Track pad help for a rookie(noob)
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yeah i use amsoil for everything but brakes right now. i think im gonna stick with the super blue for ow just because it would be a pain to do a complete changeover/flush as oppose to a refresh right now.
the other thing i have to think about is oil...the last analysis i did on the amsoil 10w30 came back a little thinner than i would have liked. but thats a whole nother discussion.
the other thing i have to think about is oil...the last analysis i did on the amsoil 10w30 came back a little thinner than i would have liked. but thats a whole nother discussion.
yeah i use amsoil for everything but brakes right now. i think im gonna stick with the super blue for ow just because it would be a pain to do a complete changeover/flush as oppose to a refresh right now.
the other thing i have to think about is oil...the last analysis i did on the amsoil 10w30 came back a little thinner than i would have liked. but thats a whole nother discussion.
the other thing i have to think about is oil...the last analysis i did on the amsoil 10w30 came back a little thinner than i would have liked. but thats a whole nother discussion.
I use motul 5w40, redline mt85, diaqueen lsd, super blue. The super blue is mainly cause I haven't made them overheat yet and they last much longer than the motul variant. I do a full flush every season switching between type200 and super blue.
In the winters I switch engine oil to amsoil 0w30. Sucks doing many oil changes in the cold.
In the winters I switch engine oil to amsoil 0w30. Sucks doing many oil changes in the cold.
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I use motul 5w40, redline mt85, diaqueen lsd, super blue. The super blue is mainly cause I haven't made them overheat yet and they last much longer than the motul variant. I do a full flush every season switching between type200 and super blue.
In the winters I switch engine oil to amsoil 0w30. Sucks doing many oil changes in the cold.
In the winters I switch engine oil to amsoil 0w30. Sucks doing many oil changes in the cold.

IMO you should try super blue first. Don't go for the higher temp much more expensive fluids until you manage to boil super blue. It just lasts so much longer and is so much cheaper than motul (which is the next step). The problem with the uber grade brake fluids is they tend to pick up moisture easier and that reduces their lifespan in the system.
One thing to mention though....super blue stains your reservoir and brake system with that blue dye they use. If you're OCD and don't want the permanent blue stain on the components use ATE type200. Its the same thing....just without the blue dye.
One thing to mention though....super blue stains your reservoir and brake system with that blue dye they use. If you're OCD and don't want the permanent blue stain on the components use ATE type200. Its the same thing....just without the blue dye.
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From: Big city, Bright lights
IMO you should try super blue first. Don't go for the higher temp much more expensive fluids until you manage to boil super blue. It just lasts so much longer and is so much cheaper than motul (which is the next step). The problem with the uber grade brake fluids is they tend to pick up moisture easier and that reduces their lifespan in the system.
One thing to mention though....super blue stains your reservoir and brake system with that blue dye they use. If you're OCD and don't want the permanent blue stain on the components use ATE type200. Its the same thing....just without the blue dye.
One thing to mention though....super blue stains your reservoir and brake system with that blue dye they use. If you're OCD and don't want the permanent blue stain on the components use ATE type200. Its the same thing....just without the blue dye.
didt know you could get the ate without the dye. i dont mind the blue tho lol. reminds me what fluid it is
IMO you should try super blue first. Don't go for the higher temp much more expensive fluids until you manage to boil super blue. It just lasts so much longer and is so much cheaper than motul (which is the next step). The problem with the uber grade brake fluids is they tend to pick up moisture easier and that reduces their lifespan in the system.
One thing to mention though....super blue stains your reservoir and brake system with that blue dye they use. If you're OCD and don't want the permanent blue stain on the components use ATE type200. Its the same thing....just without the blue dye.
One thing to mention though....super blue stains your reservoir and brake system with that blue dye they use. If you're OCD and don't want the permanent blue stain on the components use ATE type200. Its the same thing....just without the blue dye.
Now while I'm sure I use my brakes a bit harder than most of you guys do, I would never wait until after I boiled fluid before I decided to upgrade brake fluid. When ive boiled the brake fluid my pedal has slammed to the floor with no brakes at all for that first pump, why wait for that to happen? If you're lucky you may just get a soft pedal and have to come in and bleed the brakes before it happens all over again. I run SRF the entire season without needing to bleed them even once (although I do right before the Runoffs just because) I had to bleed super blue after every session, that goes for the Motul as well. Brakes are nothing to be cheap about. 1 quart at the the beginning of each driving event/racing season and you are good to go. A side benefit is your pedal feels more stiff and is easier to modulate. If you are never going to be maxing your cars braking system, ignore everthing I just said. And no, I don't have an SRF sponsorship
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From: Big city, Bright lights
Now while I'm sure I use my brakes a bit harder than most of you guys do, I would never wait until after I boiled fluid before I decided to upgrade brake fluid. When ive boiled the brake fluid my pedal has slammed to the floor with no brakes at all for that first pump, why wait for that to happen? If you're lucky you may just get a soft pedal and have to come in and bleed the brakes before it happens all over again. I run SRF the entire season without needing to bleed them even once (although I do right before the Runoffs just because) I had to bleed super blue after every session, that goes for the Motul as well. Brakes are nothing to be cheap about. 1 quart at the the beginning of each driving event/racing season and you are good to go. A side benefit is your pedal feels more stiff and is easier to modulate. If you are never going to be maxing your cars braking system, ignore everthing I just said. And no, I don't have an SRF sponsorship 

that being said...i would be amazed if i boiled super blue in my first one or two hpde's personally.
the dry boiling point is ~60F less than srf, but the srf blows it out of the water (bad pun) in wet boiling point. so i think that would explain the lack of needing to bleed it.
my tentative plan is to revisit fluid choice in june at the same time i will be doing ss lines. the way the schedule is, i am hoping for 2-3 hpde's in april/may and then theres nothing in the region until almost august
. will give me time to hopefully adjust any weaknesses i find.
Last time I boiled brake fluid I realized my pedal was getting too squishy and came into the pits, at which point I couldn't stop my car and had to use the hand brake
. But warning signs will definitely be there. For something like fun track days as long as you're aware you are unlikely to completely loose braking all of a sudden. In competition though I can see it happening.
I have been in my friend's car though when he boiled his fluid and lost all braking power. Pretty scary. He just used as much engine braking as possible, cranked the wheel and hoped for the best. Turned out ok cause we're both still alive. You only need to boil fluid once to be very aware of the warning signs.
. But warning signs will definitely be there. For something like fun track days as long as you're aware you are unlikely to completely loose braking all of a sudden. In competition though I can see it happening. I have been in my friend's car though when he boiled his fluid and lost all braking power. Pretty scary. He just used as much engine braking as possible, cranked the wheel and hoped for the best. Turned out ok cause we're both still alive. You only need to boil fluid once to be very aware of the warning signs.



