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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 08:34 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by KevinD
my car is pretty light, i did the aluminum roof, carbon trunk, dry carbon hood, headlight deletes, i made a custom wiring harness for the stock ecu (eliminates the fuse panels and almost all of the wires from the car). two piece AL drive shaft, lexan windows, two peice brake rotors, quartermaster twin clutch (a lot lighter then stock, ACT or exedy twin). removed the dash, one recaro race seat, reworked the steering column (quite a bit of heavy gauge steel for the stock one), gutted doors, fuel cell, etc etc etc etc.... the car weighs ~ 2600lbs with a full NASA spec cage.

my winter project is a custom column and dash bar. i think there is a lot to be had there. mind sharing what you did? is it still adjustable or no.
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 09:15 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by evodan2004

carbon fiber hood/trunk is another great way.
Carbon Fiber hoods and trunks (less you buy the single sheet dry carbon) are no weight savings.

Unless, you gut them off all of their framing. I took a used hood and trunk, and gutted all the fiberglass framing from them. My hood weighs in at 10lbs, and the trunk weighs in at 4.5lbs.
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 09:18 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by SmokingTires
Carbon Fiber hoods and trunks (less you buy the single sheet dry carbon) are no weight savings.

Unless, you gut them off all of their framing. I took a used hood and trunk, and gutted all the fiberglass framing from them. My hood weighs in at 10lbs, and the trunk weighs in at 4.5lbs.

my fiber image trunk weighs 6lbs. i didn't cut anything.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 06:51 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by SmokingTires
Carbon Fiber hoods and trunks (less you buy the single sheet dry carbon) are no weight savings.

Unless, you gut them off all of their framing. I took a used hood and trunk, and gutted all the fiberglass framing from them. My hood weighs in at 10lbs, and the trunk weighs in at 4.5lbs.
My hood weighs 2lb 11oz . It's just a skin though, it's identical to mark berrys but with slightly less carbon and some honeycomb underneath so it's not to flexible.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 02:55 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by KevinD
My hood weighs 2lb 11oz . It's just a skin though, it's identical to mark berrys but with slightly less carbon and some honeycomb underneath so it's not to flexible.
What's the price difference? Mine was $150

I guess I'm just a cheap. Expensive where it counts
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 03:07 PM
  #21  
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I don't have a price Becuase my friend made it for us (and we got mark hooked up as well)

Based off the price of the mold and the fact no one realistically will pull the trigger on such an expensive piece, it would be well over 1000 to make another. Granted we still have the mold
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 03:22 PM
  #22  
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OP, here is a weight reduction thread with a ton of info in it if you haven't seen it...

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/in...have-done.html
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 03:42 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by KevinD
I don't have a price Becuase my friend made it for us (and we got mark hooked up as well)

Based off the price of the mold and the fact no one realistically will pull the trigger on such an expensive piece, it would be well over 1000 to make another. Granted we still have the mold
I was thinking of vacuum baging one off of my current hood (OE Style). It doesn't have to be perfect size as I can trim it (I'm not trying to win a show). I figured I could make a thin one for $200. Just low on my list.

I'm dreaming of the budget to buy a light weight rear subframe. Dang those are pretty.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by SmokingTires

I'm dreaming of the budget to buy a light weight rear subframe. Dang those are pretty.
Pic/examples?
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 07:42 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Balrok
Pic/examples?
I know nothing....




I heard 39lbs weight loss. Cost is upwards of $1500.

Last edited by SmokingTires; Sep 21, 2011 at 09:36 AM.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 08:50 PM
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I would do driveline weight reduction.I don't know how aluminum hat rotors would in road racing but that would reduce rotating mass some.I had kirkey seats and they weigh in at 15lbs as opposed to the 35lbs plus stockers that's if they are legal in your class.they aren't the worst seats but I wouldn't drive cross country in them.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 03:16 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Gordian79
I would do driveline weight reduction.I don't know how aluminum hat rotors would in road racing but that would reduce rotating mass some.I had kirkey seats and they weigh in at 15lbs as opposed to the 35lbs plus stockers that's if they are legal in your class.they aren't the worst seats but I wouldn't drive cross country in them.
Yeah I don't see myself driving more than 2 hours max.


How much do these hoods and trunks without bracing flex? I'm guessing hood pins are a must but what about the trunk.

I think my A/C is coming out this winter. I would like to get to 2800 in street trim.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 04:13 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by XcreatonX

How much do these hoods and trunks without bracing flex? I'm guessing hood pins are a must but what about the trunk.
Well placed hood pins will minimize flex. I run 4 captive hood pins on each. Dzus pins would be even better, but are more work to install.




I've never had enough flex to worry about it, but I also don't track day. Just make sure your hood pins are all the way secure or your windshield might get an introduction to your hood... Part of the reason I don't run hinges anymore. (extra weight!)
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 07:38 PM
  #29  
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From: Des Moines
What are you putting down for power smoking?

what are you running for a steering wheel. I figure a couple lbs could be had there vs the stocker.
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 08:27 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by XcreatonX
What are you putting down for power smoking?

what are you running for a steering wheel. I figure a couple lbs could be had there vs the stocker.
Power? Enough


Stock steering wheel weighs very little once you remove the clock spring and air bag.



This picture was taken after just bolting the dash in. I cleaned up the wiring later.
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