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Buschur Baffled Modified OEM Oil Pan Question

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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 09:22 PM
  #16  
batty200's Avatar
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Originally Posted by RSMike
Do you have a budget for another engine when yours is damaged from oil surge?

Do it right first time, and buy a dry sump.
Do it wrong the first time, buy a new engine and a dry sump.
What do you mean oil surge? I don't believe too much oil pressure would hurt you.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 10:26 PM
  #17  
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I remember reading about a guy who was competing in some racing series and lost engines all season do to oiling problems. Finally, one of his competitors told him that all he had to do is run an extra quart of oil. Now, I have never read where anyone had figured out how much oil you can put into the Evo engine before it gets into the crank so you would probably have to figure it out yourself. On the other hand, there's probably hundreds of oil pans you can buy for 350 Chevys in all sort of configurations and volumes. Maybe weld something up for your Evo.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 11:31 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by batty200
What do you mean oil surge? I don't believe too much oil pressure would hurt you.
What I meant by oil surge is when you go around corners too fast for a wet sump system and the oil pickup gulps air rather than oil, causing the oil pressure to drop and dip.

This causes bearing wear, and damage to the oil pump and journal bearing turbo.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 11:47 PM
  #19  
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good info in here. This is making me think alot. The problem is, i really really don't have any more money to blow at this moment. Which sucks. And i know what you are saying. Spend the money now vs spending more money later. Problem is I really don't have any more money now. Not that I don't want to, it's literally i don't have it. lol.

Story was I spent money on a rebuild 2 months ago, and engine died after 1 track day. Absolutely nothing to do with oil pressures. It is getting rebuilt completely.
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 06:41 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Pure EvoIX
Btw, I do have the Buschur baffled oil pan, but it seems like I need something more effective. I don't really have the budget for the $3500+ dry sump after installation.

I might just go with the AMS Performance Wet Sump Oil Pan + Moroso 3qt Oil Accumulator aka Accusump. $1050shipped w/o Electronic Kit. $1275shipped with electronic valve Kit.

Can someone explain how the electronic Valve Kit work. I read the description on AMS website, but still don't see how it works. Do I just turn in it on before startup and leave it on when the car is on the whole time? And shut it off after I shut the car off? Or will the manual valve be better. Open it up before start up? Turn it off after shutting down?
I've been running a stock pan and an Accusump from Canton Racing Products. For a while. When I called and talked to Canton Racing Products they suggested getting a better pan while using the Accusump even though they don't sell one. Their reasoning was that the pan will prevent most of the starvation and the Accusump will pick up the rest. The reason they did not suggest using just the Accusump is because they claim the Accusump should almost be just an emergency back up system. It's there when you really need it but you don't want to need it constantly because it's a last line of defense.

Either way I went with a Manual Valve because mine is mounted in the cab so I can just reach over and open the valve. They also explained the valves to me but I didn't want to go with that yet. Canton said they have a few different electric valve options. One is just an open close valve which acts like a manual valve but allows you to remotely mount the Accusump and use a toggle switch to turn it on and off. The other valves have pressure switches that help to prevent the Accusump from discharging until you get to a certain pressure. I guess that helps keep the most oil in the Accusump for when you hit a section of the track that you will have sustained oil pressure loss. Canton was really knowledgeable about the stuff but didn't really pressure me either way even though I went the cheaper route. I think I spoke to Bob. Might we worth giving them a call.
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 09:53 AM
  #21  
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This is what the accusump is designed to counter. It will prevent this to a degree and is relatively cheap insurance. However frequent oil starvation will kill oil pumps so if the engine survives and you end up going through oil pumps then the situation is critical because you have frequent starvation.
Originally Posted by RSMike
What I meant by oil surge is when you go around corners too fast for a wet sump system and the oil pickup gulps air rather than oil, causing the oil pressure to drop and dip.

This causes bearing wear, and damage to the oil pump and journal bearing turbo.
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 04:14 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by batty200
This is what the accusump is designed to counter. It will prevent this to a degree and is relatively cheap insurance. However frequent oil starvation will kill oil pumps so if the engine survives and you end up going through oil pumps then the situation is critical because you have frequent starvation.
Yup for sure.
I have an accusump and still run into "oil surge" problems.
It's just a bandaid for a severed limb.
You'll get oil pump housing aluminium getting pumped through your engine too.

Originally Posted by Pure EvoIX
Story was I spent money on a rebuild 2 months ago, and engine died after 1 track day. Absolutely nothing to do with oil pressures. It is getting rebuilt completely.
What caused your engine problems?
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 05:28 PM
  #23  
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pmed you!
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 06:33 PM
  #24  
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I wonder if a deeper pan and an extended pickup would do??
If you had 1-2 more quarts of oil and a deeper sump area for the oil to accumulate in and a pickup that was lower.....do you think that would help? Or, would that pan have to be narrower at that added lower part in order to keep the oil level stable in that area and keep the pickup fully submersed? Looks like AMS did this with there oil pan/pickup.

How well does this pan work?
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 10:06 PM
  #25  
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Zhong DO NOT get the electric valve. The valve is split so you won't get full flow compared to the manual ball valve...

As for me, I opted for the AMS pan due to it being baffled, having a trap door and holding 1.5 quarts of more oil... I also had a Kiggly HLA installed...

As you know I haven't hit the track yet to test anything but I am positive it's in the right direction...
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 01:20 AM
  #26  
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Hey Matt, I swear someone told me you had a dry-sump kit on your car. Someone who also tracks, but the name escapes me. Glad we are both on the same page.
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 04:52 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by o-townFLA
Zhong DO NOT get the electric valve. The valve is split so you won't get full flow compared to the manual ball valve...

As for me, I opted for the AMS pan due to it being baffled, having a trap door and holding 1.5 quarts of more oil... I also had a Kiggly HLA installed...

As you know I haven't hit the track yet to test anything but I am positive it's in the right direction...

How is your AMS pan sealing? I hear the fitment and leak issues through the sealing area are common. Could this be due to the stud and nut they use, is reusing the oem bolts a better idea?
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 03:13 PM
  #28  
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So long as you use pretty much an entire tube of sealant when you put it on, it will seal fine. They take the time to belt sand the flange smooth, but it's nowhere near true and flat
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 05:08 PM
  #29  
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I just installed the motor last week and haven't added oil to the motor yet... So no telling if it'll leak or not...

Jacks Transmission built my 2.3 and installed the AMS oil pan and Kiggly HLA







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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 08:16 PM
  #30  
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Nice pan. Looks like the trick then is to spread on the rtv pretty thick.

Off topic, but thanks for those engine pics. Im putting my engine together and those are nice pics for reference.
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