Let me preface my question by stating a few things. I want only people who HPDE/Race/Track/ Time Attack/Time Trial their evo lap after lap after lap to respond. So if you are a autox'er or drag racer, etc or driving your dailly evo hard, please don't repond. My reason is because it is a SPECIFIC question regarding the baffled oil pan and need opinions of people who actually run it like I do. I apologize in advance. I just need to weed out those group of people for their opinions.

My question: Do you guys run into any issues running this baffled oil pan? You can talk about type of oil used, oil weight, oil pressures, oil temperatures, bearing wear, oil starvation, etc...whatever you want that is worth noting. Please state exactly what you use your evo for, what tracks you see, your power levels, what turbo (journal bearing/ball bearing), stock motor/built motor (2.0l, 2.1l 2.2l, 2.3l, 2.4l), what fuel, what tires you run, what kind of weather you see, actual data like oil temps etc. Do you have an upgraded oil cooler, if so what kind. Do you run an accusump, if so what kind?

Basically I am trying to gauge whether this is sufficient for road racing and if it causes any issues if any or if there is a downside to running it.

I know about the issue of consecutive high G(1.3G+) right hand corners causing oil starvation issues from low oil pressures under 30psi or so. Does this baffled oil pan solve it, is it a bandaid, etc?

Thank you all in advance. Please stay on topic. Also please read the entire post before posting.

All of that pretty much was answered in the oil pressure thread already in this section, should likely be sticky'd. KevinD had the most recent data showing that the buschur pan made the pressure loss less, but not enough to be called "safe". The AMS pan however seemed to have helped significantly which his data showed. Then there are a few guys who took it a step further and added the 3 qt accusump. All is fine and good, but on the right track in the right conditions some still see pressure drop pretty low.

The ONLY solution if you really want to kill this particular threat is a dry sump. Hands down. All others are limited by the fact that our exhaust runs directly through the pan unlike others. Tons of arguments again covered pretty much already in that thread. As with any mod at this level, it's only as good as your budget.

Thanks for the response. Can you post that link you are referring to. So in future when people find this thread they can go to that thread. Meanwhile, I will try to look for that thread and post it myself if I find it.

There are also some people that have made their own custom oil pan. Sort of like the AMS pan.

Balrok is correct. KevinD did some back to back comparisons between stock, Buschur baffled. I don't think we have any recorded logs from the AMS pan that were saved.

Results:
Stock - Terrible with any kind of sticky tire.
Buschur - Much improved! But the small baffled section would run out of oil on VERY long sweepers (which we experience often in the NASA Texas tracks)
AMS - Super duper best ever! We pretty much mandate them for any and every Evo that has the potential to be on sticky tires. Lots of logical engineering and experience went into this design and it shows. Get yourself a Kiggly HLA and the AMS pan and your worries will melt away.

It's hard asking a question like this with vendor status (because sometimes people will accuse you of flaming a vendor), but I have heard or read of issues with improper sealing of the AMS/Moroso unit (that it leaks). Has anyone had experience with this, or seen this issue? I'd like to know. Because it seems like a good option, potential sealing issues aside...

Seems the QC at Moroso isn't exactly Mitsu factory grade, like any mass produced part, so you have to massage it some and use good goop and let it dry completely.

I'll post this for reference. I am really thinking of doing the AMS pan or something.

This is using the Amsoil Dominator oil, and filling the pan just a touch over the full mark.

note from 1000-2000ft distance mark:

This is the installer's fault. The pans are super nice and extremely well made. All of the leaks I have ever heard of were because the installer rushed and smeared the sealant. Yes, you have to be generous to ensure a good seal, but the flange is flat. Of course, you also have to be 100% sure that all the old sealant has been conpletely removed.

I have seen a half dozen of these pans installed with zero leak issues. It is all about the installer.

You can see in R/TErnie's thread when he installed his, he checked how flat it was... it wasn't flat. There are pictures.

Can you define "sticky tire"? Are we talking sticky summer tires, IE RS3, Rival and the like, or more like race tires?

And the holes didn't line up

As Todd said, I did a group buy on these for our local road racers. We installed 6 of them, and not a single one leaks. I've also installed several others over the years and still haven't had one leak.

"Oh man! It happened once on the Internet! I saw it! Must mean that every single part is complete trash!"

Did you see what I did there? This is why I love Internet forums. I assume these parts are hand made. One bad apple doesn't surprise me. Hopefully, R/TErnie contacted AMS about the poor quality and they fixed the problem.

100% of the pans that I have seen, with my own eyes, have been flawless. Yes, they are hard to install. But the part performs exceptionally well.

I was referring to race tires. Something Hoosier R6 or higher. That isn't to say that a street R-comp (like an NT01 or R888) may not produce similar results, just not on the extreme scale.