Kidloco51's IX MR track car build thread.
Nov 27, 2011, 03:36 PM
#61
How do you spray over the vents etc? Look between the two pictures about mu dash. I saw spray job , but all of them got reworked and got a real flocking later.... some reason or other...
Material is not heavy at all, i doubt you can really measure the difference but even then how much is that, 10 sandwich size slice pepperoni? LOL
So form there why would you do a job twice? Just save a little money in the first time and loosing it + labor when you will do it right?
No spray is not of my cup of tee. If you do it , do it right. Number one rule in racing.
No offense just my experience in racing , which can save you a real money.
Last edited by Robevo RS; Nov 27, 2011 at 03:39 PM.
Nov 27, 2011, 03:48 PM
#62
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http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2115918
It's $32 so can't beat the price. I had enough left over to do a couple more small panels if I want.
Only thing I'd do differently is get a friend to help apply the glue. You want to make sure you have the whole surface covered thoroughly in glue before applying the flocking material.
Jalal, it would be not really a good idea for a DD car, since it is very easy to get it dirty and hard to clean it perfectly. And i know you are a great photographer so you like details. 
I dont know really how much is cost alone, since they did it when they rebuild my car completely for a "group A" car, ergo "open class" here in the states.
So it was a package deal.
You have to talk to them how much it will cost if you want it. In person really looks astonishing .
Of course i can help you on that but not in this topic.
cheers Rob
I dont know really how much is cost alone, since they did it when they rebuild my car completely for a "group A" car, ergo "open class" here in the states.
So it was a package deal.
You have to talk to them how much it will cost if you want it. In person really looks astonishing .
Of course i can help you on that but not in this topic.
cheers Rob
I have no idea how much the alcantra stuff is, but again this diy kit is only $32 shipped to your door.
Nov 27, 2011, 04:03 PM
#63
I did it with my racecar and posted a how-to here:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2115918
It's $32 so can't beat the price. I had enough left over to do a couple more small panels if I want.
Only thing I'd do differently is get a friend to help apply the glue. You want to make sure you have the whole surface covered thoroughly in glue before applying the flocking material.
It's a perfectly fine idea for a DD. It doesn't get dirty unless you were to spill a liquid on it. It cleans fine. I usually use a lent roller, works great since the fibers aren't going anywhere.
I have no idea how much the alcantra stuff is, but again this diy kit is only $32 shipped to your door.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2115918
It's $32 so can't beat the price. I had enough left over to do a couple more small panels if I want.
Only thing I'd do differently is get a friend to help apply the glue. You want to make sure you have the whole surface covered thoroughly in glue before applying the flocking material.
It's a perfectly fine idea for a DD. It doesn't get dirty unless you were to spill a liquid on it. It cleans fine. I usually use a lent roller, works great since the fibers aren't going anywhere.
I have no idea how much the alcantra stuff is, but again this diy kit is only $32 shipped to your door.
just a sample pictures what i am talking about:
i think i talked enough about the flaking. If some one needs it LOL
if you can do it that cheap that is awesome by the way , and it is really good thing you can have in the race car. Plus i think it is really a great looking adition.
Rob
Nov 28, 2011, 09:02 PM
#64
Enough with the Flock
Well slowly but surely things are getting done. All the electrical is hooked up (including gauges and sensors) Started on the turbo tonight. Tomorrow finish up turbo, piping and install radiator. Hopefully fire the girl Wednesday
Well slowly but surely things are getting done. All the electrical is hooked up (including gauges and sensors) Started on the turbo tonight. Tomorrow finish up turbo, piping and install radiator. Hopefully fire the girl Wednesday
Nov 29, 2011, 09:36 PM
#66
^Thanks RJones
Well tonight was not my night to work on a car.....I struggled and cursed up a storm just doing simple stuff it seemed. I didn't get as far along as I wanted or planed. Any who on to the pics:
Windshield got reinstalled today.
My dad whipped up another heat shield to protect my sensor. It turned out sweet
Bought $150 worth of fluids..... :tear:
Got the turbo complete, ran the new turbo feed line, Radiator is in and a few small things.
Well tonight was not my night to work on a car.....I struggled and cursed up a storm just doing simple stuff it seemed. I didn't get as far along as I wanted or planed. Any who on to the pics:
Windshield got reinstalled today.
My dad whipped up another heat shield to protect my sensor. It turned out sweet
Bought $150 worth of fluids..... :tear:
Got the turbo complete, ran the new turbo feed line, Radiator is in and a few small things.
Dec 1, 2011, 04:30 PM
#69
Well some good and bad news.... I got the car all buttoned up (good). The car wont start (bad). The fuel pump isn't running and a I am getting zero spark. This leads me to believe I have a bad crank angle sensor? The sensor is getting 12 volts to it but I am not sure how to test the actual sensor? I pulled off my lower timing cover to check it out and everything looks ok. There is a hair line crack in the plastic where the bolt attaches. I wouldn't think that would effect it? I have a new sensor ordered up. Any ideas?
Dec 2, 2011, 07:48 PM
#70
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The fuel pump should prime and see power when the key is put to the ON position I believe - that seems fishy if it's not. Is it just not powering up in the start position then? I'm starting to talk myself into thinking you might be correct on the CAS being bad.
Good luck - this stuff sux.
Good luck - this stuff sux.
Dec 3, 2011, 10:18 PM
#71
The fuel pump should prime and see power when the key is put to the ON position I believe - that seems fishy if it's not. Is it just not powering up in the start position then? I'm starting to talk myself into thinking you might be correct on the CAS being bad.
Good luck - this stuff sux.
Good luck - this stuff sux.
Dec 4, 2011, 10:56 AM
#73
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Did you do anything to the wiring harness during the cage install? Is the fuel system new? I'd try some continuity checks working back from the fuel pumps. I'll go confirm that voltage shows up at the pump at ON.
Last edited by jid2; Dec 4, 2011 at 10:58 AM.
Dec 4, 2011, 01:29 PM
#74
Jid2, nothing was messed with on the harness. The fuel system is the same just new DW301 pump. I worked back like you said and this what I came up with....
Allright I had a chance to mess with the car today. I took the fuel pump out and checked connections. 2 of the clips inside of the housing were a little loose to my liking so I fixed that. I tested all the fuel relays. I then checked to see if I was getting voltage to the pump (I am 5.85 volts). I am also getting 5.xx volts to injectors with key in "on" position. When I go to crank the car over I am finally getting fuel to come out the return feed. (I am little relieved about that) I am still not getting spark still.
When key is "on" I won't see 12 volts at the pump and injectors right? Voltage is controlled through the ECU as needed right?
At least I am getting fuel now, I was getting a little worried.
Allright I had a chance to mess with the car today. I took the fuel pump out and checked connections. 2 of the clips inside of the housing were a little loose to my liking so I fixed that. I tested all the fuel relays. I then checked to see if I was getting voltage to the pump (I am 5.85 volts). I am also getting 5.xx volts to injectors with key in "on" position. When I go to crank the car over I am finally getting fuel to come out the return feed
. (I am little relieved about that) I am still not getting spark still.When key is "on" I won't see 12 volts at the pump and injectors right? Voltage is controlled through the ECU as needed right?
At least I am getting fuel now, I was getting a little worried.
Last edited by Kidloco51; Dec 4, 2011 at 01:32 PM.
Dec 6, 2011, 07:37 PM
#75
Today was a successful day! I had a chance to replace the crank angle sensor and button up a few other things like my leaky turbo return gasket (If you buy a AMS pan do not use the gasket they give you It leaks like a *****).
Sure enough my CAS was bad. After I installed the new CAS the motor fired right up
. Now I just need to triple check things, make some adjustments and get some miles logged on her then of to the dyno.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fw8yr25EHoc
Sure enough my CAS was bad. After I installed the new CAS the motor fired right up
. Now I just need to triple check things, make some adjustments and get some miles logged on her then of to the dyno.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fw8yr25EHoc