Buschur Baffled Modified OEM Oil Pan Question
Before this escalates further, Balrok's post has already answered the question. Some are flat, some aren't. The shops who install them a lot, know what to check, and how to get them to seal. We've had a few folks who track them here in the NW, with no issues due to ER , West Werks etc. having done enough of them to be familiar with installing them correctly. I have this piece on my car as well (installed by ER), just didn't want to chime in since I haven't tracked the car since getting it...and i've only had it for about 8 months with no leaks.
Last edited by codgi; Jun 9, 2013 at 09:51 AM.
That is good to hear. I can sleep a little easier now. Just gotta make sure its lined up, properly sealed with sufficient sealant and it should be good to go. Measure 3 times, install once.
Pretty much. One's going on my car as we speak as well, the installer's first 1 had some minor leaks a few years back but he figured out what to do to remedy it. I'm assuming since people are doing "less" to remedy it these days the QC has improved since RT's install. But ya, is it a sexy piece. Almost didn't wanna get oil all over it
.
.
As a consumer I will try to be informed about the products I purchase. If a company has had multiple complaints, I will stay clear of those products and provide others with the fruits of my research. If I buy a part that is advertised of "bolting in," I expect it to bolt in. Not, require machine work or fabrication to get it to line up correctly.
Granted, with all things, it is the internet and trusting any single person or anecdote is a bad idea. However, general trends or reviews would seem to point a better picture than blindly purchasing the equipment. I was also at R/TErnie's place checking out his build and seeing about him doing some stuff for me when he told me the pan was a "giant piece of ****", "a terrible mistake to have purchased," "it doesn't fit with anything," etc. Granted, he was probably still a bit frustrated at having to go through all the work of getting it to fit right.
I believe Eric did provide some feedback to Moroso at SEMA. It was along the lines of "your pan fits like ****."
Did anyone previously inform Moroso that their pan fit like **** or write a review so that they could correct it? If no one makes their issues public, then how will the manufacturer know to make corrections or be pressured to make corrections?
Just a quick update. I decided to keep the Buschur Baffled Oil Pan and not go with the AMS Wet Sump Oil Pan. Saves me $680 + "installation". I also went with the Moroso 3qt accusump and the Kiggly HLA Pressure Regulator.
I was reading the epic build thread of R/Ternie and his nightmare issues with the AMS oil pan and got completely turned off. He had to modify and Frankenstein it like 10 times and still fit like **** and leak. So no thanks. Not worth the hassle.
I was reading the epic build thread of R/Ternie and his nightmare issues with the AMS oil pan and got completely turned off. He had to modify and Frankenstein it like 10 times and still fit like **** and leak. So no thanks. Not worth the hassle.
... and using a straw man like that makes you sound just as ridiculous.
As a consumer I will try to be informed about the products I purchase. If a company has had multiple complaints, I will stay clear of those products and provide others with the fruits of my research. If I buy a part that is advertised of "bolting in," I expect it to bolt in. Not, require machine work or fabrication to get it to line up correctly.
Granted, with all things, it is the internet and trusting any single person or anecdote is a bad idea. However, general trends or reviews would seem to point a better picture than blindly purchasing the equipment. I was also at R/TErnie's place checking out his build and seeing about him doing some stuff for me when he told me the pan was a "giant piece of ****", "a terrible mistake to have purchased," "it doesn't fit with anything," etc. Granted, he was probably still a bit frustrated at having to go through all the work of getting it to fit right.
I believe Eric did provide some feedback to Moroso at SEMA. It was along the lines of "your pan fits like ****."
Did anyone previously inform Moroso that their pan fit like **** or write a review so that they could correct it? If no one makes their issues public, then how will the manufacturer know to make corrections or be pressured to make corrections?
As a consumer I will try to be informed about the products I purchase. If a company has had multiple complaints, I will stay clear of those products and provide others with the fruits of my research. If I buy a part that is advertised of "bolting in," I expect it to bolt in. Not, require machine work or fabrication to get it to line up correctly.
Granted, with all things, it is the internet and trusting any single person or anecdote is a bad idea. However, general trends or reviews would seem to point a better picture than blindly purchasing the equipment. I was also at R/TErnie's place checking out his build and seeing about him doing some stuff for me when he told me the pan was a "giant piece of ****", "a terrible mistake to have purchased," "it doesn't fit with anything," etc. Granted, he was probably still a bit frustrated at having to go through all the work of getting it to fit right.
I believe Eric did provide some feedback to Moroso at SEMA. It was along the lines of "your pan fits like ****."
Did anyone previously inform Moroso that their pan fit like **** or write a review so that they could correct it? If no one makes their issues public, then how will the manufacturer know to make corrections or be pressured to make corrections?
I will repeat this again. In the 6+ AMS/Moroso oil pans I have personally seen installed, there have been no issue with fit or finish. R/TErnie's issue seems to be a perfectly justifiable statistical anomaly given how this product is manufactured. Sucks that he had so many problems with it and this instance seems to have completely ruined the reputation of a very well engineered product.
Just a quick update. I decided to keep the Buschur Baffled Oil Pan and not go with the AMS Wet Sump Oil Pan. Saves me $680 + "installation". I also went with the Moroso 3qt accusump and the Kiggly HLA Pressure Regulator.
I was reading the epic build thread of R/Ternie and his nightmare issues with the AMS oil pan and got completely turned off. He had to modify and Frankenstein it like 10 times and still fit like **** and leak. So no thanks. Not worth the hassle.
I was reading the epic build thread of R/Ternie and his nightmare issues with the AMS oil pan and got completely turned off. He had to modify and Frankenstein it like 10 times and still fit like **** and leak. So no thanks. Not worth the hassle.
All of that pretty much was answered in the oil pressure thread already in this section, should likely be sticky'd. KevinD had the most recent data showing that the buschur pan made the pressure loss less, but not enough to be called "safe". The AMS pan however seemed to have helped significantly which his data showed. Then there are a few guys who took it a step further and added the 3 qt accusump. All is fine and good, but on the right track in the right conditions some still see pressure drop pretty low.
The ONLY solution if you really want to kill this particular threat is a dry sump. Hands down. All others are limited by the fact that our exhaust runs directly through the pan unlike others. Tons of arguments again covered pretty much already in that thread. As with any mod at this level, it's only as good as your budget.
The ONLY solution if you really want to kill this particular threat is a dry sump. Hands down. All others are limited by the fact that our exhaust runs directly through the pan unlike others. Tons of arguments again covered pretty much already in that thread. As with any mod at this level, it's only as good as your budget.
I ran the Buschur baffled pan the last year in my track evo - both for NASA TT and NASA Sprint races. As stated the temps and pressures were better. Not constant but I wasn't expecting that w/o a drysump setup.
Before it I was running AMSOIL 10w30 and started to see some bearing wear. I upped it to 15w50 and that wear went away. This was evidenced by oil analysis reports. If you search my ID you'll find a huge thread about AMSOIL and my experiences with it. This was primarily on a 350-375whp Evo - stock turbo; stock cams, stock engine. 100oct.
Bottom line with the Buschur baffled pan - I was happy with it. Not an expensive upgrade.
Last edited by boomn29; Jun 25, 2013 at 07:30 AM.
Has anyone cleaned up the casting flaws in the cylinder head to improve drain back? Never got around to it before crashing the car, but we felt there was huge room for improvement there.
Dan
Dan
Someone could send an email to AMS asking them if they do that on their AMS2.3RR or other race engines...
So after reading a few threads it seems like there are a few must have's for track days when on R-comps/RS3's or better.
Baffled pan
5 qt of some quality 20/50 oil
Kiggly HLA pressure regulator
Setrab or bigger oil cooler ( does anyone remember the name of the core that setrab is relabeling,There is a thread somewhere about it)
The Tomei oil temp thermostat killer doesn't seem like it would help because once you have a lap or two in the oil temp is over 170. Unless there is a flow concern with the stock thermostat. Does anyone have a good data on that?
Not to high jack this thread but when is the stock radiator a problem with road courses? Is there a recommended HP limit for it? What is the best radiator to replace it with?
Baffled pan
5 qt of some quality 20/50 oil
Kiggly HLA pressure regulator
Setrab or bigger oil cooler ( does anyone remember the name of the core that setrab is relabeling,There is a thread somewhere about it)
The Tomei oil temp thermostat killer doesn't seem like it would help because once you have a lap or two in the oil temp is over 170. Unless there is a flow concern with the stock thermostat. Does anyone have a good data on that?
Not to high jack this thread but when is the stock radiator a problem with road courses? Is there a recommended HP limit for it? What is the best radiator to replace it with?










