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Autocross Setup Advice Needed

Old Oct 19, 2010 | 05:31 AM
  #16  
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wreckless- Depending on your local region and who is around, you may find yourself doing alright locally, Remember those that do well at the national level probably 95% of them have a car purpose built for the class rules, often trailered in, and pampered in every way possible. I hope you have a great time in 2011 running SM, I went from running in the national crowd in my CRX to the Evo, where I just am enjoying the car being killer quick, and I am not worried about national trophies anymore. Simply learning the car the best I can, getting seat time, and enjoying the high points of the evo as it is my daily driver as well. (Previous autoX car was a trailer queen). Good luck and Enjoy.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 03:01 PM
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FWIW, here's my .02:

Keep it simple and go slow with mods. Start with a quality street tire and get comfortable driving it to the limit consistently. Once you can do this, start addressing the car's body roll and balance. Take your time, don't add parts when you're not driving what you have to the limit, and get lots of seat time.
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 12:05 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by boost247
FWIW, here's my .02:

Keep it simple and go slow with mods. Start with a quality street tire and get comfortable driving it to the limit consistently. Once you can do this, start addressing the car's body roll and balance. Take your time, don't add parts when you're not driving what you have to the limit, and get lots of seat time.
Agreed. Just have fun this next season and get as much seat time as you can.

I would not jump right into double adjustable coilovers right off the bat. Do a lot of research next season while having fun and then start to get more serious building for a specific class.

- Andrew
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 03:08 PM
  #19  
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Yeah I mean the main point is to have fun ofcourse and I definitly know I need seat time, but I would still like to do as well as I can. I mean ideally I would like to do well enough to pull a sponsorship or 2 for next season...I dont wanna be rich but if I can break even on the cost to enjoy myself on the weekend I would be more than happy.
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Old Oct 21, 2010 | 05:42 AM
  #20  
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AutoX sponsorships are rare, I would guess less than 5% of NATIONAL competitors have them. That is a tall order, I wish you well, but I would expect you need to be both an incredible driver, and have a purpose built car for whichever class you choose to run...

Agreed with Andrew & co, have fun, learn the limits of the car as it stands, then decide WHAT you need to change to gain time... ride and have other FAST drivers ride with you, critique, etc. that can be invaluable.
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Old Feb 27, 2017 | 09:25 PM
  #21  
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Old thread but looking for advice on my setup and ongoing issues. I recently installed a set of coilovers and with poor oversight didn't do a good inspection after install. This led me to have issues with my setup and not be competitive in our local autocross events. Prior to my coilover install I was on stock KYB with Hotchkis lowering springs and I had a rear diff stack with stock sway bars and Rpf1 9.5 17" wheels and I was very competitive. I've since wanted to invest in coilovers and do the Whiteline Roll Center Kit, rear Whiteline bushings. I've done two events and my car had RE71R 245/40-17 which were worn out. My last two events with the coilovers installed "incorrect ride height" has put me behind and guessing my setup.
I've since added 25mm rear sway bar, set to full soft and with my ride height sorted out the install issue I think I've balanced the setup. I've also gone to 255/40-17 RE71R and run 10k F 12k R spring rates. My previous issues with my car is right handers and loosing the rear end and spinning out. I'm currently 4 clicks away from full soft on the rear coilovers and 4 clicks from full stiff in the front. My car feels like it's on rails and any slight input in the steering causes the car to move in that direction. Others have said it's literally like a go cart. I recently decided to raise the rear ride height a little with the new tires. I left the front the same as before. I did also get a new alignment which I have -2.5 F -1.7 R and 0 toe all around. Since the new alignment I haven't taken the car to
Autocross but feel it's better. I'm looking forward to the end of March events to test the new alignment and ride height. I run 36 psi F and 32 R tire pressure. My Evo IX has around 300 whp. I'm trying to over come the rear from coming around so abruptly when trying to get on the gas on apex or exit of a turn. Any thoughts about my setup?

Last edited by Wanted EVO IX; Feb 27, 2017 at 09:40 PM.
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Old Feb 27, 2017 | 09:58 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Wanted EVO IX
Old thread but looking for advice on my setup and ongoing issues. I recently installed a set of coilovers and with poor oversight didn't do a good inspection after install. This led me to have issues with my setup and not be competitive in our local autocross events. Prior to my coilover install I was on stock KYB with Hotchkis lowering springs and I had a rear diff stack with stock sway bars and Rpf1 9.5 17" wheels and I was very competitive. I've since wanted to invest in coilovers and do the Whiteline Roll Center Kit, rear Whiteline bushings. I've done two events and my car had RE71R 245/40-17 which were worn out. My last two events with the coilovers installed "incorrect ride height" has put me behind and guessing my setup.
I've since added 25mm rear sway bar, set to full soft and with my ride height sorted out the install issue I think I've balanced the setup. I've also gone to 255/40-17 RE71R and run 10k F 12k R spring rates. My previous issues with my car is right handers and loosing the rear end and spinning out. I'm currently 4 clicks away from full soft on the rear coilovers and 4 clicks from full stiff in the front. My car feels like it's on rails and any slight input in the steering causes the car to move in that direction. Others have said it's literally like a go cart. I recently decided to raise the rear ride height a little with the new tires. I left the front the same as before. I did also get a new alignment which I have -2.5 F -1.7 R and 0 toe all around. Since the new alignment I haven't taken the car to
Autocross but feel it's better. I'm looking forward to the end of March events to test the new alignment and ride height. I run 36 psi F and 32 R tire pressure. My Evo IX has around 300 whp. I'm trying to over come the rear from coming around so abruptly when trying to get on the gas on apex or exit of a turn. Any thoughts about my setup?
The stiff rear springs, decent LSD, and sway bar are probably contributing to the oversteer. That's also quite a bit of tire pressure. Do you ever chalk your tires? I run the same wheel and tire but am down to a bout 30psi front and 28psi rear (approx.. I'd have to look at my notes).
What are the reasons for the ride height change? I'd guess adding rake to promote understeer?
You may need to be a bit easier on the gas pedal too.
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Old Feb 27, 2017 | 10:08 PM
  #23  
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My tire pressure has been an ongoing issue as I had more success with 38 psi F 32R psi previous. Now this is a larger tire size from the stretched 245/40-17. Keep in mind I haven't run the new tires in competition. Another Evo IX driver told me he has 30 psi F and 28 psi R and loves it. I think my problem was this. I was 1" more compressed on the driver side than the passenger side. The raise to the rear ride height comes because the car was too low with the 245/40-17 tires.


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Old Feb 27, 2017 | 11:48 PM
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1" difference will make a car handle whacky.

What do you mean the car was too low? Rubbing tires?
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 06:28 AM
  #25  
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When I was running the 245 tires I had the car slammed and couldn't fit the new tires on the car. I raised it up to fit the 255.

Last edited by Wanted EVO IX; Feb 28, 2017 at 10:14 AM.
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 09:33 AM
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Car has too much rear camber, back it down to -1.4, -1.5. Your dampers should be closer in position on the clicks. Try stiffening the rear up. Too much weight transfer, and relying more on the sway bar than the dampers to prevent body roll is likely hurting rear grip. I would reset the damper to the middle, and go from there.
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 10:07 AM
  #27  
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Once you set the ride height to match, I would also add front camber. There is noway you should be running those pressures on stretched stones.
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by laloosh
Once you set the ride height to match, I would also add front camber. There is noway you should be running those pressures on stretched stones.
I think -2.5 camber is probably OK. I used to turn that on my Z2's for autocross. Do agree on pressure though. For AX, 32/32 hot is probably OK. When I ran Z2's, I ran 32/29 hot...
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 10:59 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Car has too much rear camber, back it down to -1.4, -1.5. Your dampers should be closer in position on the clicks. Try stiffening the rear up. Too much weight transfer, and relying more on the sway bar than the dampers to prevent body roll is likely hurting rear grip. I would reset the damper to the middle, and go from there.
I was previously set at -2.5 F -1.5 R 0 toe all around. I'm experimenting with the setup or alignment that I shared in the previous post. I will back the rear rebound down and start from there. I feel like I'm close to nailing this cars setup. Thanks form the input,
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 11:13 AM
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Your post says:


"I'm currently 4 clicks away from full soft on the rear coilovers and 4 clicks from full stiff in the front."


The rear is set too soft. the increased weight transfer is making the car slide. Also, try a bit of rear toe in to calm down the tail happiness.
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