Yeah, but for those that have them it would be a fairly simple fix if they had to pull it off and take it to a machine shop to have the flange trued. If the pan worked well and fixed the problem this would be one solution. IMO.

 

Dave, if you and some other people pulling high Gs have not had any issues with oil pressure why have other people? If there wasn't any issues with the OEM pan why would you make a modified pan? I based my purchase upon what I have read, a lot of it from your thread about your pan.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l-control.html

I can't speak for anyone else but I am interested in trying to correct the problem before I am replacing a motor. This is why I purchased your modification to my OEM pan as well as the crank scrapper and Kiggly HLA in this little rebuild I am doing. I plan on doing track days and road racing with the car and I would rather spend a few hundred now than possibly spend thousands later. Even if I am not pulling high Gs I would rather have the added insurance for the small expense.

 

I will just say there are multiple ways of skinning a cat. There could be 4 correct ways out there. just because one works, doesn't mean the other ways don't. Also 1 person could have an issue with one way, and another can have an issue with another way. There could be 20 people who won't have any issues with either way. There will be variance of good luck and bad luck with each method. It's never ever 100% guaranteed as the circumstances will always be different. Food for thought. Not directed at anyone. Thinking out loud.

 

I'm just adding information, there are many ways to to fix any problem.

 

I just tore down my stock engine(at 115k miles, first 110k completely stock, last 5k not so much) and it showed signs of oil starvation on the rod bearings. I've tracked it about 5 times so far(at about 400whp on 255 nt01's if thats relevant...).

I am running a Buschur pan now, I doubt I'll ever pull the bearings unless something warrants it, but I don't think I'll have too much problem either. I'll be logging oil pressure this round out.

 

Does the crank scrapper work with the AMS oil pan? Can anyone confirm?

 

AMS pan includes a crank scraper.

 

Except I've seen oil pans that still leak, even after being trued up.

And I would think that providing a flat surface that won't leak is the least that a manufacturer can do. Naive, I know.

 

Just a quick update. I decided to keep the Buschur Baffled Oil Pan and not go with the AMS Wet Sump Oil Pan. Saves me $680+"installation". I also went with the Moroso 3qt accusump and the Kiggly HLA Pressure Regulator.

I was reading the epic build thread of R/Ternie and his nightmare issues with the AMS oil pan and got completely turned off. He had to modify and Frankenstein it like 10 times and still fit like **** and leak. So no thanks. Not worth the hassle.

 

Zhong I have a brand new crank scrapper for sale...


And 500 miles with no leaks... Yea....

 

i went with:

- buschur pan
- crank scraper
- kiggly hla
- run 1/2 quart high

i've got no data to backup its effectiveness, but it seems like a reasonable combo at a reasonable price. i suggest that you wire up an oil pressure sensor that you can log, and watch it like a hawk while testing the g-force limits. its not hard to upgrade to the ams pan it turns out to be needed.

 

I have previously had issues with oil gushing out of my dip stick under accel... Is this not an issue with your setup Fred? I do run the STM vented tube... Did.. When it gushed out I went back to stock to stop it

 

i thought i'd run similar to this, minus running the oil "high" - shouldn't the hla take care of any issues though with the rest of what u're running?

 

Correct, not an issue.

I think the 1/2 quart is just an extra bit of insurance for keeping the pickup covered.

 

I'm looking to run the Buschur piece and a crank scraper for peace of mind.

Is Cosworth the only option for a stock bottom end?