Vehicle336

Disclaimer: I know many many people have asked this question before, but from the VAST majority of the research I've read, many are looking for a coilover system that is still streetable and compromises between track and the street.
My car is not DD, so a stiff ride doesn't really bother me. There are few threads for those starting out in motorsports, and I figure a lively discussion will benefit many other drivers to come.

Car: 2003 Evo VIII
Driver: AutoX Experience, HPDE's

My goals: Right now I AutoX about 15-20 events a year, however, over the next 12 months I hope to convert me (the chitty driver) and my Evo to a decent road racer. 'm also hoping to earn a competition license as well - though it may yet be awhile, and when I do I will be competing in a local racing series that is wheel to wheel, but I also plan on doing TT and continue AutoXing as well.

What happened: I recently purchased this Evo from a friend and it came equipped with some D2 coils, RSB and other crap, and now after trying to get a decent alignment set up, I've managed to take more steps backwards than forwards.

This car is an original Utah car and was used as a daily driver, that means salt and snow. And lots of it. So far the inner tie-rods and outer -tie rods had to be replaced - they were completely frozen in place. After replacing the inners and upgrading to the whiteline RCK, all four of the camber bolts in the rear will need to be replaced - as they alignment tech stripped two of them in an attempt to align the car. To top that all off, the tech and I both noticed that the LF and the RR shocks are leaking. I now have two blown coils ...

I find myself needing a replacement suspension in order to continue competitively driving it.

I am a novice still. I do not need, nor want a 5000 dollar JRZ suspension. My budget right now is small, as I still have plenty of other items I need to tackle on this car first. I am looking at spending 15-1700 bucks max. I really can't justify spending any more than that right now, and I can't really even afford that as it is (at least for the next month or two).

I do NOT give a **** about ride quality. This car is not daily driven, and over the course of the next year, this fat bastard is going to go on a strict diet, and so is the car.

My question is this: Using the experience you have and knowing what my goals are, what is a good set up that will help not only my car's performance, but can be used as a stepping stone until I feel both my driving skill, and budget, can make use of a JRZ-style suspension. I'd like to stick with coils, as I still want to be competitive locally in SM, and honestly, I like the adjustability.

I am thinking spring rates in the 10k range or slightly above are ideal for my purposes, and as I am still progressing as a driver, three-way adjustability is something that will be over my head and not necessary. Information on the topic of coilovers is more often than not mouth diarrhea, so what features should I, and other novices, be looking for?

Short version: I am fat, I want to race, I need coilovers, I am cheap, I do not DD the car, the car will use NT-01's or full slicks, what coilovers would you recommend and what features and benefits are really something I can use?

Vehicle336

Wow that's long....


Sorry. (Reserved for now)

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

Well that's the issue isn't it. There have been lots of threads on here asking for 1000 dollar coilovers that do "the trick" but in reality they DON'T. Believe us we've all beaten this to death. The stiffer they are also doesn't mean they are any better/faster. The 5k coilovers are 5k for a reason because they can be smooth, fast, and last. So the coils inbetween 2k and 5k are where you should look at. The most common are KWV3's, JIC's, AST, etc in that price range. I could go specific ones that kick *** for the Evo chassis specifically but from the sounds of it your really not ready to listen to or buy something that works.

As i'm sure others will suggest - Get Bilstein HD's and some springs. They'll outperform and outlast 99% of the 500-1.5k junk and give you more $ for track time and other mods you claim to need.

For notes - the only reason you ever will get any speed out of coils is if you:

A. Know the track and the car and how to adjust them with data telemetry to back it up
B. Your running a slick enough tire and have the perfect alignment, perfect pressures and wear, but aren't getting enough rotation or traction out of them
C. If you don't fall into A or B - You have a suspension tuner that does all of this for you

Robevo RS

iTrader: (16)

Need dedicated coilover ? You need more the $4K.
There is no miricales or short cuts in racing.
Either you will listen for a track guys and make it easy for you or you will learned it a hard way.
As most of us... LOL

ReaperX

iTrader: (5)

Bilsteins..... w/ Swift Spec-R's (I am one of the others that will suggest this). That way you'll only have to focus on becoming a better driver rather than trying to figure out ride height and damper settings. If you want more camber than the stock adjustment you can get some camber plates.

Search the SmikeEvo Setup.

Pure EvoIX

iTrader: (7)

#1 Do it once, do it right.
#2 Save up until you can do it once, do it right.
#3 Keep saving until you can afford KWs, Ohlins, ASTs.

Imagine buying some crappy $1k coilovers, then 1 year later it blows on you. Then you spend another $400-500 to rebuild them, then last another year. Will there even be support for those lower end coilovers and who can rebuild them? Ask yourself those questions. Then you say screw this and step up to my suggestions in #3. You end up spending more. If you can't afford good quality suspension parts, I say stay stock until you can afford it. You really don't want to do things 3 times and spend twice as much.

What you are asking for " I am fat, I want to race, I need coilovers, I am cheap, I do not DD the car, the car will use NT-01's or full slicks, what coilovers would you recommend and what features and benefits are really something I can use?" doesnt really exist. There is a compromise.

I suggest KWs because I have them and love them. They also resist rust and salt because of their build quality.

But if you must spend $1700max then look into Muellerized Skunk 2 Coilovers, JIC FLT-TAR, Bilstein PSS9.

EDIT: just realized all of us basically echoed the same thing to certain degree. We are all here to help.

xtnct

iTrader: (33)

That ^^^, especially that you say you are a novice. I'm not a novice and I have been using a similar setup for a few years (Spec-R with stock KYB shocks) along with RCK and camber plates. Spend your $$$ on track time, will be much more worth it.

Vehicle336

I get it, there's really nothing in that 1500 dollar range that's worth the time or the money. I prefer to do it right the first time as well, I think what's best is if I save up a little more I can pick up something nice.

Ultimately I would just like to get out on the track as well, the longer I save up for a nice set up, the longer it will be until I can get back to the track.

Robi's KW's have always been something I wanted to pick up, but initially I thought I could just use what I had on the car already until I could afford that set up. In the meantime I was trying to pick up safety equipment and brakes first, and then during the off-season upgrade the suspension.

As it is now, I find myself more or less forced into this position, as now two of my coils are completely shot - I can't safely compete like this.

So there is NO stop gap measure really...

Do it right the first time it is. Thank you all for your advice.

And yes, I am willing to listen... (that was an uncalled for shot)

Edit: I am hesitant to go with used bilsteins, as the used set-up I currently have obviously didn't work. From what I've read, new bilsteins and good springs run ~ 1300 bucks. Is a 1500 dollar set of coils really not an upgrade over the bilstein set-up?

Balrok

iTrader: (15)

If setup correctly, such as with Robi, Nope.

ReaperX

iTrader: (5)

I picked up a set of Bilsteins/SpecR's for under $400 from a member who tracks his IX. If they ever need rebuilt they would only cost $75/strut and $65/shock. Now that could increase if the components are damaged, but always check out everything before you buy.

You're also starting in the right direction with upgrading your safety equipment and brakes.

Any questions you have no matter how dumb you think they are.... us in the motorsports section like to offer help rather than bash (like in some of the other sections on here).

Noob4life

Any experienced racers want to comment on why stock or MR Bilsteins are not suitable for the novice driver? Maybe those that have used the factory shocks and springs with track-oriented pads, brakes and/or aero can provide their thoughts on why/when the factory stuff becomes the handicap in an otherwise well-designed setup, and give some pros and cons. Maybe a view from the "bottom-up" can help the OP decide whether or not a change at this point is even necessary.

Robevo RS

iTrader: (16)

^^^ stock set up goes a long way in the evo.
If you do basic upgrades on the brakes , and you put a race tires on the stock evo, you have done enough to be a big surprise on the event

Most people see the advance only in the set up they have, and very easy to for get one big element ... The driver skill-confidence.

Rob

Robevo RS

iTrader: (16)

Also for a novice driver the stock set up is much more predicatble, there for is much better to learn the drive caracteristics for the evo.

Vehicle336

^ I love your Hungarian English. Hunglish? I have a degree in English Education should you ever have a question about writing clearer in English let me know.

So really I have two choices:

1. Go the Bilstein route and be back to racing sooner
2. Go big-boy set up and be set for a while

Vehicle336

This would be interesting to know as well.

It's hard when you're new not to want to upgrade the car in the hopes that better equipment will trickle down and create a better driver. Part of me just wants to have nice equipment on the car, and part of me knows I should be saving money and spending more of it on safety and the driver mod first.

Who rebuilds the Bilsteins? Bilstein themselves?