I've had that same hanger break. Excellent use of bailing wire.

 

Saturday evening I rotated the tires; X'ing the front backwards. I figured the LF would be nearly bald - and it was. But the RF was worse! Sunday was going to be interesting with no grip in the rear, but I was thinking since the fronts looked ok that I'd at least be able to turn like I could early Sat.

Left side tires from Sat evening. Front on the left; rear on the right. I rotating the bald ones to the rear....



RF:


I made more suspension tweaks, rolling back the changes I made late Sat in hopes it would help the car grip more. I had some pulsing in the front end under braking on the out lap. I figured something was stuck to the rotor and/or the tires were flatspotted from sitting all night as I had reset my pressures to my normal morning starting pressures. It seemed to go away with some really hard jabs so I put it out of my mind and hit it hard. I ran 6 laps with a best of 1:18.2 which the car was no longer sliding, but rather drifting today! Jeff's Evo was behind me this session and got some good vid; check it out below.

For S2 I bettered my time to a 1:18.1 but that's all I could get. The rear was drifting around so much that I had to do more than countersteer, I had to get out of the gas some which is a killer for times. This is the session I put the camera on the rear and had a Mustang 302 behind me. My overall times were better than his, but in this session I just couldn't get the power down and after drifting through T4 and getting out of the gas I simply pointed him around.
When done, I looked over my tires carefully to see how bald the rears were now and to verify nothing was corded. The tires passed inspection, but the LF rotor did not. Check it out:



While I had a spare, it was 12:30pm at this point and very hot. With basically 0 chance to improve my times and only to play around more, I decided to forgo the fix and just pack things in and go surprise visit my Mom with it being Mother's day and all. It'd only add about 45min to my overall trip. With all the crazy turmoil with my wife's family recently; I've been trying to take the extra effort with regards to visits and calls and whatnot. I was actually going to cancel this event but the wife told me to go and enjoy the distractions. So I watched the start of my friend's race after packing up and took off.

Overall the car did great. No mechanical issues, just the broken exhaust bracket which was no biggie, the broken rotor which is a wear item and my boost gauge is still broke (so no, I've no idea what boost I was running). Oh, and my time easily held up Sunday for first in TTA once again.

After looking deeper at all my GPS data, everything is pretty cut and dry.
An 8/10's lap from 2011 on wider A6's yielded a nearly identical laptime to this year's lap at nearly 10/10's on skinnier R6's. Nuff said.
Braking force with R6's is crap compared to an A6; I had data confirming this already. Cornering G's were about the same but that's the 8/10's vs the 10/10's thing to allow that. I was able to push my brakezones a bit which is good and the car rotated great w/o hardly any understeer given what front grip I had at least.

The 2012 setup vs the 2011 setup to me feels better with regards to power and rotation. I'm really happy with how smooth the car idles, and I don't even notice the Synapse BOV thx to Buschur's tune (he assured me it'd be smooth; he's right). The differences being a Buschur tune on the engine this year and an ACD-tuning update in the ACD unit. Also different on this track were taller tires and a taller 4th gear as compared to May/2011 - both of which hurt my laptimes as the car was previously geared incredibly well for Putnam. With less speed on corner entry from the ****tier tires and the gearing changes I was actually forced to downshift twice more per lap to keep the turbo spinning. So factor in all those changes and running 1.3 seconds behind my blitzing 2011 time of 1:15.7 and I'm feeling pretty good about the car.

Sunday S1 (rubber & drifting vid):
http://youtu.be/NoJ-7ZV5I-M

Sunday S2 - backwards:
http://youtu.be/67Mjlo1c62A

 

More pics.

The last one is Hoops and I parked together. The one before than is me mounting up one of his super-big-assed tires to see how they'd fit (I didn't run them).

 

Ah, trying on the big shoes huh! Are we going to see some testing of 285?

 

Negative. I was curious how it looked. Same size rim as I've been running so I was pretty sure it'd physically bolt up and fit in the stock wheelwell, but I was curious (and had been ...)

I think I am going to get some new BFG's though. Their racing contingency is so much better than Hoosier. Hoosier really pulled things back this year. I'm debating on the R1 vs the newer R1S. A whole set will run about $330 cheaper than Hoosiers too.

 

I have a set of BFG's in a 285 that have 1 heat cycle on them. (about 5 laps on a 1 mile track). I could sell you them for fairly cheap. They are a bit wider it looks like.

 

I'd love to test them, but I simply don't have the pts to run them in TTA/PTA in that size.

And I don't feel like adding 120 lbs of ballast to run them in TTS/ST2 as compared to a 275.

 

Pulled the tires off the car last week after Putnam.... damn.

These tires spent 4 sessions Sat in the front (pic above). Then 2 sessions on Sunday pretty much doing the drift thing. While there's still tread left, they had nothing for grip. I'm happy about the even wear at least... and no cording (damn 255's cord constantly).

Anyways check them out:

 

There's been more talk this year about ACD Tuning. I've been one of the very skeptical ones. I know a few people jumped early on the Gruppe-S but the reviews were pretty spotty. Another player came to the fold last year here on the forums and we talked over the winter - ACD Tuning (http://www.acd-tuning.com/).

Overall I did not think it would do a hell of a lot, being that I have an upgraded Shep Rear Diff. But the car rotates more and easier now actually. It's not invasive and it's not just a drift-machine or anything crazy, it's just a progressive and predictable. And for someone like me with NO aero, it's helped things out.

Full Review: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ve...-929s-evo.html

 

what rotor is that and how many track days did you get on them before the crack? from the looks of the spider cracks, i run mine down to about that far and replace them. did it crack on track or in pit? i haven't haven't had rotors cracked on evo yet but had plenty crack in the s2000. about 4-6 track days and they all crack in the pit.

 

I don't think it has anything to do with the brand - but they are PowerSlot slotted and directionally veined, and are an offshoot of Stoptech. I've been using them for a couple years and went through 3 or 4 sets last year. I usually change them out the same time I change pads, although there's some life left still. Probably 7 event days of TT (which is brutal on them).

Overall I think the crack is collateral damage from my previous event. I had a caliper issue on the RF and it was leaking. This in turn caused the LF (the one that cracked) to try and work overtime to slow the car. I had people in the stands that weekend tell me I had a glowing rotor like the 2nd or 3rd lap of the race - so that info all matches up. After that weekend, when I pulled the rotors that LF was spider/heat-cracked pretty good and the RF was looking pretty good. Again, that all matches my theory.

 

mine would crack like that after 2 events. I ran the cheap Bumper-to-bumper rotors ($40ea) and could get about 4 big track events, 8-10 autocross events, plus 6-7k miles of street driving. That was with Carbotech XP12's, and about 300whp on a full weight evo 8.

 

i agree that it probably doesn't matter what brand. i've used centric premium from TR, cheap ebay $50 rotors, standard centric from rockauto. they all last about the same. my last set of ebay rotors lasted about 10 track days. but i don't drive hard for the entire 20-25 minutes session. usually do 2 warm up laps and end the session a little early so i can do a couple cool down laps. i don't run hard till the checker comes out and pull right in. i usually don't park the car till the rotors are below 500*

 

I disagree on brand to a certain degree. The cheap stuff it's obvious it's got a 90% chance of cracking sooner then later. I used to use powerslots along with a bunch of other guys I tracked with back in the day - even the Cryo ones - and they all failed before they were "done." When I switched to the 2 piece PF rotors, I NEVER had anything beyond the typical small spider cracks but never to the edge. The last pair up front was my original pair - 2 years of TT and Racing which was about 14 weekends worth. These AP's are doing even better in comparable time frames.

 

^ oh, i think we were talking about different brand of 1 piece rotors. obviously 2 piece rotors should be more superior.

i have run two piece rotors on the s2000 and they do last at least 4 times longer than OE blanks.