little, so I'd go with something in the 41/42* range if you can actually measure the angle.
Last edited by xtnct; Feb 4, 2011 at 09:38 AM.
The plates under the car are the ones that would prevent the bar from ripping out of the floor should your car slide on the roof for a while and hit something sideways (includes front or back impacts too). In these situations (upright or upside down) the extra plates would not help much anyway as the bolts would snap like twigs first or just cut through floor sheet matal (like a string through cardboard). You'd want a properly welded in roll bar (or cage) to counter those kind of forces...
Is there any interest in a group buy for these plates? I could check with my fab guy if he is interested in making a run of these if there is enough interest. They would come unpainted and NOT drilled (you need to do this on your own to match your bar)
Cost would be around $35 shipped give or take a few.
Cost would be around $35 shipped give or take a few.
Well, since I take my bar out in the winters (so I can carry my kids in the back), it was easy for me to measure the plates.
Thickness: 3/16"
Angle: 40* (Plate 1) and 43* (Plate 2)
Angled part height: 1.25" (Plate 1) and 1.5" (Plate 2)
Plate unbent (flat): 6"x8"
Reason for the discrepancy between plates is that a vice and a big hammer was used to bend them as opposed to a proper bender. I recall the 40* is a hair too little, so I'd go with something in the 41/42* range if you can actually measure the angle.
Thickness: 3/16"
Angle: 40* (Plate 1) and 43* (Plate 2)
Angled part height: 1.25" (Plate 1) and 1.5" (Plate 2)
Plate unbent (flat): 6"x8"
Reason for the discrepancy between plates is that a vice and a big hammer was used to bend them as opposed to a proper bender. I recall the 40* is a hair too little, so I'd go with something in the 41/42* range if you can actually measure the angle.
3 of us are getting roll bars so I ordered up 6 plates from my local fabrication shop, Metal Industries in Hartford. They did my tow hook last year based on Smike's install of the now defunct Hot Lap Motorsports piece and it came out well. For anyone interested:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...on-w-pics.html
Anyways, I gave him the specs from xtnct above (thank you again!) and drew up a rough template in Paint.
Here's the finished product:
So there you have it. All the blueprints to get these made yourself. I'll be doing the install next weekend.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...on-w-pics.html
Anyways, I gave him the specs from xtnct above (thank you again!
) and drew up a rough template in Paint.Here's the finished product:
So there you have it. All the blueprints to get these made yourself. I'll be doing the install next weekend.
No. That is not the point of the plates. The point of these plates is to spread the load so that the bar does not punch though your floor if the car flips over, like in the picture below.
The plates under the car are the ones that would prevent the bar from ripping out of the floor should your car slide on the roof for a while and hit something sideways (includes front or back impacts too). In these situations (upright or upside down) the extra plates would not help much anyway as the bolts would snap like twigs first or just cut through floor sheet matal (like a string through cardboard). You'd want a properly welded in roll bar (or cage) to counter those kind of forces...
The plates under the car are the ones that would prevent the bar from ripping out of the floor should your car slide on the roof for a while and hit something sideways (includes front or back impacts too). In these situations (upright or upside down) the extra plates would not help much anyway as the bolts would snap like twigs first or just cut through floor sheet matal (like a string through cardboard). You'd want a properly welded in roll bar (or cage) to counter those kind of forces...
example one of these of my old IX RS when we installed it....
after the install we pinted to them black.
this is another one i think the rear ones.
Last edited by Robevo RS; Feb 13, 2011 at 10:44 AM.
putting plates on the outside of the car only helps if your cage is getting pulled (potentially from landing on the side, or a side impact). on a upsidedown crash like that mustang, backing plates wont do anything, and then your relying on the strength of the actual skin of the floor pan. exactly like xtnct said. but if your at all serious about your safety the base plates should be welded in. bolt in cages are not meant for serious motorsports.