Advice setting up SM Evo
pretty nice list! looks like you've done your homework.. not sure what your goals are except to beat the people in your region.. to be nationally competitive like people said, car will barely be livable.. gutted, etc.
good luck
good luck
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Montreal
Went from 3.5 frt and 2.0 in the rear to 3.35 frt /1.5 rear, it helped with rotation.
I still want the car to be streetable and trackable in the rain. Not sure about toe, so I went with zero in the rear - a change from the factory pinch.
In the end, it will be more stimulating trying to make the EVO work, as opposed to the stagnant state of the ITR in DS.
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 535
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
Went from 3.5 frt and 2.0 in the rear to 3.35 frt /1.5 rear, it helped with rotation.
I still want the car to be streetable and trackable in the rain. Not sure about toe, so I went with zero in the rear - a change from the factory pinch.
In the end, it will be more stimulating trying to make the EVO work, as opposed to the stagnant state of the ITR in DS.
I still want the car to be streetable and trackable in the rain. Not sure about toe, so I went with zero in the rear - a change from the factory pinch.
In the end, it will be more stimulating trying to make the EVO work, as opposed to the stagnant state of the ITR in DS.
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Montreal
KW Clubsports, so I am guessing close to 500-600 rates?
Whiteline sway bars, 27mm frt and rear. I think I need to play with these a bit more. The only twaek I did was go from full soft frt rear to mid setting rear.
People tell me the AWD cars need stiff frt bar settings to provoke rotation...this goes against all I know about Hondas.
For pressures, I have started with all sorts , but I try to get them near 36 hot. I only have data from TAs, no autocross yet. on RS3s..
I suppose I will need a starting point on my A6s next year.
Whiteline sway bars, 27mm frt and rear. I think I need to play with these a bit more. The only twaek I did was go from full soft frt rear to mid setting rear.
People tell me the AWD cars need stiff frt bar settings to provoke rotation...this goes against all I know about Hondas.
For pressures, I have started with all sorts , but I try to get them near 36 hot. I only have data from TAs, no autocross yet. on RS3s..
I suppose I will need a starting point on my A6s next year.
sigh 
thought i'd post here in case anyone form this thread was interested,
please check https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...rness-bar.html
for a quick release harness bar, for anyone who still DD's their SM evo
FYI, one of the rally guys actually said the rebuilt TRE rear diff is actually more durable than some of the stuff from cusco and carbonetics, if that puts your mind at ease any for wear/tear for the rear diff
thought i'd post here in case anyone form this thread was interested,
please check https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...rness-bar.html
for a quick release harness bar, for anyone who still DD's their SM evo
FYI, one of the rally guys actually said the rebuilt TRE rear diff is actually more durable than some of the stuff from cusco and carbonetics, if that puts your mind at ease any for wear/tear for the rear diff
Dave
I'm running the ShepTrans 12-plate mod, but yes, I've had more reliability with that than the two high dollar units. Could also come down to the fact that my car's trying to put down power with one wheel in the air, and that shock loading when I come down from jumps is causing the failures.
Dave
Dave
I'm running the ShepTrans 12-plate mod, but yes, I've had more reliability with that than the two high dollar units. Could also come down to the fact that my car's trying to put down power with one wheel in the air, and that shock loading when I come down from jumps is causing the failures.
Dave
Dave
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