I found my fastest laps through T1/2 I would get back on the gas midway through T1 and carry a noticeable rear slip angle from there all the way through the exit of T2. I had partial throttle accel all the way through this section. If I set the car up right and modulate the rotation I could get the car pointed straight out of T2 earlier so I could go full throttle earlier.

 

Hey Nate, sorry to hear about the loss in your family. Feel free to email me if you have more questions. Hope all is well and good luck moving forward.

 

Found a few nice pics I wanted to share:

 

In an attempt to keep the braking system cooler, I've got a series of projects! With my next event being this weekend, here's what I did have time to undergo...

I pulled the caliper & rotor off. Then I unhooked and removed the dust shield, which I am planning to leave off. I've really only left them on as I've been worried about them protecting the ABS sensors. So taking the advice I've got, I wrapped the ABS sensor and lines in the DEI wrap that's frequently used for exhaust or header wrap. You wet it down, tack it in place and spray it with the associated spraycan.

Below is a pic of the nearly finished ABS line wrapped, coated, and ziptied up. If you follow it to the bottom, that is the location of the actual sensor which has a separate chunk of wrapping protecting it.

 

Uhh, maybe I'm not understanding things correctly, but I think you are on the wrong track.

THAT stuff is used to keep heat IN. That's why you would wrap it around an exhaust.

What I think the other guys were talking about using is the gold/silver foil stuff that reflects heat and will keep the heat from getting to the cable. . .

 

Negative, the cloth works both ways, basically preventing radiant heat from going in or out. The flimsy foil stuff is too flexible and won't stay in place on such a small moving object like a wire. I personally used the stuff meant for tubes/wires called firetube or something, same DEI material though, that'll last esp with the zip ties, or perhaps metal zip ties, depends.

 

Cool, good to know. I've just never seen the cloth used in this application.

Here is what I was thinking of.

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product

 

^^ Neat idea.

I'm personally more concerned with the sensor itself than the lines. But everything is wrapped and we'll see how it gets through a weekend of TT this weekend.

 

I'll see you there. This will be my first ever trip to Putnam Park.

 

Jarrod use this stuff. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr....asp?RecID=395 Super sticky and easy to use. That other stuff only says its good up to 500 degree?

 

The header wrap will work fine Nate. Jarrod the stuff you pointed out MELTS at high temps, it's plastic lining won't hold up. It's basic the normal plastic wire loom with shiny stuff on it. I'd recommend these:

http://www.designengineering.com/cat...eeve-tape-kits

http://www.designengineering.com/cat...fire-wrap-3000

We are a DEI dealer, if any of you need something hit me up and I'll try to hook you up with good pricing.

 

Yes, fire sleeve, that's what I meant . Now we need something genius for the bottom bushing...

 

David, both of those you posted up say only good for up to 500* direct heat too. Not saying they are not not better or won't work, just noting the wording of the add. I've never used any of them. If it were me I'd use the aluminized stuff

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product

or

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr....asp?RecID=395

The first one would be best for wires you can run through the tube. The wrap Jeremy posted up (second link) would be best for wires with large connectors that you can not fit through the fire tube.

I can't figure out the black silicone coated "fire hose" stuff. Although it has the insulation needed for direct heat sources, it doesn't seem like it would be able to withstand the same amount of radiant heat as the silver foil coated stuff. . .

As for the "bottom bushing" - are you talking about the ball joint? If so, here is what I have. . .

http://www.rhdjapan.com/moonface-bal...ow-guard-60216

 

I seem to go thru alot of ball joints. I never even thought about trying to stop the heat from getting to them.

That makes me wonder if i can just stick my tape around mine and make sorta the same thing that Jarrod just posted. Hmmm!

Sorry for hijacking your thread Nathan! lol

 

Whiteline ones should last at least 2 years. Moonface ones lasted me 6 months. . .

What are you running Nathan? OEM?