It's not just a hp limit as much as a conditions limit. How hot is it? How long of sessions are you running? Power? Oil cooling efficiency (read high capacity pan/oil cooler etc), how high are you rev'ing the motor? Etc

Best radiators seem to be cbrd double pass race radiators, and also using heat reflective wrap (gold stuff) on head facing the turbo/cam sensor/all cold side piping/etc, turbo blanket, and heat wrap (headers/exhaust).

Not as much a one part thing as a system of heat control

 

i think 20w50 is overkill, ive been running amsoil 10w40 high zinc without issue. after my 60k service the shop put in 5w30 brad penn i think, and id get a flickering oil light coming to a stop clutched in on the street in 80+ degrees. that doesnt happen with the 10w40.

changing my radiator cap (brand new stock) made a noticeable difference in the level in my overflow tank after a track session, and the dash needle sits lower.

last weekend was the first time ive had oil temps (measured in the pan) rise above 190. it was 80ish degrees out and a little humid combined with an instructor flogging my car and then hot pitting to switch drivers. it was a tad above 200 on pit in and sitting still let it climb to about 220. once moving it dropped at least 10degrees.

there is a heat reflective tape called aerolite that is >90% reflective, while the gold stuff is something like 40% reflective. ill be wrapping some stuff with it soon. oil cooler is the big piece of the puzzle for next season.

 

I think because of the work involved, not many people go this route. Everyone has concerns about oil pooling in the head, but don't put much consideration into getting the oil out of the head and back down to the pan. If you look into the oil drain backs, there are a decent amount of casting flaws that block return flow. We've never done the testing, but believe a lot of oil concerns would be solved by cleaning up the blockages.

Dan

 

I have a Moroso/AMS pan, and my only real complaints with it are very small. Mine was installed by English Racing up here in the NW, and I only run sticky slicks during road race events. I went with the pan because of the right hand starvation problems we all know and love (hate). My pan doesn't leak at all. The biggest complaint is how deep it sits in the car, making it effectively and easily the lowest part of the vehicle, not to mention it doesn't fit with (stock) installation of their own products they sell (APR splitter anyone?) I have a build thread (sorta) about mine, and even with it lowered 3" from how AMS suggests to install it, it was tight up to the oil pan. Other than that, it doesn't leak. Its like the previous comments, a 1 off that got over publicised for poor fittament.

 

Lets presume the following conditions.
90*
30 minutes
420whp FP red 100 oct/ETS 3.5
Stock pan/stock rad
6500rpm
RS-3 tires

Does this seem doable for a 3.5 mile course?

I will look into the gold tape.

 

IMO you'll be fine. If you're doing lapping/non-competitive stuff, I would do a cool down lap after a few hot laps to give everything a little break.

 

I ran similar power in 20 min sessions with no problems on street tires. I do take my car to 8k though, quite often due to the layout of Portland Int'l Raceway though. I find my car is RARELY below 6k when I'm pushing it. I haven't been at 421 HP without slicks and the oilpan. I bought my first set at the same time as the pan for safety.