Thanks for posting your mod list...BTW, what is the weight of those rear lower control arms compared to stockers??

 

So can you run the ST43 brake pads? That will be way better than HP+'s. In my laziness I've put a fair number of street miles on my ST43's. Like driving the car on my 100 mile work commute with the race tires and pads still on - I did that when I needed to review the tune and had no free-time. So I used the work commute for a week while still in race trim.

 

Good luck to you.

 

HAHA i was looking for the same. good eye too. seems we may think alike.

 

haha...I'm not as bad as you yet but I am slowly becoming obsessed with it...and those control arms are pretty pricey...I have their fender braces on my car...

http://www.fftec.com/product.php?pro...1&cat=0&page=1

 

I totally agree.

The HP+ are more of an AX pad. Good to 700F. Past that temperature they will start to wear much faster and give you a lot less stopping power. And you've been running the ST43s for a while right? So you know how they feel and run for HPDE. I'd stick with a fresh set.

Edit more: Since you are limited to street tires. High tq pads might overcome the level of grip you can get from your tires (lock up). But you make a lot of power. So add that into the mix too. You will make speed (and need to stop that speed).

Other options for your power levels:

Racing Brake ET900: 300-1600F, high torque
Performance Friction 01: 167-2000F, high torque
Carbotech XP12: 250 to 2000F, high torque
Raybestos ST43: ? to 1400F, high torque Review Here
EBC BlueStuff: 300-1750F, high torque
CL RC6: 0-1800F, 0.5 drag coefficient (intermediate to high torque)
CL RC8: 0-1800F, 0.6 drag coefficient (high torque)

Tires:
You want a good working temp range. Good wet and dry grip. I'd still consider the Z1*. Z1*s come up to temp quicker. For 3 laps, I'd want to get heat in the tire on the 1st lap. Then 2 hot laps.

Not all the tires you listed. But some more information for you.

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...mparison_tests

http://www.caranddriver.com/var/ezfl...fa4477cd02.pdf

 

Exciting! Best of luck!!!! Also wondering if the Nagasi control arms are lighter than stock. ;-)

 

Sorry, I missed you guys asking about the arms. They are made out of steel rather than aluminum like the stockers, so they are heavier. I don't think any of the adjustable ones can be lighter than the stockers. . .

As for brake pads - I appreciate everyone's input. I forgot about the Ferodo DS2500 pads. Sounds like they may be a better pad than the HP+ for street/3-lap battles. . .

I ran the Raybestos ST43 all last year for track days. They worked beautifully. The year before that I used them for autocross and had them on the car for probably 1000 street miles and they scored the rotors very badly. When they are not up to temp they seem to act like sand paper on rotors, rather than glue. That's why I am hesitant to run them for the ONE LAP. I am starting with a brand new set of rotors and do not want to destroy them in 1 week. So I'm trying to find something in between a street pad and race pad. . .

 

The rebate on the tires comes from the manufacturers, ultimately. The fact that the Hankooks aren't on the list have nothing to do with Brock or Tire Rack.

Last year was the first year that it didn't rain on the entire event. In 2009 most of the trip was in the rain, so it really made a difference to have something ready for either.

I also know with Tim driving, it is important for us to have something that does well off-road. Ok, in fairness, we all went off-road, but Tim seems to add flare to it whenever it happens.

There is one warm up lap. Everybody hauls **** on the warm up lap, giving you a chance to get the tires warmed up. Somebody mentioned using the 1st of the 3 laps to warm them up. Everything should be ready to rock after the first lap.

Stephen

 

So there is one warm up lap. Then you stop. Then they start cars at an interval from a dead stop and you have 3 laps timed for total time? That's the way I interpreted it. . .

 

Exactly. Typically you get staged up with 5 cars on the track and they let you go at intervals to keep the group spaced out. You rip around for a recon lap, come back to start/finish and wait for the lineup again. Waiting only takes a minute or two, and once the cars are back they start the process for the real laps.

Stephen

 

I just got my exhaust goodies back from Swain Coatings. Looks pretty clean - now lets see how long it will stay that way! My hotside for my new CBRD BBK should be here in a couple weeks

 

Good stuff - in for further details as the prep continues.

Dave

 

As far as pads go, I'd run the HP+ all around for in between events, and then find a dedicated race pad for the front that matches the HP+ bite and leave the HP+ on the rear. Changing front pads for an event shouldn't take more than 20 minutes (that's me lugging my fat, lazy a$$ around the car for reference). Could probably be done in less than 5 minutes if you get good at it. Speaking from experience, the HP+ will not be enough for 3 hard laps in an Evo.

l8r)

 

I love Swaintech's craftsmanship! Those parts will stay like that til you drive in the rain or wash the car--then it becomes a musty gray/yellow

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