evo setup for autox stock class
Originally Posted by urbanknight
Evo8LTW, not trying to pick a fight either, but when a rule says "Option package conversions may be performed between specific vehicles of a particular make and model, but only between configurations from within a particular model year. " then that means you can convert an Evo8 to an Evo RS of the same year. 2004 (year), Mitsubishi (make) Evo (model) are the same, and both are in the same stock class.
What I don't get is people so worried about "misinterpreting" the rules that they are scared to do things specifically allowed in the rules.
You CAN DEFINITELY swap 2004 Evo and Evo RS packages. If you want to be sure about what you can do to a 2003 model, email solotech@scca.com and then print the response and your @$$ is covered.
What I don't get is people so worried about "misinterpreting" the rules that they are scared to do things specifically allowed in the rules.
You CAN DEFINITELY swap 2004 Evo and Evo RS packages. If you want to be sure about what you can do to a 2003 model, email solotech@scca.com and then print the response and your @$$ is covered.
Originally Posted by EVO8LTW
We are in agreement that you can convert a 2004 Evo to a 2004 Evo RS and be legal in stock, but I can't imagine anyone doing it because you'd need to pull the ABS brakes off, remove all the sound deadening from the firewall, install nonpower locks/windows, etc.
So I'm pretty sure that you could leave the sound deadening on the car (comfort), and leave the power locks and windows (convenience).
Also, I believe you could keep the rear wiper, power mirrors, and map lights.
Good news for the Evo. Bad news for me is that I just took a good look at the update/backdate rules for STS. It says that the 2 models have to be listed on the same line in the Street Prepared list. Since we know they're going to move the Ralliart out of FSP soon, there goes my engine swap.
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Kennewick, WA
Is anybody running the maximum stock suspension settings (approx -2 degrees camber front and rear, zero toe front and approx. 1mm toe in rear) on the street and if you are, are you seeing any unusual tire wear?
I really need some more camber for the autox track, but don't want to smoke the street tires in the process.
Thanks,
Mark
I really need some more camber for the autox track, but don't want to smoke the street tires in the process.
Thanks,
Mark
Originally Posted by GVR-4
I really need some more camber for the autox track, but don't want to smoke the street tires in the process.
I don't have an Evo, but I have -2 front camber on a Lancer and am getting the most excellent tire wear I've seen on these forums. Most of the Evo drivers I know say that you need a minimum of -2 camber up front for autocross just to avoid chewing up the outside of the tires from the hard corners. I would tend to agree as I chewed up the shoulders on my race tires in only 2 track events and 4 autocrosses even with -2 camber.
Me too.. I have nearly identical alignment as jbrennen... 12k on the stock
Advans with very little tire wear.
max front camber: ~-1.8
rear camber: ~-1.5
front toe: 0
rear toe: 1/64" toe in
Advans with very little tire wear.
max front camber: ~-1.8
rear camber: ~-1.5
front toe: 0
rear toe: 1/64" toe in
Evolving Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
From: MD, USA
Just to add my 2 cents: camber will not create uneven tire wear, especially something as small as -2; even in the long run. What creates uneven tire wear more than anything is wild toe.
We run close to -4.0 and -3.0 on our car with R-comps for street, even though it is not daily driven we still put 12K mi. on it last year, tire wear has not been an issue; even with -1/4 toe
We run close to -4.0 and -3.0 on our car with R-comps for street, even though it is not daily driven we still put 12K mi. on it last year, tire wear has not been an issue; even with -1/4 toe
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Kennewick, WA
Good news.
The reason I asked is that this autox season, I was having to run very high pressures in the front tires and were still seeing lots of wear on the outside edges on the Kuhmo V700's.
I'll leave the settings stock for the winter, but next spring I'm adding camber. With any luck, I'll add a few more suspension pieces too...
Thanks,
Mark
The reason I asked is that this autox season, I was having to run very high pressures in the front tires and were still seeing lots of wear on the outside edges on the Kuhmo V700's.
I'll leave the settings stock for the winter, but next spring I'm adding camber. With any luck, I'll add a few more suspension pieces too...
Thanks,
Mark
Originally Posted by differentstroke
hi guys
I was thinking about trying autox I live in new york can someone send me to a site so I can find out what class I should go into my evo is highly modded
I was thinking about trying autox I live in new york can someone send me to a site so I can find out what class I should go into my evo is highly modded
Another answer is that if you're highly modded, you're probably in the Street Modified class, although there are a few "common" mods which are not legal in SM; mostly some chassis bracing bits like replacing the front strut bar, a triangulated rear strut bar, or the Cusco V2 lower arm brace.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
I ran a regular EVO 8 in AS this season. One of the issues that I was fighting was inside front tire wheel spin coming out of the corners. I was thinking about upgrading the front anti-roll bar for next season - but I was wondering if this would make the wheel spin problem better or worse? On one hand, it seems like less body roll would allow more weight to stay on both front tires. On the other hand, the stiffer front bar would seem more likely to pull more weight off the inside front once the body roll was happening.
George
George
Originally Posted by conevadr
On the other hand, the stiffer front bar would seem more likely to pull more weight off the inside front once the body roll was happening.
A softer front bar -- or no front bar at all -- would help the wheelspin problem, but could definitely hurt you in transitions (slaloms and offset gates).
A stiffer rear bar will transfer weight onto the inside front tire, helping your wheelspin problem and making the rear end transition a bit better... but of course the rear bar cannot be touched in Stock class.
As long as the MR is in AS, you can probably put the front limited slip deferential from the MR in your standard evo and still be in stock class. That should take care of the problem.
smanders
smanders