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Buschur Baffled Modified OEM Oil Pan Question

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Old May 31, 2013 | 05:13 PM
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Buschur Baffled Modified OEM Oil Pan Question

Posted this in the motorsports section as well. Just in case if I missed anybody or if people don't frequent the Motorsports section. Or you can just go there and respond.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...l#post10830346

Let me preface my question by stating a few things. I want only people who HPDE/Race/Track/ Time Attack/Time Trial their evo lap after lap after lap to respond. So if you are a autox'er or drag racer, etc or driving your dailly evo hard, please don't repond. My reason is because it is a SPECIFIC question regarding the baffled oil pan and need opinions of people who actually run it like I do. I apologize in advance. I just need to weed out those group of people for their opinions.

My question: Do you guys run into any issues running this baffled oil pan? You can talk about type of oil used, oil weight, oil pressures, oil temperatures, bearing wear, oil starvation, etc...whatever you want that is worth noting. Please state exactly what you use your evo for, what tracks you see, your power levels, what turbo (journal bearing/ball bearing), stock motor/built motor (2.0l, 2.1l 2.2l, 2.3l, 2.4l), what fuel, what tires you run, what kind of weather you see, actual data like oil temps etc. Do you have an upgraded oil cooler, if so what kind. Do you run an accusump, if so what kind?

Basically I am trying to gauge whether this is sufficient for road racing and if it causes any issues if any or if there is a downside to running it.

I know about the issue of consecutive high G(1.3G+) right hand corners causing oil starvation issues from low oil pressures under 30psi or so. Does this baffled oil pan solve it, is it a bandaid, etc?

Thank you all in advance. Please stay on topic. Also please read the entire post before posting.
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Old May 31, 2013 | 05:40 PM
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BR baffled pan is just the same as the JUN baffled pan. the only difference is, the JUN cost a fortune.

it pools the oil up at the oil pickup tube keeping it better submersed so yes it definitely works.

it is just better baffled around the oil pickup tube.

i'm not what you asked, but since i had both pans in my posession side by side i responded anyways.

ultimately the best solution is a dry sump system but it cost a lot more money. I think the br pan will get you by if you want me to be honest.
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Old May 31, 2013 | 06:54 PM
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Baffled oil sump is a band-aid for anything over 1.0 lateral G-force in RH turns.
Accusump is a band-aid.

You may get away with non dry sumped engine if you have LH tracks.

Best solution - Dry sump.

Few Options:
AMS - http://blog.amsperformance.com/2009/...y-sump-system/
Magnus - http://magnusmotorsports.com/product...sump-full-kit/
Norris Designs - http://www.norrisdesigns.com/dry-sump.asp

IMO I think the Norris design is the best, and price is good too.
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Old May 31, 2013 | 08:18 PM
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you can't ask for a better response than what RSMike just said. He clearly did his homework. I agree the Norris Design is really good, and when i was researching into dry sumps thats what one i thought was the best also.
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 07:23 AM
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I dont like the fact that you have to give up your A/C to run this
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 08:17 AM
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just curious. has anyone ever built one thier own dry sump?
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Blue Evo 8
I dont like the fact that you have to give up your A/C to run this
is there a dry sup that allows you to keep you a/c?
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by TougeGod7
is there a dry sup that allows you to keep you a/c?

Anyone one of those above, and just roll the window down.

-Nothing wrong with sweating a little, its good for ya
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 11:33 AM
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Btw, I do have the Buschur baffled oil pan, but it seems like I need something more effective. I don't really have the budget for the $3500+ dry sump after installation.

I might just go with the AMS Performance Wet Sump Oil Pan + Moroso 3qt Oil Accumulator aka Accusump. $1050shipped w/o Electronic Kit. $1275shipped with electronic valve Kit.

Can someone explain how the electronic Valve Kit work. I read the description on AMS website, but still don't see how it works. Do I just turn in it on before startup and leave it on when the car is on the whole time? And shut it off after I shut the car off? Or will the manual valve be better. Open it up before start up? Turn it off after shutting down?

Last edited by Pure EvoIX; Jun 2, 2013 at 02:58 PM.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 12:05 PM
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Maybe I will couple that setup with the Kiggly Racing - HLA Pressure Regulator. I use 15w-50 Amsoil Dominator for reference. In 90deg heat, I see 280F+ oil temps after one hot lap. For tires I use Nitto Nt01 275/40/17s with front and rear aero. Lateral Gs i am in the 1.2-1.4G range.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 01:40 PM
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Doesn't the AMS pan with the rear kick out and rear sump plus higher capacity and flappers work best for road racing?
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 01:53 PM
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Ahh I misread since you said AMSOIL instead of AMS I didn't realize we were talking about the same thing.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 02:57 PM
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No, you are correct. I was mistaken. I meant to say AMS Performance NOT AMSOIL when i was referring to the wetsump. lol. I'll correct it so other people won't get confused.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Pure EvoIX
I don't really have the budget for the $3500+ dry sump after installation.
Do you have a budget for another engine when yours is damaged from oil surge?

Do it right first time, and buy a dry sump.
Do it wrong the first time, buy a new engine and a dry sump.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 05:13 PM
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I didn't see anything about what oil pressures you are seeing. Have you been monitoring them?

I see your oil temps get pretty high, are you using an oil cooler?

I plan on doing track days and road racing so I had my oil pan modified by Buschur and I am using the kiggly HLA. These are really band aids but I think the Kiggly HLA will help you since it will keep more oil in your pan and then the baffle in the pan will be more effective.


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