NASA TT rules question
On 245's in TTA, you will never keep up with the C5 Vette's. Nate pretty much worked out the blueprint to make an Evo a competitve TTA car, provided the driver is up to snuff. Check his blog and follow that example. Of course most of his records and wins were using the 255/35/18 Hoosier (which is actually the same size as the 275), but now NASA is on to that tire and you have to take 275 size points for it. The Vette boys were using it as well.
If you have not done the rear diff, you are probably well off TTA/S pace.
And on the cost thing, TTA is nearly as crazy as TTS if you ask me. People breaking out fresh sticker A6's almost every event.
If you have not done the rear diff, you are probably well off TTA/S pace.
And on the cost thing, TTA is nearly as crazy as TTS if you ask me. People breaking out fresh sticker A6's almost every event.
Yea I know, the darn thing doesn't rotate well enough.
fresh A6's every event? For a $20 Plaque?? You guys are nuts, I just want to play.
Nobody can really show you the right path. There are sooo many factors and alot is up to you. From the sound of your post you are doing things just fine.
I also can respect not wanting to sell your car. I have been building my car for 9 years and its a never ending thing. If you do things right you can have a car that can be fun and useful in many forms of motorsports. Build a car you can TT now and Rally when you get bored of that.
I also can respect not wanting to sell your car. I have been building my car for 9 years and its a never ending thing. If you do things right you can have a car that can be fun and useful in many forms of motorsports. Build a car you can TT now and Rally when you get bored of that.
Although I keep saying when I grow up I want to be a race car driver.
You know when I can easily afford it.I may do just that seeing as I really need more seat time before I justify fresh A6's at every event. Those guys need another hobby! I am beginning to consider a Production class rally car to use in TT. Then just as you said go rally it after I have get bored of that. More and more as I consider the playing field it seems like the best idea. If you guys have never looked at buying a built rally car its really kind of cool. The Rally community seem to just give away their old cars when they move up a class. I have seen cars on a trailer, spare parts car, 5 sets of wheels and tires, multiple transmissions, yada yada for like $5000! A steal when you consider it costs more then that for the just the cage and suspension.
Reaper, I am actually jealous of the 240sx TTE car, I miss my 240, I was looking for another one a while ago, and I know one day I will get another. I mostly like to drift in it though, I was getting pretty good at it when I had mine. Not very fast but the fun meter is off the charts. My favorite was doing the Michigan left turns (pretty much a hairpin), down shift to 2nd, turn in, kick the clutch, counter steer and hard on the throttle! LMAO
BTW: With the HP you are making, going to Hoosiers is really going to tax the brakes. Full race pads will be a must if you really start pushing it.
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
From: CA
Full race pads are a must anyways, also ducting even with street tires. These cars are pigs. I've only had my EVO out once and the brakes only lasted about half a run with dtc60's on NT05's but I didn't have ducting and I was running crappy centric rotors. No brakes at 130 sucks, I also should not have been trying to keep up with my friends race car in a for the most part stock EVO at the time. I don't know how it is in your regoin with NASA but in norcal you get hoosiers when you run TT, my friend I mentioned earlyer wins a whole set a weekend I think he has 18 free spares right now. Think he is in TTA.
Car already have brake ducts and I have DTC 70's for the track. I have charcoaled more then one set of pads and I do know how scary brake fade is! I have had my eye on a set of AP calipers for a while now.
I have charcoaled more then one set of pads and I do know how scary brake fade is! I have had my eye on a set of AP calipers for a while now.
Oh, I don't break out fresh A6's, I'm usually in the bottom half of TTS (for now). I am just having fun and learning. But the top TTA and TTS guys set a very high mark IF you want to be competitive.
BTW: With the HP you are making, going to Hoosiers is really going to tax the brakes. Full race pads will be a must if you really start pushing it.
BTW: With the HP you are making, going to Hoosiers is really going to tax the brakes. Full race pads will be a must if you really start pushing it.
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
From: CA
If your going to run r-comps in hpde's run NT-01's, they stay fast till they cord and are so much cheaper than R6's. We are getting 40-45 heat cycles out of them on a E36 M3 race car and usually putting down better times as they wear.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
I get it, when I finally get to go play I will run a set of R6's since they last longer and I can do more laps. When I get to the point that tires hold me back and I am able to put down a fast lap thats when I will consider the A6's. Until then I need to go up through the ranks of HPDE and really see what I am capable of.
Z1* / RS3 / NT05, NT01, RA1 -- then 888s, R/A6, RC/AC, C71s...
I would not get r-comps until you're deep into 3/4. They will hide/let you get away with a lot of mistakes that will slow you down. Wont spin; but you wont be fast. If you're fast on street tires; generally, you're fast on race tires. Skipping getting the most out of street tires will hold you back (seen it a lot as an instructor).
Z1* / RS3 / NT05, NT01, RA1 -- then 888s, R/A6, RC/AC, C71s...
Z1* / RS3 / NT05, NT01, RA1 -- then 888s, R/A6, RC/AC, C71s...
I just don't have any experience playing the pro version.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
I plan to burn through the *specs currently on the car first, then maybe try out the NT01's but I would like to get some experience with semi slick tires at some point. I definitely don't plan jumping the gun though. No need to spend the money until tires are whats holding me back from being faster. I understand how the game is played. I just don't have any experience playing the pro version.
I just don't have any experience playing the pro version.
I agree, the NT01's were a great bridge tire between the Star Specs and Hoosiers. And they hold up pretty well.
NT01's with 15+ heat cycles are also just as fast as R6's with 15+ heat cycles. Somehwere around 10-12 heat cycles, R6's go south in a hurry.
NT01's with 15+ heat cycles are also just as fast as R6's with 15+ heat cycles. Somehwere around 10-12 heat cycles, R6's go south in a hurry.
Cool. I think that is a good transition to more tire.
I agree, the NT01's were a great bridge tire between the Star Specs and Hoosiers. And they hold up pretty well.
WOW! Did I actually say something that makes sense and smart people agree with?!? I must be getting wiser with age!
